Lucky Phil

Was reading one of Brad Blacks reports yesterday and came across something I didnt know. One very important thing to know about the 1.5M ECU is that it runs rich for the first 3,000 rotations every time you start the engine after turning the key or kill switch off and then on. I just thought (while typing this) that I don’t know what happens if the engine stalls and you restart it – I’ve never tested that. So best to assume it does it every time. And this is not just when it’s cold. Every time! Even when it’s hot. If you start it up and check the idle mixture quickly and it’s 5% CO after idling for 3 or so minutes (3,000 rotations at 1,100 RPM idle is about 3 minutes) the mixture will drop to maybe 1% CO or so and it’ll idle like crap. I usually allow at least 4 to 5 minutes for the mixture to settle after starting the engine. It’s very annoying when you’re in a hurry, as you have to turn the engine off then back on to initiate the setting procedure with the diagnostic tools, but that’s how it is. For the full report and hours of interesting reading...... http://www.bikeboy.org/ducati2vthrottleb.html Ciao

No that would look horrid. Ciao

You cant get them wet Chuck, they dont like the rain. I never ride mine in the rain. If I get caught out I just go to the nearest hotel, book in and come out when it's fine:) Ciao

Yes chuck or its just failing period. Buy yourself a cheap Chinese copy one for like $15US and try that. If its not you havent spent the $170US they seem to want for the OEM. OEM ones are a little hard to come by these days and you see a lot of aftermarked retailers selling the Chinese ones so they cant be all that bad as they are used on a lot of older automotive stuff. Thats my theory anyway having bought one to use in the Daytona engine. Havent got it running yet so I cant comment on the performance. Ciao

Your rod should be the correct overall length give or take. It looks like what you need to do is machine the clutch end dia down and along the length enough until its a slug fit in the pressure plate button and bottomed out. Then check the protrusion as i outlined. It should be close to these figures give or take a little. And then you can do what I did with the Daytona engine and 6 speed with the RAM clutch which is to fit the slave and slide half the drive shaft onto the gearbox output shaft,put it in gear and see if when you pull the clutch it disengages and at what point from the bar and that you have a little freeplay before it loads the pressure plate spring. If it disengages a long way from the bar then the rod is too long and the converse would be too short. Ciao

I had to think for a second as well docc but if you look at your images in the link when your input nut backed off you can see the non reduced end there. I also went and checked my old engine and the reduced end is definitely at the slave end. God I only assembled the Daytona engine a few months ago and I'd forgotten already. Ciao

Your rod has been installed the correct way around but at the clutch end the rod doesnt appear to have engaged the pressure plate button correctly which would mean the rod is in effect too long and possibly holding the pressure plate partially disengaged. This would cause slipping issues.This is one of the issues using a 5 speed RAM clutch with the six speed gearbox. You need to machine down the dia of the clutch end of the pushrod. To check the correct length of the pushrod once machined,install the gearbox and clutch with the pushrod and the pushrod bearing assembly and the piston and push it as far forward as possible then measure from the piston end to the gearbox face that the slave cylinder bolts to. With the single plate clutch with the original plate( same as I have fitted ) the measuremnt should be approx 18.5 mm. It about 19.5 with a partially worn twin plater. If you assemble yours as before and the measurement is say 14 or 15mm then thats almost certainly what been causing the slip due to the pushrod not seating in the pressure plate button and holding the pressure plate partially disengaged. Look for damage to the gearbox pushrod bearing and piston as well. If you use the later thicker friction plate you may need to modify the length of the pushrod and also the pressure plate button on pre 2015 RAM clutch assemblies. Ciao EDIT.....here's your answer.......3rd last post by footgoose

Thanks docc I'll check my charger when I get the bike back together. It's possible to that the old reg might have been charging ok when cold but not when hot maybe. I'll check the seat base as well,good tip. Ciao

Docc for the second time my battery has leaked. After the original one leaked I wired the headlight direct with some mini relays to bring the reference voltage into line fitted a new battery and checked the charging rate and it was fine. When I pulled the battery to fit the new engine I noticed it had started to leak again( luckily I had placed some absorbent material into the battery rubber tray) I have now fitted a new regulator I had laying around as the old one did show some signs of heat damage to the epoxy back around the wiring area. Do you think my keeping the bike on a trickle charger has caused this or my not conditioning the new battery or a faulty reg or all of the above? Ciao

I've removed seals from quite a few double sealed bearings to use in engines when I didn't have the non sealed types and always found them to be adequately greased. I mean it cant hurt to do as you suggested I suppose. Ciao

A new double sealed bearing will already be greased. Ciao

They come up for sale regularly. Ciao

I can check for you docc,I have one down in the garage. My plan was to upgrade the bike to the later tail(purely for weight savings) and the later in tank pump tank and get the whole lot painted.Problem is I cant use the later tank now with the Daytona engine as you loose too much steering lock and its reduced already. Oh and for those interested the in tank pump tanks are 20mm longer from the front mounts to the front of the tank. From the front mounts to the rear mounts is the same. So they extended the front of the tank when they went to the longer frame. I suspect if you fitted the later tank to the earlier frame you would lose some steering lock as well. Ciao

Yep that's what I'm referring too. I refer to it as a seat cowl just because its just a decorative cowl piece and really has nothing to do with the seat as such. The factory call it a "tail" or "rear fairing" depending on the model,earlier or later. This is the earlier one you're after up till 2002 by the parts manual. This is the 2002 and onwards. Ciao

At least the valves wont have any trouble exiting when the inevitable happens Ciao

The changeover for the seat cowls was 2002. So you can fit the later type post 2001 to earlier if you have the additional mount rail and the plastic rear compartment as opposed to the plastic bag arrangement. Ciao

Yes I have a later tail piece and the latch brace to fit to my Greenie one day. Its way lighter than the original. Ciao

I'm betting it wasn't a grade 8 bolt. Ciao

I feel seasoned ,that's for sure. If you want to see how to lets say mature with style check out this story on Mal Campbell ( its from 8 years ago but interesting none the less). I caught up with him as usual at the Phillip Island classic last weekend and he's still mighty fast on his RC30 Honda Superbike. I didn't get a chance to get the watch on him but from memory last year he was doing 1:41's and still looks as fast. The quickest he's ever been around PI was in the 1:36's when we did the 98 world supers. So that was 22 years ago on a faster bike, impressive. Don't want to do a disservice to Mal but he's a bit older than me and I'm 61. Love seeing the older racers still getting around quick and he looks totally safe and smooth. http://www.motorsportretro.com/2012/05/interview-mal-campbell/ Ciao

Kinda sounds like it Pete but they are usually pretty reliable aren't they? Ciao

Get rid of that clutch for starters and pull the selector plate off the gearbox and have a look at the springs. The crunching is a by product of miss selection and too much difference in the relative gear rotational speed. Bite the bullet and ditch the clutch though, the risk of an exploding flywheel is too great. Its not like when they fail you just get a bit of clutch slip,what you can get is half the engine/gearbox taken out if it lets go. Then you may as well scrap the entire bike. MG cycle sells a replacement steel single plater. Ciao