docc

Pretty sure I rip it up and down the rev-range like a jackrabbit on hot lava. Might be pulling "too much" lube down the valve guides and up the cylinder walls . . .

The link to the "orange flasher" in @po18guy's post is NLA. Here is what I see on "Amazon" for that product. A quantity of four. Plenty for those extra V11 in the collection . . . https://www.amazon.com/Electronic-Flasher-Adjustable-Motorcycle-Indicator/dp/B09Y56KMGK/ref=dp_prsubs_sccl_2/136-9886910-0230837?pd_rd_w=WEvHa&content-id=amzn1.sym.3ad0ccdf-fd9f-4ec9-a400-2b1165fdcd58&pf_rd_p=3ad0ccdf-fd9f-4ec9-a400-2b1165fdcd58&pf_rd_r=MM7384BSEDFHZXG5AWDW&pd_rd_wg=NPTyT&pd_rd_r=1afdf7e3-8c13-4f87-a3ca-ce2dcf7f3e19&pd_rd_i=B09Y56KMGK&th=1

Pretty sure that is the exact design reference to create the V11 Sport "Frame Side Plates" . . . ---> STILETTOS <---

I kinda want to continue down the Path of Denial about my valves and guides.

Thanks, Chuck. I'll check around to see if I can find a tester locally. I only have a compression tester.

The fuel supply from our petcock to the external fuel pump (on the early V11) has always been vulnerable to heat soak from the left cylinder/head. Proper grooming away from the heat source and heat shielding the fuel line is well indicated. One of the contributors to this problem in high ambient temperatures/ hot motor is the mapping that runs rich on EVERY startup for about 4000 revolutions regardless of the temperatures. V11 are likely to run very poorly starting when already hot and high ambient temps until past those 4000+ revolutions. @Lucky Phil could recite the exact number . . .

Thanks for the replies, gentlemen!! @po18guy, It occurred to me that the coils could be "tired" and contributing. @Joe, The tank heat shielding is intact. @gstallons, On the side of the road, I would liked to have had some freeze spray or electronics cleaner to selectively cool components, especially the petcock, fuel line, and pump. They were too hot to touch.

It is quite common the fasteners gets loose, making the bracket vulnerable to bending. The small, lower faster should be snugged up routinely (say, at every oil change). Realize that the larger, top faster torques to 70 Nm (!). I don't recall anyone trying to straighten a bent bracket back.

Hey, @Harey Gough, What were you riding before the V100 Mandello?

Re-priming the fuel pump sounded "weedy." I thought I could "clear" the lines/pump/injectors by cycling the pump. Never worked out. At 5,000 miles, those plugs look "bad" to me . . . You can imagine my joy, starting the Sport up and riding away, after changing the plugs on that roadside after an hour in the immense heat . . .

Yeah, the relays "felt" really hot. My #5 OMRON was dated 2017, so I changed it out to eliminate any contribution. The real game changer was the fresh plugs. Not sure why the high heat and the trashy plugs combined to give me the disappointing day . . .

Sad, indeed. I feel such a respect for Dr. John (as many of us do). While he never engaged with our community, I yet offer my respect.

I feel like I should bring home either an odd or an end, out of reverence . . .

Second time this happened to mySport in high heat after a short run up the road (thirty minutes), and a very short stop->restart (minutes) attempt, then failure to run. Like a "vapor lock." First time, it cleared out suddenly after maybe twenty->thirty minutes. Like it never happened. This time, (High heat: 95ºF/ higher "heat index"), I got maybe 200 yards and the Sport would not recover. Tried cycling the fuel pump (a dozen+ times). Opened the tank cap several times. Chatted with several concerned locals stopping to check on my plight. After an hour pinned between the edge of the road and the guard rail, I thought it would restart after "cooling off." Fanned the petcock/fuel line/fuel pump over the left cylinder/head. No joy. Started to fret over the Timing Sensor. The ECU. Swapped in a fresh #5 (fuel/ignition) relay . . . Figured I fouled the plugs with so many restart attempts an decided to swap in new plugs (always carry new plugs!) thinking the bad plugs would be wet soaked from so many restart attempts. After an hour cool down and fresh plugs, started up and rode home . . . Yeah, they are "plugs", just not *spark*-plugs! Right as I was celebrating turning 134,000 miles . . .

https://briggsauction.bidwrangler.com/ui/auctions/122350

I figured we were doing brands like the Real Men at John Day. I'll be in line right behind @80CX100 . . . Best I could find, but gonna need to step up twice . . .

1 YEAR WARRANTY

I would declare that TPS faulty, in that case (even if newly manufactured). Where did you source it?

All right, all right. You shamed into coming out of slacker mode:

I've been shamed into performing my proper moderator duties and move these (valuable) posts here instead of being a total slacker . . . Share your shop/garage A/C, heat, and dehumidifier insights here.

IPA time!

Check voltages, especially charging at some rpm, for excessive voltage suggesting a failed regulator.

I do not recall the TPS, wiring, orientation, or wire colors changing over the V11 range. Is that N/Vi (black/violet) positive and Vi (violet) negative valid for the later V11 (LongFrames) as well?

From the "Decent Tune-up" . . . Black/purple (N/Vi = nero/viola) is positive and purple/ violet (Vi = viola) is negative. (Caspers breakout harness pictured along with my former "back probing" pins):