gstallons

Pod filters will make it lean if you are looking for stock tune and stock exhaust. It will get worse with open mufflers or aftermarket crossover unless you take the PC3 or other route for adding fuel. I feel pod filters are too noisy but some people don't mind it. Before you order them, disconnect the inlet tubes to the throttle bodies and go for a quick ride down the street and back with open throttle bodies. You'll get a feel for the noise level. I'm not a big fan of K&N. The stock paper filter will flow more air than you can use and do a better job of filtering. Amen on the K&N. You must be a mechanic?

Go ahead and get it NOW. You know 2012 is 6 months away, then the End of The World.* * The Mayan and Incan calendar said it.

Hmmmmmmmmm.

Everything looks good except for the skunk stripe on the front fender. What brand are the wheels?

Get the rear wheel on a stand. Have someone press and release the rear brake pedal. Try rotating the rear wheel. If there is a drag on the rear wheel, break loose the bleeder screw WITH the dust boot on the screw. This allows for pressure release without introducing air into the hydraulic system. If it (the rear wheels) loosens and rotates freely the problem is NOT the caliper. It could be the hose or master cylinder. If it remains tight, the caliper is at fault. I do not know what parts such as rebuild kits are available. You can watch eBay for parts too.

You can buy them from MotoInternational. Give them a call and they will tell you the application.

V twin ? What c.c. ?

There ar ergonomic realities about 21 yr. old girls too.

Can you post pics of the Moto Morini ?

That'd work in well for further plans I have if I keep this bike. That'd work in well for further plans I have if I KEEP this bike? THAT'D WORK IN WELL FOR FURTHER PLANS I HAVE IF I KEEP THIS BIKE ???????????? Where is the lightning bolt key on this keboard ? We're all addicted. There is NO cure!

You can mount, tie, attach it to anything. I wouldn't let it just hang. I would place it where direct air current would not blow across it or dirt could accumulate on it.

Looks good. Show some more pictures.I like the Eagle.

You remove the slack from the cable and loosen the jam screw from the cable stop (I guess thats what it's called) and take up the slack and tighten the screw just tight and leave some clearance so it is not the idle stop. Look at it and understand what is going on before you jump in.........

You can use a ScotchBrite scuffing pad to clean it up with. Use a micrometer and take some measurements to see if you have a diameter problem. with the wheel off install the axle shaft (bolt) to see if it slides in and rotates without any difficulty. Lubricate these parts with a small amount of oil upon reassembly.

Pazzo is "the bling factor". Don't know anything about the Motomart levers. I own CRG.

Does he send that Sport to the dry cleaners after EVERY ride?

#1 Disconnect the linkage between the two throttle bodies. You can disconnect it at the l.h. side by removing the e-clip carefully so as to not lose it. #2 Make sure the fast idle cam has plenty of clearance on the r.h. throttle body and back out a couple of turns the idle speed screw. This screw is at the top of the l.h. throttle body. #3 Back each throttle stop screw out and put a .002" feeler gauge in between the screw and stop on the l.h. throttle body. Turn the screw in til the feeler gauge will stay in place. Install another .002" feeler gauge on the r.h. throttle body using the same procedure. With these gauges in place adjust the linkage to slip into the l.h. throttle body. #4 Start the bike and allow it to reach operating temp. Then adjust the idle speed screw to desired idle speed. #5 Then adjust the t.p.s. voltage. You are on your own as far as the voltage you want there! Hope this helps!

I own a Fluke 88 DVOM and a Simpson 260 analog multi-meter. I use the DVOM to test the tps (potentiometer) on everything. I do not think I could catch a glitch with the analog meter. Slowly rotating the throttle barrel sweeps the tps sensor and asing the DVOM will show the resistance of the sensor from idle to full throttle. Most sensors fail in the position(s) or throttle angle they are usually in during riding.

The throttle body sync / tps adjustment is (difficult the first time) easy to perform. Are you good with feeler gauges, DVOMs and thinking?

Bill(and anyone else), Send me pics to show ME what I missed. Gene

That's where it is leaking. Remove the sensor, clean the mating surfaces with BrakeKleen and apply a small amount of silicone sealer to the sensor and shim and where it will mate to the block. Install and allow to dry overnight.

I assume all this noise is coming from the exhaust since this is during decelleration? You probably have a lean condition causing this. I would check tps adjustment and throttle bodies for a good seal around the rubber mounts. HTH......

I have heard that referred to as a sheen of oil too.

How are you using a DVOM? If you have one and consider yourself good at it: connect it to two terminals of the tps sensor. Rol the throttle to see a change in resistance. If there is none, move one of the leads to the other terminal and try again. It should change resistance as the throttle is rotated.Now move the meter to a high scale, SLOWLY roll the throttle to watch a linear change in resistance. If you observe a glitch such as a drop or goes to infinity you have found your problem. the glitch will be at the same throttle position as the stumble. p.s. you can do this with the key off as to not cause any damage.

Are you good using a DVOM ? Connect it to 2 terminals (of the TPS) and roll the throttle VERY slowly to watch a change in resistance. If nothing happens move one lead to the other terminal. Try this again. SLOWLY open the throttle and I mean slowly. This signal should be a linear increase or decrease in resistance. If you see a drop or open in the reading the tps is bad. p.s. the ignition can or should be off. You can put the meter on a suitable scale to see a glitch on the screen.