Lucky Phil

Pete I was listening recently to a well known radio presenter that had come up with an inovative design for something and when he investigated the possibiltiy of going into production the professional advise he got was that it wasnt worth the effort as within 6 months a cheap Chinese copy would be on the market and his wouldnt sell. Talk about killing inovation and invention. Ciao

whats this about, ie what parts and why is it an upgrade? New cover with extra excentric adjuster, the shifter pawl, a banana shaped link the joins the two gear wheel pins as in a previous photo on this thread,new springs and a few other bits and pieces. Naturally doesnt come with the shifter shaft seal fitted to the cover or included. Will report on the outcome when I fit it up. My gearbox shift lever sometimes semi sticks for a fraction and you feel it tap the top of your boot after the shift has been done. I've already changed the shifter springs so this upgrade with additional adjustment and extra support for the selector gear pivot pins should shift better...I hope. Ciao

Just received my upgrade cover and shifter kit. Now I just need the time to install it. Ciao

So it went from .015mm which is way to tight to 3.0mm,is that right? Any valve that picks up nearly 3mm of clearance in 1000klms has obviously got major issues most likely a wiped out lifter and cam lobe. Why on earth would you even bother to adjust it. it needs the head pulled off and the lifters inspected for damage. Ciao

That's not a flange, it's a washer. Aha. Well I will try again! I thought it looked like a washer too, but it wouldn't come off... I will coax it off and see if I have a thin walled socket to fit. Thanks! Because the washer is thing the dome nut will have crushed it a little and it will have deformed into the threads. You'll need to grab the OD with some pliers and screw it off. Ciao

No Ciao

I have 2 low mileage bevel boxes and both have play in the front bearing. adjusting the ring nut didnt have any impact on the play. Have used both of them and it doesnt seem to be an issue but when I rebuild the spare if a new bearing doesnt remove the play I will attempt to shim it out with some home made shims if possible. To check whether the play is in the small internal needle bearing or the outer needle/ball hybrid just grip the input shaft and apply a longitudinal rotational force to it to load up the inner bearing then at the same time try to move the shaft up and down vertically. If you can still feel play at the end you are gripping then the play is in the outer bearing,if not its the inner.Both mine are in the outer bearing and from memory I calculated it at around 0.0015" radial which I can live with. I'd rather it be less but it is what it is. Ciao

You are going to be a very unhappy Guzzi owner if you think a leaking fork seal is a "big problem" believe me. Try using a seal mate before you pull the fork apart, it may have just rolled the seal during transport. Ciao

I bought mine fromMG cycles about 3 years ago Ciao

Is this the crossover without the support bracket? If so i'd steer away. Ciao

Hey guys all good info thanks. I'm still rebuilding the heads for my engine but work and family commitments are making the progress slow. Ciao

I believe that although the TPS's differ physically they give the same voltages per rotational degrees so it's just a connector issue. I have a MY15m ecu for my conversion and I spoke to Cliff a few years ago about the maps and at that time he didn't have a map specifically for the V10 but said customers had used the base V11 map as a starting point and it was quite close to the mark. Ciao

Hey Gritman well done. Please keep us updated on the tuning process. Ciao

Yes I went with the stucchi on the strength of that report. Ciao

Interesting thread and ill pass on a related tip. My ST2 had very vauge steering and after I had done a few thousand KLMs on it ( it was bought this way from a friend)it developed an annoying habit of variable front brake lever freeplay. Thinking I had a master cylinder on the way out i was prepairing to replace that and decided on a new front tyre to correct the vauge steering. When I pulled the front wheel the wheel bearings were toast. Not bad enough to be scary but enough to give about a millimeter of play at the rim. This was causing the brake pads to be pushed back into the calipers under diffewrent conditions( so when you pulled up in a straight line at the lights the pads supported the bearings and you had decent lever when you tried them when stopped. Go around a corner and then brake and the lever had freeplay again after the disks had pushed the pads back due to the wheel movement) it was also the reason for the steering issues. Just something to bear in mind for the future. New wheel bearings fixed both issues completely. Ciao

Do you know manufacturer? Agostinis website shows a piece similar to yours, but with a mount plate fitted: http://www.torquepowermotorcycles.com.au/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=75&product_id=111 Stucchi x-over that I have (below) is basically 2 tubes. It also has a mountplate: Yes mines the Stucchi with the support, no issues with mine. I personally wouldnt use the non support type. Ciao

You need to get off the bike more and get some value out of those knee scrapers and save the side stand. Get your toes on the pegs and tuck your feet in to keep your boots off the deck. Try some road race boots as well, those big clod hoppers wont offer you much feel through the pegs. Ciao

Im sure Agostini's will look after you, Ive had good dealings with them in the past Ciao

Well Rich its nice to hear your rider has a lot of experience at the Island because that counts for a lot. Slow steering old buses like 70's and 80's Guzzies may seem like a great thing for the Island but if you get it wrong at some point then its hard to get them back on line. The lazy steering can get you into trouble. Ciao

What, up against TT2 and F1 Ducatis? dream on my friend. Ciao

I was at the TT twice in the eighties as a mechanic and pit crew. Ciao

Probably why they got they're butt kicked at Daytona in the BOTT.Oh wait ,they won. This is what you want http://www.odd-bike.com/2013/03/moto-guzzi-mgs-01-cooking-goose.html but a built up Daytona would be within reach and quite competent in a Classic race. I like the way Americans and others for that matter think that BOTT has some sort of ranking in the greater world of international racing. Its an amateur racing series and interesting for that but its many many levels below professional racing and thats what I judge a machine from. Is it competative at the TOP professional level in its day, or not. Its like Dr Johns Guzzi's, loved the storiy and the man for his passion and engineering and what he achieved with what he had ( everybody loves an under dog) but really it was winning what?, some US endurance series. Not exactly the hight water mark in international racing. So the people are amazing as is their effort but at the end of the day their race bikes really havent cut it with the big boys. Ciao

Well the IOM taught me that you need a bullit proof reliable bike with forgiving handling that the rider wont be fighting the whole way around because it will wear him out and then he will make errors that may kill him. Oh and an engine that you think is reliable at club or even national short circuit level may well not be at the island. Wide open down Sulby Straight for miles skipping off the bumps destroys engines and transmissions. Not really the place to indulge your abandonment of reason. Just my opinion mind. Ciao

There's a reason there isnt many guzzi's at the TT, have a guess. I'll give you a few clues to get you started.......... fat,slow,shaft drive, handle like pigs. That should get you on the right track. Ciao

I'm still working on the engine rebuild which is pretty much covered up to the cylinder heads with the exception of having the crank lightened and balanced. I'm going to run the RAM clutch assy as well but leave it stock except for the usual blue print job. I've also got the steel joe caruso cam and oil pump drive gears with the German oil pump upgrade. Parts are getting scarce these days and I've had to have the cylinders re nikasiled myself and new pistons. I'll get the cams and lifters gas nitrided and I have new valves to fit and k-line the guides which are seriously worn. can you believe one of the guides in one of my heads had 0.030" clearance!!!!! plus I need to replace a couple of exhaust seats as well so its a bit of a process. I'm also looking at some extra oil feed to the cam lobes to help with the wear these engines suffer from and converting the lifters over to the system the Later Grisso engines use to actuate the rocker. I'm not looking for horsepower just a sweet and reliable engine. A V11 isnt a sports bike by modern standards, so for me its just my fun road bike. Thanks for the tip in the fuel reg,I have 4 new fuel tanks here and the plan was to install one of the later in tank pump versions as I think they have cleaner and simpler plumbing so the reg shouldnt be an issue but plans may change. I think Ill paint it silver with the std red frame etc. The engine will be installed in the Green V11 you see in my avatar. I can post some pics of the engine if you like when I take some photos of it. I need to document the build anyway so I'll get them done. Ciao