docc

I think it gives the Bandit a fine "stance!" Especially with the painted frame color. Bandits, otherwise, have always looked top-heavy to my eye. V11? I suppose they look heavy all over; like a husky chick on high heels: lotsa fun, but ya best be careful!

Good on ya, Cap'n! I'd love to see it in person; bet the photos can't capture it.

Cross posted this on the picture thread in "Motha of all V11 Forums . . ."

The Skeeve Spring Swap !

South'n (Cal) Spine Raid!!

Discussion about the forums functionality are in "Motha of All V11 Forums . . ." This one in the thread The registration Challenge Question.

Ok, yeah, I found that in the factory assembly of my right fork cartridge. It was not seated in the bottom had a 1/4" (6mm) of play from delivery. Fixing that was one of the great "ah-HAH!" moments of fettling the V11. Fitting the correct springs, using lighter fork oils, and using the 100mm air gap (starting point) have all been brilliant.

I don't have an actual "bucket list" but if I did, touring the South Island of NZ on a bike would be on it. I've been to the North Island a couple times - stunningly beautiful. Now that would make for a proper South'n Spine Raid!! Gloves on the valve covers! How many of us have done that!

Wait! What? It never rains in Southern California! Th' girls only warn ya . . .

I was thinking (hoping) maybe we found the mysterious difference why some (later) V11 can be greased and the early ones are near impossible. Maybe not. My measurements are +/- 2 to 3 mm. I suppose the 2002 change in frame/length has to make the difference.

"Glove warmers?" You have heated handgrips? These are not original equipment on any V11. Watch your power draw at various rpm so as not to arrive with warm hands, but go no further . . . I was ok with heated gloves (Gerbings), but not gloves aaaaaand a jacket - too many watts to the wind! This time of year, for a lot of us, the fun begins here:

No way that would go on my early Sport. I wonder if Guzzi simply shortened the protective collar at some point. Mine looks to be about 65 mm long from the gearbox back. At the protective guard's most lateral side outboard, it looks about 13 mm from the swingarm.

I've never thought of trying to get at it through that gap from in front of the pork chop and swing arm. Scud's outside the box.

30 to 87 simply carries current through to the Run Switch without energizing the coil, yes? I try to spray some electronics cleaner up into the sidestand switch and coat it over with Petroleum jelly, but I never feel like it really does anything. AFAIR, no one has ever dissected the sidestand switch to consider its innards and remediation options . . .

All good medicine, again, Kiwi_Roy! Just a comment to try and clarify the two circuits that power the "Run Switch" - The power to run while underway comes through the Sidestand Switch (which seems pretty vulnerable down there on the leading edge in the spray), OR Relay #3 (center relay) that I prefer to call the "Neutral Relay" since it is energized by the Neutral Switch for power to run while the stand is down and the gearbox is in neutral. So, have you bypassed the Sidestand switch (connected the wires together)and simply removed Relay#3 ?

That'll work! I like using zinc plated, flat braided copper with soldered connections (all cozy in heat shrink) to ward off breaks from vibration, especially in a wire that short between engine and frame. Be sure to clean the paint off under the bolt head, maybe use a "star" washer for bite, and paste it all over with petroleum jelly. That last part may be optional in Southern California . . .)

Zooter is The Search Monster

The main earth leaves the battery and follows the tube of the seat subframe down to attach to the top right of the gearbox inboard of the seat latch release. That and the terminal stack directly on the battery are the primary grounds (earths). Adding one from the regulator case to the timing chest is a must. I ran mine to the spine frame and one from there to the engine. Others are more familiar with your regulator, but I recall one poster eliminated his 30 amp fuse and soldered the wires together. I ended up with a MAXI fuse in that location after repeated failures (charred, burned blades and melting, but not blown) of the standard ATC fuse, both in the factory fuse holder and in an external holder.

Thanks, Bjorn! I'll move this over to the "How To . . ." subforum as the comments settle down. When doing this for the first time, I had to remove the internal cartridge from the bottom of the fork leg and discovered a set screw inserted from the inboard side of the lower fork housing. It does not appear in any of the diagrams we looked at in those days for the early Marzocchi of 1999-2002.

I'm no expert on this, but I can see them (of course, they're my pics). Anyone have a solution? Browser settings? OS compatibility?

This is a god question for the Admins in "Motha of All V11 Forums . . . " I'll cross post it there so we can all revisit the photo protocol that works best for the form.

Pathognomonic poetry! "Honestly, the "darking" of the underseat area does feel a little silly. But I nearly stabbed myself on the tool tray bolt (which was WAY to long) so it had to be replaced, then all the through-bolts from the parts I was actually trying to darken (passenger pegs, fender, etc.), and I had the battery tray off to get the CF fender installed correctly and what do you know... down the slippery slope, facilitated by the fact that I have easy access to a wall full of inexpensive black bolts. It's sort of a game to see how many matching black fasteners they will have." I think I speak for all of us here, on the same ward, that we are happy to share treatment recommendations and secret remedies. Cure? You've got to be kidding!

I didn't want to name any names . . .

While I can see the pics above by JBBenson, I can't find any images on all the links on the old 2004 threads. Seems they went cold some time ago.

Capping the vacuum taps is fine. Although, I would carry a couple extras on board just in case one goes missing. If the cylinders are out of synch, the caps can be damaged from a pop back through the intake. Once you've got it tuned well, there's no issue. Those are the vacuum ports for your balancing manometer. I plugged my taps with solid fasteners for a few years, but had them in and out enough to damage the aluminum threads. Ugh - Heli-Coil and back to the rubber caps!