al_roethlisberger

Could be, but it also looks like it was on the all-black Lemans as well. See the photos below.

I still don't have the money for these, but I can't seem to fine Rossopuro anymore. Are they out of business?

This is interesting as it is the second time in about a week that someone from Europe has mentioned having a "2001 Lemans", perhaps the same owner? The V11 Sport was introduced in 1999, and the V11 Lemans was introduced as a 2002 model. So I wonder a few things: 1) Is this owner's V11 Lemans actually a 2001 or 2002? That can be verified by the VIN information above. 2) If this is actually a 2001 bike, did MG release the/some 2002 models earlier in 2001 in Europe? 3) Is this actually a 2002 model, but was mis-registered as a 2001? That happens sometimes. The VIN will clarify. And yes, all V11 Sport models, including the Lemans, are 6 speed transmissions.

Fuel pumps are cooled by fuel, so running them without fuel frequently is not great, certainly for an extended period. But one doesn't need to run them long after the fuel runs out. Fuel pumps are surely designed to survive running without fuel flow for a reasonable amount of time, such as when people run out of gas, otherwise we would see huge failure rates of pumps. Note: I am neither a fuel pump engineer nor manufacturer, so that is my opinion and understanding.

Yep, and then this can happen: https://medium.com/age-of-awareness/nasas-most-expensive-mistake-bb634fb36840

As mentioned earlier though, for a given rider and motorcycle, the only real way to know is to test with a small spare can of fuel, note when the light comes on, and run it out. Do this several times and one may get a good idea of the average for their bike and riding style. I remember doing this a few times with my FJ1200

Metric is absolutely better (IMHO) When I was in elementary school in the early/mid-1970s the USA was trying to convert, but then it became politicized and deprioritized... and stalled part of the way through. So now we have the strangest mix where things like bottles of soft drinks ("soda", Coke, etc) are in liters, but we buy gasoline in gallons... for just one example. I'd have to go back and reference my tank capacity threads, but my recollection is that around 150 miles was where my warning light normally came on. I think that may have been with my original external-pump tank though, as I don't think I did too many long trips after switching to the internal-pump tank. It would be curious to see if the light comes on at different mileage between the external-pump and internal-pump tanks, whether due to capacity or how the sensor works and is located. Here are a couple other threads on the topic:

Per AF1:

Looking at some online photos, I wonder if this came off a black Lemans? I thought those were all black, but looking closer at some photos it appears that the tank and some other body parts are actually a dark gray, while the fairing and rear are black.

Not really relevant, but interesting: https://waterburyelectronic.com/2020/10/cit-relay-switch-acquires-picker-components/ I had never heard of Picker or CIT relays before this thread BTW Are they a quality make?

That green looks fantastic!

Nice gray 2003+ tank on eBay. I'm not sure which model this would have come from, but it looks like a really nice blue or even green-ish gray metal flake color. I bet it looks great out in the sunlight It may have some decal bubbling/lift on the right side though. It's hard to tell for sure from the photos. https://www.ebay.com/itm/204279285601

Yeah, I saw that typo too All very interesting, especially since it was custom Moto International piece, which makes it likely pretty rare, especially with documentation

If in Rome, looks like he's pointed in the right direction to get to Mandello

The original link and image are dead, but if this were for a Ghezzi Brian Folgore, here is one that also sold on Bring a Trailer back in 2020 for interesting reference: 2003 Ghezzi-Brian Folgore Supertwin 1100 for sale on BaT Auctions - closed on October 8, 2020 (Lot #37,565) | Bring a Trailer

OK, all packed up, and it'll be on the way to him tomorrow

I would love to have one of the Daytonas or a Magni Australia one day before my age and back prevent me from riding one Although that price is steep, the "investment" is probably sound for at least a few more years I bet. So one could probably just "tie up" $14k USD in the bike for a while, then sell it for similar money after a few years. ...that being said, one can do a lot of other things for $14k, and may not have that just sitting around for a toy Regarding this specific bike, is it just a trick of the photography, or is both the seat and rear cowling slightly crooked to the right as if the subframe were bent or somehow misaligned? Note the aforementioned custom paint work on the rear cowling, the crooked Moto Guzzi decal, and that the cowling and brake light aren't square to each other... and maybe crooked exhaust too? It also could just be that the cowling and seat, or subframe, is not mounted correctly or is just another Moto Guzzi manufacturing QA inconsistency as well.

In case anyone is curious how one might have pods but retain the side covers, which are normally bolted to the now-removed airbox; see the following thread where I cut up an airbox and used the portion to which the side-covers affix, then built a simple frame from aluminum bar stock to mount it to the bike. Along with the aesthetic aspect (love it or hate it is fine ), this approach also may help with the issue of rain saturation that some pod users have noted by providing some modicum of protection from the elements. This may not be for everyone, but is one approach.

Although I don't remember the specifications on this rack from when I had one many years ago, it is wise to check the maximum load as I recall it seemed to be pretty limited, probably due to the extreme cantilevered mounting. I think there was a decal on the rack itself noting the maximum weight. One would hate to bend, break, or scratch something if it collapsed under load, or lose your cargo.

This looks reasonably DIY "doable" @docc We should consider putting it in the FAQ section since the options available never were very common even when the V11 was new, and now are dwindling if any are even available anymore commercially.

Regarding the Buell pegs, below are the relevant part numbers and a few photos for reference. One will need the Buell pegs and springs. One will also need to modify a bushing to reduce the hole in the Buell pegs to allow use of the Moto Guzzi 6mm pin. I forget what the outside diameter of the bushing required is, but it is easy enough to measure the hole in the Buell peg or the Buell pin if one gets a pair of these pegs. As I recall, tubing/bushings in the ID and OD size required are common and just need to be cut/ground to length. Although pegs like these only drop the position about an inch, many owners have seemed to like this minor adjustment. In my case I did not like pegs like these as they actually made the riding position worse in a different way. Although I did like that they dropped the height a bit, they pushed my feet out away from the bike also about an inch and amplified the already pigeon-toed effect of reaching the shifter and brake pedal. Although I didn't realize it at first, I had been riding the stock pegs with my feet all the way up onto the bracket, against the "porchop"/sideplate, which these style of dropped pegs didn't allow me to do anymore. I tried extending the actual nub on the brake and shifter lever, but I couldn't do so enough to overcome the issue. So I ultimately abandoned using the Buell pegs. Another similar option are the lowered pegs by Knight Design, which appear to be very well made, and no adapter bushing is needed such as with the Buell: http://www.knightdesignllc.com/Products/Motorcycle/Moto-Guzzi/V11-Sport/Moto-Guzzi-V11-Sport-1-Front-Foot-Pegs.html Relevant Buell cross-reference part numbers: N0006.1AD, Pair foot peg assembly N0520.1AD, Foot peg Assembly, Rider LH N0521.1AD, Foot peg Assembly, Rider RH C0249.02A8, Spring Rider, Foot peg, RH C0250.02A8, Spring Rider, Foot peg, LH

The bolt in "1st Series" is specified as M10x55, and in that configuration the parts diagram only shows the part # 14 "washer" under the bolt head. So this earlier bolt is 4mm shorter than the later bolt, perhaps to accommodate both washer and spacer? The bolt in "2nd Series" is specified as M10x59, and uses part # 14 "washer" under the bolt head, and part # 19 "spacer" under the nut. The difference in the two M10 nylock nuts is thread pitch, which for "1st Series" is 1.5 and for "2nd Series" is 1.25, so as mentioned earlier that means that the earlier "1st Series" bolt is 1.5 pitch and the "2nd Series" is 1.25 pitch. ...at least according to the parts manual I was consulting

I honestly don't know... I got it "used" at some point. But it says "V11 Sport" on it, and back then none of us were remapping the ECU as far as I know So I think it should have a valid normal V11 Sport map on it, from what year I'm not sure. Can we tell the model year from the numbers on the ECU? P.S. Once I completely familiarize myself with GuzziDiag and EEPROM reader/writer, I'll likely be asking for help from the experts if/how I can clone (copy) both the fuel and ignition maps from my TLM modified ECU to this one as a backup. It seems clear so far from my partial reading the various GuzziDiag threads that the fuel map can (is typically) what is copied, but it isn't clear to me if that includes the ignition map as well.

OK, this is what I have that could be loaned...

I have one, but not sure if it is for/from a V11 Sport, and not sure what state it is in. I'll have to go look in the garage to see what model # it is. I bought it from somewhere, probably 10+ years ago, so have no real idea.. I was keeping it to at some point copy the configuration from my TLM tuned-for-dual-plugged-heads-15M (ignition retarded, that's it) to this other 15M as a spare in case I ever fried the TLM unit If it is helpful, I'm happy to loan it.