LowRyter

I'm 5'10" with a 30 in inseam and have no trouble. Of course, I could lose a few (dozen) pounds.

I might try an 1157 and see if it is a better fit.

the 2057 is the correct bulb?

I just replaced the VR on the Greenie recently. I was talking to an old hand Guzzi guy and he said those Ducati VRs were good for about 20k miles. I told him my Sport just rolled over 45k and my EV has 65k on them. He said that he'd bet they both were replaced before I bought them. Anyway, I guess I'll prepare for the EV to fail next.

My tail light bulb doesn't seat well. I had to fiddle with it and it mostly didn't work. I doubt I'll get a mile down the road with it. The Brake light seems to work most of the time. I'll screw with it tomorrow but any hints would be appreciated.

I am surprised to hear that. when I saw this on WG I assumed you were talking about a California.

I am here with my V11............it just turned over 45k miles today. Perhaps a little more since the Veglia was a little glitchy before it was fixed.

well, a Scura has all the mechanicals and electricals of my Sport, expect for the exploding clutch and finicky suspension that needs expensive maintenance every few thou$and miles. And of course, the Scura also needs to be painted since it only came in primer from the factory but there's nothing can be done about the ugly nose. .. .. The Greenie is still the prettiest, best sounding bike on the road, handles great too. Unfortunately, it is, however, horsepower challenged.

Thanks Docc, you might have given me a partial solution to my V11's "cough" at low revs. My previous fix didn't work. I've done the basic tune. My latest theory is vapor-lock in the lines at low flow. I purchased some DEI Fire Wrap for the fuel line from Summit racing to add another layer of insulation - just in case. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-010477/ I couldn't figure out which line was the supply and which was the return so I wrapped both. One thing I noticed was the crossover was very tight underneath the airbox. I wonder if the line became pinched there after I removed & cleaned the 1/2 cup of oil out of the airbox. So this weekend I've got new chores for the V11. Pull the tank and airbox check & reroute the fuel line, if there's room put some fire wrap between tranny and fuel line at the crossover. I know other's don't have this "cough" because the bike is actually unrideable when hot and 100+ temps with nasty traffic is common in California. I apologize to all for thread-jacking. Mark I think most V11s just have a cough when lugged. If you look at the the Dyno chart that was posted, the torque falls into a hole at about 2k rpm and then goes jumps back up and goes strong. The dyno chart on my bike was identical to the one posted here.

Since I haven't ridden it in the evening for some time, I would bet it was out at the Ozarks. I should ask someone following me if the tail light was on.

better check ...... whew.

update. culprit was chaffed wire for one of the instrument lights.

I don't suppose anyone has found a plastic or nylon sock for it?

little bros............ I bought a camaro, he bought a new one in the same color, then I bought a red 'vette, he bought new red 'vette. He also got an exclusive 6 cyl Beemer after I acquired my bikes...... Oh well, he's the top manager running a walmart in the usa. Gotta love him.

good deal

good deal. a buddy was at Cedar Vale last year and his bike wouldn't run. Rodekill, adjusted the valves and he was good to go.

perhaps..... and thank you.

Chuck, I surrendered to humidity and lack of knowledge on the ignition switch. The bike was rideable and rode it to someone better than me. My fear was breaking the switch and that I would never get it started. Docc, the fuse is a 10 amp. IIRC it's the one to the left of the 5 amp, I believe it's the fuel pump. My second cheat was replacing the 5 amp with a 10 amp. It blew the 10 amp (just like the 30 did previously) and totally killed ALL power (again). DEAD, nada,nothing- Might as well not have a battery. I replaced the 10 amp and it runs like a train. I have no idea why a simple 10 amp fuse would kill it, but it did. Someone might take their fuse out and see. Seems bizarre to me. But Don thinks that this is on the path to the main relay. I dunno. Maybe my bike is squirreled up? I hope that my stupidity gives entertainment here. But, I am very appreciative of all the advice along the way and obviously unafraid of ridicule. I just pray there are no Mr Nevada t-shirts. I'd say if my riding skills are 30% and my mechanical ability is a 5, OK, at least a 3%.

I'm taking it to the shop. I've never locked or put the bike in park. I did it to my EV once when I acquired, it was real chancey. Unlike my Suzuki, the Guzzi action is really stiff. Anyway, I tried but didn't force it on the Greenie. I did find the 4w lamp in the headlight reflector and I found similar a 4v bulb at the auto parts store. The little brass spring is POS. The connectors looked good but the old bulb was so brown that couldn't see the filament. (I assume this is a front parking lamp?) Also sprayed the tail light socket, the bulb had both filaments despite my cheater fuse shinheghan. All looks good but it pops fuses. So I am reluctant to get into the ignition switch and whatever else. The bike runs fine but I have one bad circuit. And BTW- cheating this 5 amp fuse will kill the 10amp fuse on the fuel pump circuit which will kill all power on my bike- DEAD, It must stop the #1 power relay?

Thanks for the info. I am going to start on the light in the headlight bucket. I don't recall seeing it when I installed the LED headlight. It could be anywhere or crushed. I'll look for a resettable fuse, should be a big help.

I've never used park mode. So if it's the ignition switch, this might show it? What is the 4 wt dipped lamp? I didn't notice it when I installed the LED headlight.

First time i didn't use a hose clamp.

You might want to see if the fuel line is primed. These bikes have a tendency to vapor lock and "tank suck" as well. Open the gas cap, make sure the tank is close to full. And then prime it with fuel pump. I would bet you still have air in the fuel lines after it ran out of fuel. Mine did that after I was riding in hot weather I forgot and didn't prime the fuel pump and hit the starter. it would run for a second and die. Then I filled the tank it ran fine.

You're probably right Dave, but I know less about electricity than I do oil pressure. And you can see what a fiasco I made out of that.

OK now to work on the fuse. Started the bike, dropped in a fuse, it sparks before I can seat it, and burns up immediately.