Lucky Phil

This looks good docc. Lighter by a long way, smaller and more grunt than an Odyssey. The MHTX16 would suit the V11. https://www.motobatt.com/assets/documents/Catalogues/Motobatt_HYBRID.pdf Ciao

There's no difference with the extension as it's not above the master cylinder. You're still pushing air down hill just the same as without the extension, same as bleeding brakes. The clutch bleed extension just makes it less tricky to access the bleed point. If you're bleeding the clutch or brakes for that matter from scratch the easiest way is a syringe full of fluid, say 250ml and some plastic hose and fill the system from the Slave at the bottom. You can buy a plastic syringe for next to nothing. What most people fail to do ( esp on bikes with clip on style bars) is remove the master from the handlebar and tilt it so air trapped in the connection between the master and the hose is lower than the reservoir. Gently work the brake/clutch lever just to the point of take up and out comes the air. Or tap the lines with a screwdriver and the same happens. You'll never get that trapped air out with bleeding unless you use a big commercial powered pressure bleeder. Invest in a manual home workshop pressure bleeder (they are like $75US for a good one) as they are far superior to a vacuum pump/method and you can use it on your cars as well. The other advantage of a pressure bleeder for brakes is it removes the requirement to push the brakes full travel when doing a "manual" bleed which on an older car/bike keeps the master cylinder seals away from the area of the cylinder bore that doesn't normally get used which can have accumulated some corrosion and roughness. Ever manually bled a brake system only to find the master cylinder seals fail shortly thereafter? Thats the reason. If you flush you're clutch and brakes regularly you never need to bleed them anyway. Ciao

Ciao

There is no downside to running the lowest W number you can in your climate John as long as it's a full group4 synthetic. The lower the W figure the better, that's why just about everything I own runs on Mobi1 0W-40. Heavier W grades are only a factor in mineral based oils that suffer from shear down. Ciao

Yes docc, I cant remember which colours my bike has now but I seem to recall there wasn't a black. Maybe the Allison diagram is wrong. Ciao

I think docc it's less confusing to identify the wires as earth, Input ( 5 volt power supply) and output (the variable voltage seen by the ECU so it knows what the throttle angle is) All the positive, negative etc seems confusing to me as there are actually 2 positives, one a variable and one not. So Violet is earth Yellow is Supply Violet/Black output. BTW the 99 V11 doesn't have the Violet as an earth according to the WD, it's black. Ciao

Re check your work esp the filter fitment. The 5W-40 isn't too thin as the CTS at 100deg C is still the 40 weight equivalent which is adequate. I've run my bike on 0W-40 Mobil1 for 10 years with no issues. Other things to consider, an oil pressure relief valve that's not seating correctly(you can disassemble it insitu and clean it) the a LOP switch that's not the correct part (they differ in their thresholds) although they fit and maybe your engines close to the lower limit on oil pressure at hot idle. As Pete pointed out it's probably time to swap out the switch anyway. Having said all that I had a friend years ago that had the same issue on a Mk4 Le Mans after changing to a lower grade oil and he solved the problem by going back to a 20W-50. It shouldn't really be necessary but the 20W-50 can band aid over other issues and if the bikes running ok then that's fine for some people. The 50 weight gives you a little more hot oil pressure headroom on the switch setting. Ciao

https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/category-s/1666.htm Ciao

Even better. " Air miles are owing but they dont come for free, and they don't give you any for pain" Brilliant. This ones a "motorcycle" song. Ciao

Turning down the end of the pushrod is a 2 minute job. It's not the feel of engagement I'm interested in it's the better shifting and faster engine response. The Guzzi now feels more "Ducati" in the response to the throttle which is only a better thing. You don't need to roll the throttle anymore during a downshift, just flick it and the engine responds immediately. Makes downshifts far better and also much better on the upshifts as well. Ciao

RAM units will fit either bike 5 or 6 speed, the only difference being the gearbox input drive spline. It's my belief you can easily modify the twin plate input spline to suit the 6 speeder single plate anyway. The clutch high wear issue was dealt with years ago and was primarily an issue with the std Guzzi plate. I think from memory Pete had a RAM unit in a race bike that wore quickly but thats a race bike. The modern RAM clutches are now light weigh units with a steel flywheel. After you've used an Alloy RAM clutch it would be hard to go back to the Guzzi twin plate boat anchor for me. Every aspect of engine and gearbox performance is far superior with the lighter clutch. Ciao

I don't quite understand this. Do you mean any bike Guzzi come up with needs to better the Guareschi bike? If so then thats not a valid position. Anyone with the fabrication skills can come up with a motorcycle that is basically a "track day" bike only. It's doesn't need to meet any road bike criteria of any kind whatsoever and on top of that this particular bike with it's mile long wheelbase, shaft drive and weight would get it's arse handed to it in a competitive race track situation by a decent rider. If you like this sort of narrow focus bike, fair enough but it can't be compared to a bike that needs to meet road regulations, emission regulations and be fit for mass production and sale to the general public. The Guareschi bike also uses an old air/oil cooled engine that won't pass euro5 emission regs. In other words this bike is pretty much a show pony for a very narrow motorcycle niche market. The real genius in motorcycle sports bike design is designing a package that can be cutting edge on a race track and yet saleable and street rideable to the average road rider even if he can't use anything like it's full potential. In other words the devils in the detail as usual. The modern hyper sports bike is an amazing piece of engineering. Ciao

Why wouldn't you use a new RAM unit at around $750US. Two thousand British pounds is around $3700AUD. I'd part the bike out before I paid that sort of money. Ciao

I only bought it for the Manual ability. I have "nanny" chargers that won't charge a battery if it's below about 10.5 volts which are annoying. Use this one on "manual" to get them back up to a decent state of charge then switch it to "auto" seems to work OK. Not sure about how or if the Lithium setting works on this charger as they require a constant amperage and variable voltage. Ciao

I recently bought this "cheapy" off ebay ( around $35AU so about 2 cents US) specifically because it had a "manual" setting. It's brought the Odyssey back up to full charge from 5 volts but the capacity seems poor. Now on manual it will punch 16 volts into it and just a few amps so I'm not using the manual mode anymore. I'm trying to drop the voltage down with a load and hit it again. It supposedly does Lithium Iron batteries as well. HMM not so sure about that.

A question for those more electrically inclined than I. My Odyssey battery has dropped it's bundle again I think due to inactivity and a faulty Reg. I noticed when I pulled it to install the Daytona engine it had been leaking a small amount of fluid. This also happened with the previous one as well and I thought I had solved the apparent overcharging with modifying the wiring to the headlight to prevent the typical voltage drop and the false voltage sensing experienced by the Reg. Apparently not it seems so I fitted the new ELE std wiring REG I already had and cleaned up the battery and installed it and it all seemed good. Looked at the battery voltage yesterday and it was 5 volts. I'll try and recover it per this thread and use it as a garage battery and buy a new one. So the question is when I do that i'll also try and buy an approved odyssey charger as well. I have an ac to ac step down adaptor I've been using on hand tool battery charges for years and it's rated as follows Input AC 240Volts 50/60 Hz Output AC 120 Volts 50/60 Hz Power 500VA I figure that this unit can support a 12 volt output 110V input USA charger and support around 41 amps current draw. Is this correct? Or am I mis calculating? Just confirming so I can look at the possibility of buying an approved Odyssey charger from the states. Ciao

Often especially for the round wire a small jewellers screwdriver is best or a pick with a similar flat end. A round pick on a round wire end doesn't work well although a pick or driver with a flat end on a round wire works much better. Ciao

Use a small pick (preferably brass) to pull the end of the wire out of the groove and with these you can carefully allow them to unwind out of the groove. Best if you can grab the end with a pair of needle nose pliers and guide it out as often the ends are just cut off and have a sharp edge which can scratch the alloy housing if not held clear. Or you can just slip a feeler gauge in there on the end to protect the housing as you uncoil it out of the groove. Hold the leg securely though and initially stick some masking tape over half the opening in case the initial action flicks it out. If its a flat section clip its a lot more difficult. Once you have one end out of the groove use a small jewellers drive and some protection on the alloy to gradually extract it . Bit like removing a tire, compress, wedge, compress, wedge. Usually by the time its half way out it can be released. Or once one end is out you can sometimes grab it with needle nose pliers and pull the end enough to get the ring to compress and feed it out. It has to be a fairly weak clip for this though. Ciao

I can't see the details doc but it looks like a wire not a circlip? In the video removing a large Circlip that way is just horrible. You almost certainly distort the clip so it cant be re used and at the same time bur up the edges of the groove it seats in. Big clips like that are tricky to deal with but here's a tip. The component in the video can be held down on the bench with a pair of simple padded QR carpenters clamps so you aren't chasing the thing all over the bench while dealing with the Circlip. Or you can use another methodology. I would have used a pair of straight pliers and when you get a portion of the clip out you just slide a loose feeler gauge down the side of the clip to hold it out of the groove and repeat if you need to. The clip needs to be compressed as much as possible so it clears the entire groove and then you extract it. Its often not that easy but a little patience and technique and you can definitely do it with more skill and finesse than that bloke. I'm honestly amazed at the level of skill and workmanship people put on the net for the world to see and not be embarrassed. Skill levels and standards out there are VERY low. Ciao

Yes a video on how to NOT remove a Circlip. Ciao

Or a RAM unit. Ciao

A mistake. Ciao