Chuck

Thanks for that, Scud..

I know.. I'm being lazy, but does anybody know of a good source? Is there a tutorial here? TIA

I know a guy that gets that kind of mileage out of PR3s.

I'm sure Phil has forgotten more about this stuff than I'll never know.. so I doubt that's it. Where's that popcorn emoticon? I'm getting ready to try to learn something.. Phil, yours is the first one I've heard of leaking.

Here's Wayne's explanation with links, too.. http://hogmountain.homenet.org/Dielectric_grease.htm

Thanks for that..

Has anyone tried the ContiRoadAttack 2 EVOOn their V11S? the Kid put Classic attacks on his Spot and loves them. I put a set on the Monza, too.. Youza!

A Distinguished Previous Owner of a non running Strada I bought thought it was a good idea to put dielectric grease in all electrical connections. Naturally, it never ran again. Dielectric means, "does not conduct electricity." Another guy bought it, couldn't get it running and sold it to me after buying a $$new$$ unneeded Digipex unit. Wayne Orwig posted a long explanation of why not to use it. It included migration inside relays (!!) among other things. He says the only place to use it is spark plug boots.

When you work with a personal trainer, he finds your weaknesses pretty fast. He said my core strength sucked. After building my core, I went back to sport bikes without issue. No more aching wrists and neck. You don't need to be a weatherman to know which way the wind blows..

Ooh, pretty.

That worried me, too . . . But, look closely in the second photo in front of the (gorgeous!! ) V11 on the workbench: I spy a rubber handle with a red shank. Could it be ? Oh, yeah.. that's a smiter all right..

Hmmm, so how would "they" know if you modified an engine?

Blew out a disc in my back when I was out in SoCal.. this getting old is BS. At any rate, It's still a couple of weeks until I can get in to the cutter. Been going crazy not being able to lift anything, etc. The Mighty Scura needs fork seals, but that is probably a little much to take on right now. However.. the adjuster knob on the rear shock has gone missing. Ohlins doesn't sell it as a spare part. (!) So.. an hour of lathe and cnc mill work later, give it a couple of coats of SEM flat black, and I have a new one. 2017-02-02_10-45-17 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr Since I have an hour or so in it, probably I should ask the boss for 80 bux.

Well, yeah. You can find them all day at garage sales or Craig's list. Maybe for free. (Guzzi content). Then, you can do your own powder coating on small parts.

Here's what Guzzi did with the Aero engine.. 2017-02-02_08-05-03 by Charles Stottlemyer, on Flickr

I think my handy little reader goes for thirteen bucks. Probably less at HF. I've used it a lot! Yeah, I have one too. Naturally, I bought it at the highest price several years ago when they first came out. Works great for spotting a dud cylinder on an airplane.

Yes.

You're going to *love* the sound out of those suckers..

For $400, I'll touch my lips to it..

Any 5 pin will work in all locations. From memory (roll eye) number 1 *needs* to be a 5 pin.

People ask me what was the toughest job in putting the Aero engine in the Lario. Without a doubt, mating up the exhaust to the ports on the engine. A few thousandths at the exhaust flange will make a huge difference as you go rearward.

Fine. When Spring finally arrives, I'll see how much leaner I can make it without getting a lean stumble.

Joints don't work for me unless it's just a clean up and organize job.

In that video of yours they showed the small aircraft you'd built & I wondered at the time if you had fabricated the metal bodywork. Many years ago a friend of mine was building a wooden frame aircraft in his garage; I don't know if it was ever completed or flown, but I remember admiring how light & risilient the wing sections were. Firm but able to flex. Yeah, I pretty much did all the metal work. Our ISP is tits up as ususal. (roll eye) I'll show you some of my best stuff when Ican post from a computer.

Loosen up *all* fasteners, tweek.