Kiwi_Roy

It'll take me a few days to re-do the sketch. My Mac trashed the hard drive a few months back and I had no backup Roy Sent from my shoe phone!

I have been meaning to post a troubleshooting sketch for the later VIIs for quite a while Here's the earlier ones like mine, a 2001, you've seen this before. And here's the later one, I'm not sure when Luigi made the switch, 2003 or 2004 I think, It's just a rough sketch at the moment, as I get time I will make it more like the earlier sketch, in the meantime you may find it useful. Both sketches only show the important stuff around making it go. I don't like this version as much as it since it passes the start solenoid current through the ignition switch and a bunch of additional wiring. Compare it to the earlier version where the juice comes straight from the battery thru Fuse 5 which should be a 20 Amp IMHO

No electric petcock? If you took it off, serves you right LOL I figured out why my Speedhut gauges weren't working, I tapped into the Ignition switch feed so the gauges don't reset when starting, the spade connector had pulled apart. I took some nice pictures, thinking about selling her My financial adviser is starting to object as I have 3 other Guzzis Later on I found I forgot to put the chip back in the camera before taking the shots, you'll have to trust me they were nice pictures.

What year is your bike? I will look at the relevant schematic. Actually I wasn't able to find a Scura among Carl's drawings, any possibility of sending me a scan of the one in your manual?

There's a starting interlock that calls for either the stand up or the bike in Neutral. Since your neutral light was off you need the stand Up, I'm guessing the wire going to the neutral switch (sticking out of gearbox behind starter) is loose. Where abouts in Godzone are you? Just that your profile says Toronto

I would just plug the tire you have, but I'm cheap. Sent from my shoe phone!

Carbon finer cans, the only way to go IMHO Sent from my shoe phone!

Ford Taurus, boring as bat-shit but dead reliable so I have more money to spend on motorbikes

If it just pulled the yellow wires off the coils you should be able to re-attach. If the copper is oxidized replace it with some new.

Sculler2x It's a good idea to run back to the starter but the motor/gearbox have even less resistance than a large copper wire. Your #8 wire will probably carry the full starting current without getting too hot if the No 4 fell off. I'm guessing the wire Luigi provided is about equivalent to a #14, it can't handle 150+ Amps as you can see from the picture. Update On further thought that's a very good idea, if the bolt works loose the circuit from the regulator is broken also, there's no path back that way either. Go one step further and make sure that no small black wires land directly on the battery. .

The picture issue seems to have resolved itself.

Looking at the pictures Cottagetone posted of his gasket thread reminded me how poorly grounded the regulator is. All the current from the alternator passes to the battery thru the double red wire but it has to pass back to the regulator case to complete the circuit, The case is very poorly grounded thru a long wire back to the battery and rusty contact to the horn bracket. Any Voltage lost in this connection between regulator case and battery negative is subtracted from the battery Voltage. A short strap between the regulator case and an engine bolt improves the connection, the engine / gearbox is like a massive wire back to the main battery ground at the gearbox. I know of several spine frame bikes that caught fire because the main ground to the gearbox worked loose, the starting current will find it's way back to battery negative through the small black wire from the regulator case, this causes the wire to get red hot and melt itself to other wires in the loom shorting them to ground. Make sure the main battery ground is securely connected to a gearbox bolt and take the time to scrape and grease the battery connections with Vaseline. Here's a picture one owner shared, the bare wire is the ground from the regulator to battery negative terminal. Fortunately the damage was easily repaired but he had to open up 3 feet of the loom to do it. The ground on my bike was just under the 4mm screw that holds the seat release lock, luckily I caught it in time and moved it to a gearbox bolt in full view. Here's part of the schematic first showing the starter return current flowing through the correct path at the top. Then with a loose ground at the bottom showing how the current switches to the wrong path through the small ground wire. Remember, it's not just a loose wire that can cause this, a badly oxidized battery terminal can do it as well, thats why I always rabbit on about greasing the battery terminals with Vaseline, it keeps the Oxygen from the Lead so it can't form an insulating Lead Oxide layer. BTW, another wire that often gets burnt up is the small ground to the ECU case, this happens when owners forget and remove the battery positive first making contact between a live tool and the ECU case.

I'm curious about the blind hole with 3 screws in the top of the cover. anyone seen anything in there?

A 2 Watt resistor will do 82 Ohms is a preferred value (readily available). I just used one of the old lamps in parallel with the LED, keeps things in balance like before. Incandescent bulbs are like magic resistors Low resistance when cold High resistance when hot the exact opposite of the fuel sensor, they work perfect together

The resistor is called a "Pull Up Resistor", sometimes electronic circuits don't provide Voltage they might just be a transistor or other solid state switch. The resistor ensures that when the switch is open the tacho sees 12 Volts, when the switch is closed it seen nominal 0 Volts similar to a tach wired across a set of points. I suspect the Guzzi ECU puts out 5 Volt pulses so the resistor is not required. BTW, I thought the pulse input speedo would require something similar but it worked fine with just a reed switch, Speedhut thought of everything.

I think the oil would overheat only in traffic with low air flow over the radiator. What would work better, a larger radiator with low air flow or adding a small computer fan behind the existing one? A small thermostat on the return line set to about the same setting as the existing thermostat would cut the fan in or if it ran 24/7 the existing thermostat would only let oil in when it gets overheated.

The farking wire has fallen off the spade lug. Sent U a PM

I have mine on the yellow wire to the park/instrument lights. Another option would be the red/black wire to the idiot lights.

IMHO It's best to choose a circuit that's turned off with the key, the headlight circuit would be my choice the small load the USB adds won't have any effect. BTW the USB adapter contains a 5 Volt regulator.

Relay No 1 is the start, look for power at the top Slot (30) I have seen the 15 Amp fuse blow, it really should be a 20 Amp (it draws over 40 Amps for a split second) ---- 30 fed directly from the fuse even with key off ---- 87 | | | If you poke a wire into 30 & 87 it should crank over, make sure it's in neutral first though Later V11s (2004) feed the start relay through the ignition switch which is stupid. Check for 12 Volts at the 30 terminal of relay 1 with the key On then Off, get back.

Bear in mind that the bike is in Europe, your wiring may be a little different than the Nth American version.

Some confusion here, SP838 says 6205 We really need a spreadsheet of all the standard bearings for each model Roy

The melting fuse is a common occurrence. I suspect caused by the regulator setup, it puts out pulses of current well in excess of 30 Amps. The regulator ground is so important because the charging current has to pass back from the chassis to the regulator case in order to complete the circuit back to the alternator, there's too much Voltage drop in the little wire Luigi ran back to the battery. Lately I have been advocating a strip of Aluminum sheet metal instead of copper wire that way it's the same material all the way from regulator case to engine. Sent from my shoe phone!

Scud, 19:39 on the 24 hour clock. On the 3rd day of the trip my riding buddy clipped a car on a blind corner and ended up draped over a crash barrier having slammed into several posts, 7 Broken ribs and a few other bones resulted in a hellicopter ride to hospital, he gets to stay in NZ for several more weeks, still beats the alternative. I have clocked up about 4k on the old brick between visiting Fanau and back to hospital. Sent from my shoe phone!

If you pull it apart and move the tumblers around it might work better, the worn out cogs move to the left. Sent from my shoe phone!