Lucky Phil

Galfer front and rear. Front are very common fit listed for V11 and many other bikes inc my 2003 Ducati 1000SS the rear is for some sort of scooter Galfer P/N DF005W. Ciao

Which eccentric was loose Scud, the small one? Glad you got it sorted and the info is valuable. I would still pull the cover and fit the bush though, but thats just me. Ciao

I would try the spare but for the purposes of comparison and information check the differences between the two. As you shift through the gear selections on the bench look at the minimum clearance on the shift pawl arm to the smaller eccentric adjuster shown ctr left on the photo. Make sure it's at least 0.030". 0.040" should be ok as well. Next select the gears one by one while using your fingers to provide a little resistance to the selector wheels and note when the selector wheel drops into the detent whether or not the input arm has contacted the large adjustable stop. You will probably find that in some gears it will hit the stop in one direction befor the selector wheel detents ( meaning the detent arm,roller and spring are actually doing the work of pulling the gear into final mesh, not your foot on the lever) and will be off the stop in the other direction when it detents and if you continue to move the shift lever input arm it will actually start to move the selector wheel back in the direction of de selecting that gear. You need to provide resitance to the selector wheels thought as you do this so they dont snap into the selected position. so you can see whats going on. If there is a big difference between the gears selected positions after this check then adjust the main stop eccentric so that it selects the gears fully with no or minimal overtravel ( or tendency to try and de select the gear). It is very sensative and fiddly which is why you shouldnt do it on the bike. It will probably be a compromise which is why on my other trans I added some weld to the stops to eliminate the compromise. The other reason you MAY have 3rd to 4th issues is that the selector sleeve and/or gear dogs are worn and a little rounded off from missed shifts. When these are worn and have rounded corners then they dont "grab" the next gear as effectivley early in the shift phase and its harder to get a clean shift. Ciao

From a local company Metalgear Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk I still like mine better:) Ciao

Actually, there is more to it than that. There is a thermal shock element, I think. At any rate, baking before welding is a better than good idea. That's somewhat true Chuck, more the mitigation of distortion though I think. The lesser the heat gradient during welding the less distortion. My friend that has vast experience welding Ducati cases showed me how after welding near the main bearing bore the hole became somewhat out of round. The solution?......a hammer and small steel drift and peen around the cases internally adjacent to the main bearing bore and weld and presto tension forces released and bearing bore round again. I have used the clean the cases and warm them up to locate cracks before. The oil will seep out of the crack and is faintly visable. Dye check is way better though. Dont know where the l/h lug crack originates but I do know it has a flat face machined on its outer face with no real radius on it. Anyone confirm if this is where it cracks or is it where the lug joins the main case? Ciao I am pretty clueless what you asking about. Perhaps the photo doesn't answer your question. If you follow the face of the lug ( the machined face where the frame member clamps onto) down towards the body of the case from the rounded top there is a small step created by the process of machining the face flat. It then steps out to a wider cast step ( where your fingernail appears to be resting) and then again to the main body of the case. Is the cracs origin at the first small ( maybe 2mm wide) step caused by the machining the lug face? Ciao

Actually, there is more to it than that. There is a thermal shock element, I think. At any rate, baking before welding is a better than good idea. That's somewhat true Chuck, more the mitigation of distortion though I think. The lesser the heat gradient during welding the less distortion. My friend that has vast experience welding Ducati cases showed me how after welding near the main bearing bore the hole became somewhat out of round. The solution?......a hammer and small steel drift and peen around the cases internally adjacent to the main bearing bore and weld and presto tension forces released and bearing bore round again. I have used the clean the cases and warm them up to locate cracks before. The oil will seep out of the crack and is faintly visable. Dye check is way better though. Dont know where the l/h lug crack originates but I do know it has a flat face machined on its outer face with no real radius on it. Anyone confirm if this is where it cracks or is it where the lug joins the main case? Ciao

Maybe the guy has never done this on a V11 before, so his mind is not clouded by *conventional wisdom* and really has found a great way to get the gearbox out&in with minimal wrenching? Sign of brilliance . . . Yes, rather clever. The only thing connecting the rear wheel assembly to the frame is the brake line. I would not have thought it possible to get the tranny out without at least somehow disconnecting the engine from the frame. He will need to be careful getting the swingarm pivots threaded back in without stripping the threads, mine are very fiddly without all that wheel and stuff hanging on to the arm Ciao

Depending on stock, etc.. that price is *easily* beatable. Dont know that this part would fit the V11. The original V11 p/n is 01202830. Ciao That diagram is for a 1995 Sport (1100) and is the correct part: GU37202805 Gearbox connecting plate Let me check my records on the part number I posted to be sure it is not a dealer stocking number or a mistake. edit: The dealer invoice from 5 Feb 2004, only says "bracket" and "item number" 01202830. ($18.75US back then!) So, I am not convinced that is the actual Moto Guzzi part number. It is Docc, straight from the parts manual for a 1999-2000 V11 Ciao

Depending on stock, etc.. that price is *easily* beatable. Dont know that this part would fit the V11. The original V11 p/n is 01202830. Ciao

Thanks Docc, I got both the size and material wrong, doh Ciao

Ok cool, looks like I was wrong about the size and material of the original plate, sorry. Ciao

As I mentioned in my selector rework thread I would never attempt to adjust the excentric on the bike,its way too sensitive for that.Try pulling it off and adjusting it on the bench. It adjusts the relationship between the shift stop and gear selector travel. I found that you can actually adjust it so that in some gears it will underselect the gear and conversly overselect another and fully select the gear and then start to actually pull it out of gear before detenting. It's then up to the gear dogs to drag it fully back into engagement.Try pulling it off the trans, put it on the bench and run through the selecting and you will see the relationship I'm talking about and see how it is in the 3rd to 4th selection. If its not great then adjust the eccentric to optimise this pair even if it compromises another pair a little. I actually added some weld to the stops on one of my transmissions. Hows it up shift 3rd to 4th without the clutch Scud? Ciao

8MM is within a couple of thousandths of 5/16" I've found 5/16"X 4" so far.. 5/16 would work over 8mm I guess. I came to the 8mm decision only by guesstimation based on the original looking like it's 4mm steel and the ally because it's easier to work. From all accounts its tight working in there and I wouldnt like to make a bunch of them without proving the 8mm concept first. How many would be interested in a plate like this? Ciao

It "may" be but the sport used the 5 speed gearbox and the 6 speed engine trans is offset a little in the frame ( 10mm from memory) Ciao

Ok yep, I'm just so time poor at the moment was looking for a quick couple of hours in the shed solution. Dont feel like the complexity of modding the gearbox case for the seperate subframe of the later bikes. Guess I can always make one from 8mm alloy plate if I can ever get this bathroom construction finished. Calling Chuck, 8mm ally plate with a nice relief machined in the visable face? how many are we going to need to make it viable? Ciao

Sorry no the one Docc showed on post 36 of this thread. Ciao

Anyone got one of these transmission plates they could sell me or know where I can get one before I hassle around making one? Not available anymore from my parts supplier. Ciao

Very good, look forward to the pictures. Ciao

Yep, they look perfect. Ciao

Ok whats happened here is due to the gasket not making contact at all the oil hasnt been able to push open the filter reverse flow rubber diaphram and due to the oil flow being from the outer to inner of the filter it would remain empty. Ciao

Yes it could also have another one on the other side of the ball but I didn't have one in my oring box. I use the same on my Ducati1000ss which has a horizontally mounted Ohlins steering damper which due to the changing angles during steering needs to rotate radially as well. Due to the horizontal fitment at straight ahead it can flop about so I fit an oring on both sides of the ball which holds it firm but also allows it to compress the orings a little as it moves radially maintaining function. Its all of course totally optional but if you can limit the unnecessary movement the bearing life will be improved. Ciao

This float is present on the 2 gearboxes I have, the one in service and my good spare. This output drive shaft float wont have any effect on the shifting as its simply a spur gear driven shaft with a shock absorbing coupling. Ciao

So, if I understand correctly, those spacers are free to turn? Strange.. They shouldnt rotate Chuck. I've had a Rossopuro arm on my bike for years and when I installed it I shimmed the spacers to the bearing inner ball so when the bolt was torqued up it wasnt trying to flex the two brackets together. clearly flexing of the cast brackets isn't desireable but as we know you need to "fettle" a Guzzi. Even aftermarket specific stuff needs "fitting". I also fitted an Oring of just the right size to one side of the ball that bears on the spacer to put a little resistance on the radial rotation of the arm, just to stop the tendence for it to rock around when there's no need to. I'll get a picture when I get a chance. Ok so working from L to R ( top to bottom) is the bracket the spacer then a thin steel shim to eliminate the squeeze,then the inner ball then on the other side the ball again with an oring that sits on the spherical face of the ball to control rod radial rotation a little and cushion the bearing if it does rotate around to its limit then the spacer and the mount bracket. My advice to anyone that needs a new arm is to buy yourself a Rossopuro one or go to the local machine shop with a piece of say 18mm ally rod and get them to chuck it up drill and thread each end for male rod end bearings go and buy youself a pair and fit it up. The machining process will take about 15 minutes, job done. Ciao

Sometimes the system just gets an air lock and wont prime. As a last resort if you're too worried about 15 or 20 seconds of light on before you shut it down you can pull the front cover off the engine take the oil pump drive gear off and use a piece of rubber FI hose on the pump shaft and a battery drill to spin the pump and prime the system. Lot of work though. Ciao

Received my new gearbox OEM seals the other day and they are apart from looking like they've been on a dusyt shelf for 50 years identical to Scuds in design. Now to get some time to remove the generic one and install the oem. Hopefully to last longer than a couple of thousand K's. Ciao