Chuck

FWIW, the FAA doesn't allow spring lock washers.

Yep, that's them all right. As the Indy used car salesman used to say on 50s TV.. bring your wife, let's dicker. I'll send you a PM..

What Scud says. Take all three off, align everything, assemble. Do it right the first time.. Nothing to it..

I'm interested if they are the same version as mine. There are apparently two versions. How about a picture?

This makes perfect sense, actually. Why would you want to add air to the mixture at idle without fuel? I'll try setting it to 1 turn on both ABS's and then balance it using the white knob (and my CarbTune). Question: if this is really the case, what are the air bleed screws for anyway then? You can tweek the idle balance with the air bleed screws. A little more air causes leaner idle mixture, and it speeds up, and conversely.

I was thinking 1 turn out was about max?

Airhead=ZZZZZZZZZZZZZ

Looks like you already checked for a vacuum leak. Sounds lean, for whatever reason, though. Of course, that means it's probably electrical. Do you have GuzziDiag?

x posted from WG I found a schematic (I'm certainly no electrician) and the ringer here to me is the fuel pump isn't running. If I'm reading this correctly, fuse F1 powers the ECU relay, which triggers the INJ relay, powered by fuse F2, which powers the coils, injection, andfuel pump. You *have* checked for power at fuse F1, and F2, right? Kiwi Roy was right (of course) the headlight being on rules out the ignition switch. There is an Amp connector 35 from the ignition switch that I'd suspect. This deals with the kill switch, sidestand switch, yada yada.

I would check for a vacuum leak.

Attaboy, Scud.. really nice.

Ok, in that case, it sounds like the ignition switch to me. I'd check for power to the sidestand switch and fuse F6.

I looked pretty hard, Docc.. but I don't see a hammer?? I'd think it would take a two pounder for a job that size..

A quicky trouble shooting thing. No neutral light-look for sticking neutral switch. Won't run in neutral-look for stuck neutral switch..or.. middle relay. Won't run in gear-side stand switch. That don't work? It's cursed. I'll give you a hunnerd dollars for it.

Just what everyone needs.. a hundred horse 600 lb. dirt bike..

FWIW, I use channel locks and lightly squeeze the last coil of the spring so it is secure on the boss when assembling the clutch. I'm guessing s wayward spring is your problem..

Nice..

Joe, you've missed out on the latest development of the Ram clutch while you were away. The new ones might be ok..

That would be way out of Joe's price range. He liquidated everything to move to Germany, then had to come back so his wife could be with her mother. (cancer) She's doing ok, now.. but Unkept and his sweetie are starting from scratch.. again.

I have just spent 3 months helping my pup, Austin, with his KLR from hell. What a complicated machine for such a simple job..

Uhh, flock yes..

Just MHO, but sometimes Guzzi specs need to be taken with a lump of salt. Occasionally, I wonder if the guys (and girls) that write Guzzi manuals have ever turned a wrench.

That's nine. Close enough.. I haven't inquired with the water jet shop yet. I've been up to my er.. elbows.. in alligators supervising Austin making oiler nozzles and helping him get his stupid KLR roadworthy. What a nightmare.. If necessary, I'll.. cough cough.. make them by hand when this nozzle order is finished.

"P.Roper" torque . . . So, this business of "torque the axle from the drive side" . . . Any basis as to why? Sure. You are just torquing the nut, not the whole assembly with the attendant drag involved if you are torquing the shaft. At least that makes sense to me..

According to Pete.. the proper torque is "Until you fart." Works for me..