LowRyter

UPDATE: Just found them Docc. After all day looking. (They were where I put them but I had thrown out the envelope. Found them in a plastic bag.) Installed and started test ride to tomorrow. Max bags, max shock, minimum fork.

uhhhm Docc........I was afraid that you would ask me that. I can't find them. They are misplaced. I went to install them today but I can't find them. I am still running Pyro Dan's. I cleaned everything with contact cleaner. I feel awful, Docc. I was hoping you wouldn't ask. But I am in too deep to lie about it. I have no idea what happened to the envelope. It's not where I thought it was. It's been one of them daze.

no leaks so far. Timing cover gasket and seal replaced. On the other hand, the bike left me stranded. Have a new regulator now, and a flickering neutral light and the thing wanted to die when leaned over on the sidestand for no apparent reason But so far, a clean motor.

it was cutting out when leaning over. I couldn't lean it over that far without the side stand to catch it. When I stood it up it started to run again. When I tried to work on it 5 minutes later, the problem went away and hasn't been back. weird. The "N" flickering came back after I rode it on highway. I noticed it when I stopped at intersections. I put it on the side stand and it ran fine. Problem could not be replicated. weird

no, yes, and no.

Test ride worked ok. "N" light did flicker some after I got off highway. Not sure why. Bike didn't die when leaned on the side stand. All other idiot lights bright and good. All this leaves me uneasy but the ride must go on. You can't fix what's not broken. Played with the shock. The adjusters all work and tension increases as I dial it in. Doesn't seem the make a heck of a lot of difference when I ride it for better or worse. I am going to play with the fork later. And replace the buzzy horn. Speedo still working. I plan to ride it to Harrison next week.

working on the bike this AM. Going to go over connections and fuses and change out relays. First thing, bike starts and neutral light is bright-no flicker. Update: I cleaned and reinstalled the relays and fuses. It appeared that fuse #6, 5 amp was blown. Of course it couldn't have been, since everything appeared working. I am not sure what "Dipped Lights" mean. Replaced it.

The mechanic suspected the clutch switch when the bike hesitated to start when he was working on it previously- something I had never experienced before.mObviously the sitch had nothing to do with the fuel pump not activating which left the bike dead in the first place. So I dunno.

I just got the bike back and it's been a kerfuffle. A new regulator and the clutch kill switch disconnected. Ran fine, rode it home. But first, I take off and the speedo doesn't work. Go back and they found pinion drive to transmission cable in the back of the gravel parking lot (?) perhaps there for weeks. Reinstalled it and glued a cover back over it. Speedo worked for 40 mile ride home and the cover is still glued on. Noticed when I was stopped, the neutral light still flickers. I am guessing that it's just a poor connection. Despite the new spring and rebuilt shock, It still weaves behind semis but now the adjuster works so I'll play around with it. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>.............. The the kicker. >>>>>>>>>>>>> Got it home, idling in neutral, kick the side stand and when I put the bike on the side it starts to miss and dies. Raise it up and it idles fine. But now when I restart it, the fuel pump works and it runs fine when it's upright. When I drop it to the side it cuts out again. So I take off my riding gear, go in the house for 5 minutes. Grabbed an old sparkplug to determine if one or both sides are cutting out but it ran like normal (!). Upright or over on the stand it idles normally. Could it be vapor lock? The bike didn't set for more than five minutes.

I have an EV as well my Sport and hope you can get a Sport engine or modify the EV engine to Sport specs. If you plan on riding it, the Sport engine offers a lot more performance and satisfaction. I am sure the gearing and transmission help too.

well, that's a cute little hugger that might work well in desert around San Diego, I wonder about Merry Ol' England. But for $300 bux US, I might imagine they'd add a shave and a haircut. Maybe it's just a haircut?

yes. Mine did that when the TPS became accidentally unplugged.

it's not clear if you have spark on the failed cylinder. I couldn't follow what you were going with the leads. I find it easy just to pull the boot off and jab in another plug and watch it spark (or not) on the fins on the engine.

Agree, pretty bike.

Scud, what's the order on the hugger? Is it really $300?

Thanks.

which wire on the ignition switch?

cool drone

Roy, the bike is in the shop. I gave the mechanic a copy of your schematic. The battery and charge system was examined and supposed to have been load tested. The guy works on Ducatis and a dealer for replacement electrics. I'll get these instructions to him. thanks

Chuck, I am told it was overcharging and putting out 18v. All the fuses looked good. BTW- I thought I had the ground reinforced when the fuel pump burned out.

It looks like it's the regulator. I know there are some issues about upgrading the alternator to Ducati type. Hopefully there aren't other issues.

I'd love to ride that track. The F1 cars hit 195 on the back stretch, the MotoGp guys hit 210.

Duncan OK?

Stew, for sure need to check connections. Not only didn't it crank, but no fuel pump and dead neutral light.

Seems reasonable Chuck but, Since the bike should start in gear (with the side stand up), why would the neutral switch kill the fuel pump and starter? If it's the sidestand switch, why would that affect the neutral light?