Lucky Phil

The expensive part of painting is the prep. I'm of the mind that if you can strip and prep it to the point of the colour and clear coat application then the cost should be reasonable. If you can find a painter that agrees with my logic. Ciao

Sounds good Pete, bring it on. Ciao

Yes works both ways. I do it this way because that's how I've always done it on the race track, before quick shifters were around. Load the lever on the upshift then flick the throttle and leave the clutch for a "race shift". It wasn't for the lap time but so my left wrist survived. Downshifts of course need the clutch but loading the lever that way on the Guzzi makes for a better shift. As an aside Troy Bayliss never even used the clutch on downshifts when he race his 996/998/999 Corse factory bikes in WSB until Tardozzi pulled him up about it cause it was costing the factory too much in transmissions. used to destroy the shifter forks. Ciao

You'll need to bead blast all the paint off and dry the tank out then preferable line the inside. The bead blasting leaves a really good finish for paint to adhere to but there are plastic primers for the task. Every car bumper is plastic these days. Its a pointless exercise patching a tank on a motorcycle as by the time you prep the tank for blending you've painted most of it anyway. Personally I can't see a good painter having an issue matching the paint. I've got a belly pan and several side covers that have been re painted and they are all a very good match. Ciao

There's nothing "careful" about it, it's just a technique. Same as the starting process for a Guzzi or Ducati big twin, if you know the process it works well, if you dont it works less well. Ciao

That's Jodie Comer from the series Killing Eve. Ciao

I've had this discussion before at length docc. In 35 years of using a LOT of CF parts on bikes and on top of that in aviation I've never experienced it. It's another one of those Theory V practice things you come across regularly. I've always taken the view that theory has it's place especially when you're designing something or have zero practical experience in the area but I've generally sided with what is demonstrated to work in actuality over being a slave to the theory. As I said my experience demonstrates it's not an issue, for me at least. On an ocean going racing yacht with a CF hull and aluminium mast in a permanent salt water environment I might show it some concern, but on a bike, no. Ciao

Either you have faulty test leads or the TPS's are slipping on the shaft. Hows the shaft engagement on the TPS. If you remove the TPS and rotate the throttle does the shaft section that goes into the TPS rotate? Unlikely to be a broken shaft. From what your figures are showing you have no TPS rotation OR no real voltage to the TPS. What is the voltage between the 5 volt supply from the ecu and ground? Just for clarity 381MV's is 0.381 Volts. All you are doing is changing the resolution on the multimetre. Ciao

Yes thats true, but it's a pretty low bar. The Ohlins design for the V11 Sport/Le mans has been around for 35 years, since the mid 1980's. I had one on my old 851 Ducati. You buy a new shock now and you get maybe not the latest technology but a hell of a lot later then that. The Wilbers on mine was built to suit my needs hence I needed to wait about 6 weeks to get it. There are other options out there now though. Penske make a nice shock as well. Ciao

Yes and here's one of them, Wilbers alloy body 3 way adjustable damping with remote reservoir and preload adjuster made to my weight and riding style. I dont understand peoples obsession with Ohlins oem spec suspension. There are way better options available at less cost. reminds me of Ducati owners that wont use any other exhaust system than Termignoni exhausts which compared to Akrapovich are complete rubbish. The power of marketing. Wilbers. Remote reservoir with high and low speed compression damping ( blue and red adjusters) and the red spring pre load adjuster knob above. Ciao

So if you slide the throttle body to airbox coupling back into the airbox and look down the throttle body inlet and turn the throttle full open is the throttle blade going to the wide open position? ( you may need to use a mirror) It wont go totally 90 degrees because the blade only goes 87 degrees for full open but it will look pretty much just the edge of the blade pointing back at you. Ciao

Ok, all information that should have been revealed from the start. Some people don't use a cable adaptor but spike the wires. So we have one bike with what now appears to be 5 TPS sensors all of which could have been fitted at some time in the past. Is this right? Ciao

Here's one for those people that say I never do anything. Me pushing our rider off again after a pit stop in the Senior race. John Williams is putting the re-fuelling gear back and the two guys in the red black and yellow are the marshals that give the bike a look over during the pit stop and make sure there are no mechanical issue. If there is they wont let you leave the pits until it's rectified. I didn't like the re-fuelling job just in case I gave the rider a crutch full of fuel. I stuck to the clean the screen and/or change the visor and give the bike a look over. We didn't need a tyre change. And here he is under the paint flat out past the pits lining it up for the run down Bray hill at probably 160 mph on a flying lap. Not a great image behind the fuelling churns. My memory of all the riders going past here wide open a meter away flat on the tank looking through the fly spattered screen is one I'll never forget. Imagine the commitment of pointing the bike down Bray hill between the curbs flat out, needing the line to be near perfect, especially the boys on the big factory bikes. Like threading the needle at 180 mph plus with the consequences of getting it wrong not bearing thinking about. Respect. MotoGP riders, not quite in the same league. Ciao

No docc around 4.9-5.0 volts not 490-500MV. The reference voltage is 5V and full travel one way ( towards throttle closed) will be zeroish and fully the other way ( WOT) will be around zero resistance so 5 volts/ish. Ciao

Great illustrator docc, I'm so envious of people with artistic talent as i have none. I'm a very harsh marker of motorcycle books I'm afraid. Any technical mistake and it's dead to me. No point telling an historical story with the factual errors. Same as it's pointless reading Biography's of world leaders until all the official documents have been released after 50 years. Read recently a Bio on Churchill and was reminded of this. I'm currently being educated on WW2 fighter aircraft which I had a passion for as a boy. Now with the internet I'm actually learning a lot of actual facts about them and WW2 that just wasn't available at that time. Changes things quite a bit in reality. Ciao

Sounds to me like you may be checking the wrong TPS wires. I believe WOT that gives zero voltage is because you are checking the voltage between the 5v input and the earth instead of the variable output and the earth. So at idle you will have your 330mv and as you open the throttle the voltage will decrease instead of increase. If this is happening you are checking the wrong wires. If that's not the issue then you have a bum TPS. I don't have a wiring diagram for the EV11 but the wiring colours are different between the earlier and later v11's and with the earlier PF09 TPS my bike uses the sensor or output wire isn't the centre pin as it is with the PF03 TPS's. Ciao

If it were mine John I'd make a mould of the upper fairing and then abbreviate and style it to blend in to expose the engine then make a new version. You might need to fabricate some additional brackets. I'd then store the original fairing. Ciao

Fausto Gresini has just succumbed from Covid. Ciao

Me to. Ciao

No, there're better. Ciao

Not applicable to bikes with the floating bevel box, aka V11 and Daytona, Centauro, Sport 1100 etc. Ciao

Good info John, but one important data point missing. Oil viscosity and type? Full synthetic or semi synth? Grade? BTW I'd leave the belly pan off myself. Looks good and will cool better. Confirm this is with the 1100 Sport PRV without the spacer? Ciao