docc

I may be the Average Noob of which you speak! When struggling with a running condition a couple years ago, I did not see the jump in mV in the TPS signal, yet when checking it with the Ohm meter, it was obvious that the resistance would lag, then leap. Replacing the unit made a big improvement. I thought it was pretty simple and safe test. Hubert, do you think there is a trouble in it? BTW, Guzzimeister, what happens if you perform the resistance teat on you bad TPS, slowly opening and observing the milliOhms?

You will always be Col-O'-nel Opa to me . . . Yet, the lovely 'Kathy' will not ever be "Oma." Bringing back old bicycles is a noble art. Or , at least, that is what I keep telling my wife and my credit card company . . .

We're talking Red Frame Sports here again?

Folks have used the bulb method for a long time. And, all kidding aside, you'll need at least six foot bulbs (eight foot is probably better). I used the laser method, marking the floor. Honestly, I discovered this after I removed my (damaged) swingarm, and had to install the replacement. I had not recorded the original pin positions. And, no, they are not just the same on both sides. After the careful alignment procedure, the bike tracked notably better, and turn in feel was improved. I think I got it closer than Luigi had time for . . .

Oh, durn . . trapped in the old six-inch trap are we? No, no, really, I meant eight feet . . same thing . . . no . . . really

The washer is on my 2000 Sport and is shown in the Shop Manual, but not in the rear wheel reomoval; only in the rear transmission section (Section O, page 4). Of course, it is not necessary to remove the bevel box to change a tire, but it is a good idea at every tire change to remove the right side caged needles, clean and regrease then install them rotated differently than they came out. They do not spin, but have considerable fore and aft load over a narrow range of rotation. They will get quite knackered over just a few needles if you don't move them regularly. And they pick up a lot of moisture and road scuzz.

Hey, just a reminder, the swingarm has to center the rear tire behind the front. There are several methods to do this including using fluorescent glass tubes or a laser. Otherwise, the manual instructs to take off the lock nuts and measure how far each of the threaded pins sticks out from each side. They are not likely the same from side to side. Precise centering enhances stability and turn in feel.

Having Moto Guzzi is like having ALFA Romeo! Those fellows say it stands for "Always Looking For Another!":mg: (Of course, I have BMW: Belongs to My Wife)

Aye, then, Franco! Single malt goes well with fork oil as well!

Guzz, Glad you're back on the road! When my TPS went bad, I found it by checking the resistance while it was gradually opened and closed. The progression of Ohms should be gradual with no 'jumps' or plateaus. Mine would stick and jump. The replacement improved running notably. And the resistance check is really straight forward and easier than checking millivoltage. I suppose I should be taking a VOM with me on the South'n Spine Raid.

Funny, we all like to say there's nothing much special about these oils and lubricants, then go on to list, discuss, and debate the infinite details and effects of various specifications. As it turns out, it's not all just yak fat . . . RedLine makes a fantastic grease that, if you can get it into your U-joints, I am sure makes a proper 'greaser' with all the non-saponifying drop-point characteristics a fellow could hope for. That said, it is, once again, the common wisdom that if you can get a little grease (any grease) into those joints pretty regularly, they'll do fine.

And before completely disassembling, note the height of the locating pins which "center' the swingarm. A vernier caliper works well in its 'depth' mode. Otherwise, you must recenter the swingarm with the laser method. (Notably, that may get the alignment much better than Luigi originally could take the time for). Not every one feels the same about opening the seal on "sealed" bearings to clean and add some good grease, but I think I've helped some of these bearings by doing so.

Ahw, ya made me look! Since I never actually got my jacuzzi confirmation, I suppose we'll ride over the divide and meet you back at Mike's. You'll be all pruny by then. And that doesn't account for the effects of grappa.

I believe all of Ratchet's old post will be shown that way. But, alas, a no new posts.

Let's see: Tontis would be any big block after Ambos and Eldos (loops) until the spines (Daytona, Sport 1100/1100 Sport, Centauro and V11s) including all the T variants and all the EV variants even those now being produced (California Vintage). Quotas, Breva variants (including Stelvio), Grisos, and Norges are all different animals.

Oi! A moggie with a Guzzi motor! People (like us) who would want such a thing are just not entirely right!

Rotational lock up and shift lock up are distinctly different. This wheel lock up sounds like what Guzzi warned of requiring changing the shift dogs and such in the early recall. Assuming it is the gearbox, and not the bevel drive or the shaft, I wonder if the serial number is in the recall range (I don't remember it extending into 2002)?

At this rate, it looks like I'll be needing stiffer springs every three or four years . . .

I've laid in the course in Garmin MapSource from The Lodge to Mike's (Tellico Motorcycle Outfitters) which shows 230 miles. We may end up with a little detour around Otter Creek Rd. Except for certain Gravel Demon Riders who will ford the Little Tennessee River at flood stage on their EVs. Two up. And still be back to the hotel before the rest of us . . . Anyone interested, PM me and I will email the Garmin route to you so you can know immediately when we've missed a turn.

Sounds like a great way into spring! Once you get your sags and springs set up, the side stand (wot's left) won't touch down much. Seems you've changed up your avatar to show us those dazzling new exhaust cans. Nice, but the dazzle rather does not compare to your prior photo!

As Dr. Venkman would have said, "I love this plan! I'm excited to be part of it! Let's do this thing!" Oh, and thanks for the jacuzzi invite . . .

Quite true, Joe. Deals' Gap is compromised (more than usual). We'll come up with an alternate route. Expect counterclockwise-ness.

Hi, Franco! I think you'll find your fuel filter is nothing "special," but has simple clamps on slip on fuel line. I use the WIX 33310 which is for the Isuzu Trooper, is fully welded and typically made in Israel. It is just slightly shorter than the original Weber and might benefit from a longer inlet line. There is this FAQ on the oil filter alternatives as well as some concerns, and solutions, for their wobbling off while running.

I replaced my TPS in November, 2008, with HD part # 27271-95 for about 45 USD.

"confidence!":thumbsup: