GuzziMoto

Glad to hear it is working out well. Suspension setting are almost always a compromise. It is hard to get one setting that works everywhere. But at least now when you turn the adjuster it makes a difference. That is a major upgrade in my opinion. And I also agree with Pressureangle, getting spring rates right is a fundamental aspect of suspension tuning. and setting your sag should give you an idea of how close your spring rates are. That process has been discussed fairly extensively here, but if anyone wants to dig into that can of worms just let me know.

Cheese curds are the beginnings of cheese. They are what you think they are, a result of separating the curds and whey. Then, in most cases, they undergo additional processing to make various kinds of cheese. But you can eat them as they are. They have less flavor typically then the cheeses that would be made from them. But they taste fine as is. In a way they are like concentrated milk. I love meat, but am not much for the various organs and other parts of an animal that aren't "meat". But certainly if I have to eat stuff like that it is better to have more spices involved, rather then less.

Scrapple and its relatives are what they sound like, making use of the parts that no one wants (at least that is the way I see it). And while to some they are a delicacy, to me and my wife (who used to have to eat Scrapple as a kid growing up on a farm) they are to be avoided. The wife tells me the way she would eat her Scrapple is to smoother it in Ketchup. Poutine, on the other hand, sounds like something good to eat. I really shouldn't put Poutine in the same boat as Scrapple, Pannhass, and Puddin'. But for some reason I got started down that road when Poutine was mentioned.

We don't have Poutine, we have Pannhass, which is like Scrapple. You can also find places around here that serve Puddin', not to be confused with Pudding. Puddin' is also like Scrapple. I actually like Cole Slaw on a BBQ sandwich. It is a common side for BBQ around here, and when eating a sandwich instead of a platter it is common to put it on the sandwich. It is usually optional. But the flavors go well together.

There isn't anything special about a Guzzi as far as stands go. There is that model specific stand that Guzzi sold, I believe they called it a central stand. Item #6 in the parts catalog under Tools Not sure if you can still get that workshop stand. But most any generic stands will work. Some stands require bobbins be added to the rear swing arm, that requires additional work. But a stand that just uses rubber coated wings to pick up the rear swing arm, like this one, will work. https://www.cyclegear.com/accessories/oxford-big-black-bike-rear-stand?sku_id=978434 That one is just a cheap stand, not one I specifically use. The ones I use are old and no longer sold. If I were buying one today I would probably buy a stand from PitBull, as they are a quality brand. But they are twice what a cheapy stand will cost you. On the bright side, not only are they better designed and built than the cheapy stands but they are modular so you can upgrade it later to spools if you add spools to the swing arm. Spools will be more secure.

My two cents, several factors appear to be in play there. For one, the horsepower and torque graphs are using different scales. So a line indicating a given amount of power indicates a different amount of horsepower than the same point wound indicate for torque. Also, it is in different scales for power and torque than horsepower and ft/lbs of torque. Not sure how that transfers. Next, the power measurement is not in rpms but in kilometers per hour. There is rpms across the bottom, but the measuring is actually by rear wheel speed. One more, once you switch to a calculated value, like when they calculate power at the clutch vs their measurement which is at the rear tire, all bets are off. I don't read Italian, but I believe the red line is actual power measured at the rear tire and the other two lines are calculated horsepower and torque at the clutch (we would normally refer to that as power at the crank, but whatever). Either way, the blue and black lines are calculated and not real measurements. That, combined with the different scales for HP and torque mean all bets are off. But that is okay, it is still a good spread of power, and it looks like the new engine is a good one. I hope it doesn't suffer the design flaws of the one it replaces. The 8v motor had good power, but ate its valve train.

Yeah, righty - tighty more dampening. Lefty - loosey less dampening.

What docc said, clockwise / turned in is more dampening. More dampening is slowing down movement of the fork in that direction, so the compression adjuster turned all the way in would be maximum compression dampening and the slowest compression of the fork it can do. The rebound adjuster turned all the way in would be maximum rebound dampening, meaning the rebound of the forks would be as slow as possible. Normally the reference point is the adjuster screwed all the way in as that is a positive stop where the needle hits the seat. When you turn the adjuster out, counter-clockwise, there is often not a positive stop as the needle is simply moving away from the seat. So where it stops is not always identical on one unit to another. It should be, but maybe it isn't. But turned all the way in, all the way clockwise, will always be the same because in that direction it stops when the needle hits the seat. Usually on the street you want as little dampening as you need to control suspension motion. At least that is my take. But if I paid someone who knows more than I do to re-valve the forks I would start with the adjusters where ever they put them. I would turn them all the way in, counting how many clicks out they are, and then put them back to that. From there I would adjust them in or out as required for best results. You could then use that info to have further adjustments made to the valving. If you had to turn the compression adjuster in to get the desired ride quality that would mean the valving maybe needs to be a little firmer, for example. @LaGrasta, just so you know, without blocking off the bypass holes as @guzzlersaid he had done you may find the adjuster has very little impact on compression dampening except in the last inch or so of travel (when the piston has gone by the bypass holes). By blocking off the bypass holes you force more oil to pass through either the valving in the piston or the adjuster. Without blocking off the bypass holes the fork oil is pretty much free to bypass the valving and the adjuster until the piston goes past the bypass holes, which is in about the last inch of suspension travel. The forks can work much better with one or more of those bypass holes blocked off. This seems to be mainly the earlier 40mm forks. I don't think the later 43mm forks have the same issue. But it is hard to say for sure, as has been mentioned you never know which parts are on a given Guzzi.

If you are curious, add a temp sensor to the intake inside the airbox. You can get a datalogging temp sensor if you want, or you can just run a temp sensor that displays temp and read it. See how much warmer, if any, is the intake air temp vs the ambient air temp. It should be straight forward. If there is a difference in temps, you will see it. How large the difference is would indicate how big a difference it is making. For sure, warmer intake temps mean less hp. That is what it is. But if the intake air temp of a Guzzi isn't much higher than ambient air temp you aren't going to gain much from reducing it. On the other hand, if your intake air temp is 60 degrees warmer than ambient air temp or more there is clearly something to be gained there. And being temp, it is easy to measure. No point putting in the work to reduce intake temp before measuring to see if intake temp is an issue. Side note, when you run a V8 with a forced induction like a roots style supercharger the supercharger leads to higher manifold / intake temps. At a point, adding more boost by running the blower faster raises manifold temps more than it increases boost, so that the gains from higher boost levels are offset by the losses from higher intake temps.. Running a fuel high in alcohol like E85 cools the intake air, dramatically lowering manifold temps. Measured boost levels may even decrease, because the cooler intake air is denser. But power goes up. A lot. Engine Masters, a tv show on Motor Trend Network, did a show on that where they run a V8 with a roots blower on different fuels, with and without an intercooler. The best combination is the blower on E85 as it cools the intake temps more than the intercooler. It even cools the intake temps below ambient air temp as I recall.

Like so many have already said, if you are happy with how it runs now with pods, leave it. It could run slightly better and make a better spread of power if you went back to the stock airbox, but it sounds like doing so would open up its own can of worms as it sounds like it has been tuned to work well enough with the pods. Changing it back would likely mean additional tuning required to get it to run best with the stock airbox. The pods will give up a small amount of performance, but the trade off is a gain in the looks dept (at least in my opinion). If the performance with pods is good enough to you, I would leave it. If you aren't happy with the way it runs, I would put the stock airbox back on and go from there. But just as tuning is required to make it run acceptably with pods, tuning would likely be required to get it to run right with the stock airbox after it has been tuned to run right with pods.

Fascinating. Very much a departure from the past for Guzzi. Truly a clean sheet design. The wet liners remind me of the Aprilia XV engine.

We missed all this, we were off on a trip out to South Dakota with the Jeep pulling our RV trailer. Hit the Black Hills and the Badlands. While out there we had some good BBQ in the middle of nowhere, Kansas. Pete's BBQ. https://www.google.com/maps/@39.7851445,-98.7850115,3a,75y,345.3h,85.14t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sp87qiMvCS_rf1w9fgw_Shw!2e0!7i16384!8i8192?hl=en We nearly missed the place as it did not look anywhere near as inviting as it looks in the google street image. It looked closed and maybe abandoned. But the Briskets was really good, and I was glad we ate there. And I always prefer to not add BBQ sauce to what they serve. If they wanted it slathered in BBQ sauce they would have done so. If it needs more sauce than it is served with something is wrong. Adding sauce after cooking seems like the cooking process was lacking. Most of the best BBQ I have had required no additional sauce over what it was cooked with. Also found a great place to eat in the middle of nowhere western Nebraska. Next time out that way we will adjust our route to hit that spot again. Also found a great hot dog joint in Athens, Ohio. O' Bette's Red Hots.

Sorry no one else followed up on this last comment. Personally I think insulating the stock airbox is a good idea. My Daytona had an airbox that was under the seat, not wrapping up and forward to the V of the engine. But I think overall the V11 airbox is a better design. But one drawback of the V11 design would be engine heat. Anything that slows the transfer of heat to the airbox should help reduce intake temps. Reducing intake air temps should help make more power. Will it transform a V11 into a fire breathing monster? No. That ain't gonna happen. But more power is good.

Looks good enough to me. As I said, I would paint it, so I am not very concerned with the finish, as long as the shape is accurate.

I am a firm believer in "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". I would not remove a Power Commander if the bike is running just fine. But if the bike stops running fine, removing it would be pretty high on my list of things to do to resolve the issue. In fact, I will likely be removing the Power Commander on the wife's V11 shortly as it has some issues with the way it runs. I fear the Power Commander has starting acting up. Or not, could be something else. But removing the Power Commander removes a potential source of problems. More than a few people have experienced their Power Commander failing. Electronic devices do that sometimes. Or it could also be the TPS getting itchy and scratchy.

I am reluctant to jump into this shitshow, but here is something that some here may not understand. In the world of brakes, brake pistons, and brake pads, it is not about which one moves first. It is about pressure applied to press the pads against the rotors. Even pad wear is about managing the pressure of the pads against the rotor. The pads are never far from the rotors, the distance the pistons travel in a typical application of the brakes is tiny. So whether one moves first or not isn't really what it is about. It is about applying the right pressure across the brake pad(s). That pressure is a product of the ratio between the master cylinder and the piston applying the pressure to that brake pad. Different size slave pistons change that pressure applied for a given amount of pressure at the master cylinder.

Is there something wrong with the one you have now?

Unless you have a syringe that can generate 45 psi, I don't think that will replicate the actual spray pattern.

Your image makes it appear it is on the right. That petcock should be on the left. If it is, maybe the image got reversed accidentally. When you turn the key to ON, does the fuel pump run for a few seconds?

To expand on this, as the tires (and the air inside them) heats up the pressure will increase. Tires are supposed to heat up a given amount in use. That increase in temp will create around a 10% increase in air pressure. That increase in pressure can be higher, up to 15% higher, if the starting temp was lower (like when it is cold outside). But for typical motorcycle use you should expect to see a 10% increase in tire pressure if the starting temps are typical motorcycle temps and the tires are pushed hard enough to get them up to temp. It is science.

I am still in. And I am not in a hurry. It is a want for me, not a need. And it isn't like I am ever selling my Guzzi. It will always be there waiting for a cowl.

I would have thought by now someone would have posted a pic of an actual Coppa Italia I am a fan of the Coppa Italia, and regret that while I came close to getting one I wasn't able to. It was one of my favorite parts bin special versions of the V11. The bike for sale does look to have the correct pork chops in the metallic red anodized color, and is that a frame mount front fairing? Not sure. Doesn't look like it. But the lack of Ohlins (or Nohlins as po18guy said so well), along with the lack of the fancy paint job, mean that ain't what they say it is. At $6,000 that is too much money for a V11 in that shape. That is 5 lbs of shit for the price of 10.

About the only unusual thing in doing an oil change on a V11 Sport is the oil filter access. The oil filter is actually in the oil sump of the motor, and they added a "manhole" access port in the bottom of the sump to get to the filter AFTER you drain the oil out of the sump. Or some people prefer to change the oil filter by removing the sump. That allows increased access to the oil filter. One key aspect of an oil filter change is to make sure when you remove the oil filter the oil filter gasket comes with the oil filter. If it stick to the engine and you install another oil filter without noticing that the filter gasket was stuck in place it will cause oil issues with the sealing surface of the oil filter leaking oil pressure. A sure sign this has happened is a low oil pressure light that won't go out as it should. If the stock steering damper is working properly it is fine. Ours failed. That is not uncommon. We removed it when it failed and never replaced it. The V11 doesn't really need a steering damper. But if yours fails and you prefer the heavier, slower, steering that comes from having a steering damper by all means replace it with a quality unit. My wife found she preferred the lighter steering and increased feedback she got without the steering damper. But I can see where some people would not prefer that.

There is also the fact that the two cylinders are not even, one is offset from the other. Since the starting point of the two exhaust pipes isn't even, the ending point of the two exhaust pipes is also typically not even.

There is no advantage to running a line between the two throttlebodies. The factory does that when they need to connect the two throttlebodies to the EVAP system. If the EVAP system "fell off" there is no longer a reason to connect the two throttlebodies. Nothing bad will happen if you do run a line between the two throttlebodies, but it doesn't help either. Do whichever is more convenient to you. I think directly capping off the ports at the throttlebodies is more convenient, but if you find a tube between the ports is more convenient do that.