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Everything posted by LowRyter
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It appears I might have a real problem with oil pressure and just stumbled on to the problem of fuse #5. Odd though that it's happened together. (I know that I've used the horn in the last couple of rides and recently replaced the high pitched one.)
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The headlight is on Fuse#5, not Fuse#6 with the Tail Light. but fuse #5 has the oil pressure light?
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Docc, Then I have plenty of problems. If the oil light is on the 15 amp Fuse #5, then it's a seperate problem from Fuse #6 that's blown (!) . I have two problems, the oil sensor and the #6 fuse circuit? ohh boy. That would explain why all those lights work and tail light doesn't. And maybe I don't have oil pressure and problem with #6 fuse circuit? BTW- I have a new voltage regulator and the Chinese LED headlight.
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mark the spinner!
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Mark the spinner, either my way: midnight right side and 3 pm; or Chuck's way: midnight left side and 9 am. this makes it much easier to find the D and S for my tired eyes.
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Nothing wet. Everything else is TBD.
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Perhaps that's correct answer Foto, would a failed sensor also blow the fuse?
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2nd Update. I replaced the tail light. It was likely burned out due to the 30 amp test fuse. But the tail light won't work because I keep blowing the 5 amp dash light fuse. Brake light still works. Odd to me that the dash lights work, the oil light defaults on and tail light won't work. And I am still wondering why the 10 amp fuse for fuel pump kills all electrical power. All other lights and electricals appear to work correctly, lights, brights, signals, brake light, fuel pump and starter. 5 amp dash light fuse blown, oil light stays on and tail light won't come on.
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yes Docc, the instrument panel lights, the other 5 amp fuse is the flasher I believe. The oil pressure light is on and instrument panel 5 amp fuse blows. (I am not inclined to believe that I have an oil pressure issues but am not going to risk it). I still don't understand why the 10 amp fuse on the fuel pump kills all electrical power. .... I just checked the bike. All the dash lights work when activated by switch except for the oil light that stays on regardless. It's odd to me that the dash all lights work when the fuse is out, backwards from my expectation. But you are right about the tail light. It's out but the brake light still works. Next job is to replace tail light.
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UPDATE: Checked the fuses and both 5amp for dash and signals were blown as well as 10 amp for fuel pump. When I replaced the 10 amp got my power back. Bike started, oil light stayed on. 5 amp fuse for dash lights is blown. All other fuses OK. Why did the dead 10 amp fuse for the fuel pump kill everything? What is the deal oil pressure light and the 5 amp dash fuse? BTW- pardon me and thanks for the suggestions.
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I might've killed the whole electrical system now. I was riding, bike was running fine. I needed gas but the gas level light was barely glowing. I get gas and take off and the oil pressure light stays on. Luckily, a good sumaritan with a trailer is right behind me and tows me home. The bike made no clanking sounds. I started it briefly, the oil light stayed on but no bad noises. Checked the dipstick, and OK. So I check the connectors on the oil pressure sensor and play with the fuses and relays. I check the two 5 amp fuses for the dash and signals. They are the kind that aren't transparent so I swap them around and see that moving it kills the blinkers. Thinking it was the fuse, I return the blinker fuse and only have a spare 30 that I plug into the other 5 amp socket. I must've killed the whole thing, nothing. No electrical power whatsoever. The battery is still strong enough to run the mini air compressor, so I don't think it's the battery. Perhaps I killed the computer, ignition switch, or master ground? I really didn't think that a big fuse on the dash lights would ruin anything but I guess it did. And of course, I need to know find the original problem with oil pressure sensor.
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mark the spinner
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there ain't a lot of foot traffic in Cedar Vale. Most of the store fronts are empty. With the largest filled up with memorabilia as a "museum"
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like shaking rocks in a coffee can. "Hey man, I adjusted those valves myself!"
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I prefer to spin the alternator nut to find TDC. BTW- once you have it, mark it on the spinner with a marker. Right side marked at midnight and left side should be at 3:00 pm.
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I think the book sez 20-50 SG. That's why I cheap out and get the Castrol Motorcycle Synth Blend.
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https://www.ticketnetwork.com/en/concerts/tickets/pop/judy-collins/c/99001547?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Concerts&utm_content=c&tnk=GOO-[Concerts]-[Judy+Collins]-[%2BJudy+%2BCollins+%2Btour+-+b]-[c]&gclid=CjwKCAjw6djYBRB8EiwAoAF6oc6bpQ9HL2W1O9mqPRQQzOhpIvlohza89KMTc6_h6c-yyfNkgR1DVhoCCeQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Niho....I see that Stephen Stills and "Sweet Judy Blue Eyes" Collins are on tour together.
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After having my body guy paint them 3 different times, I'd recommend powder coating.
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Makes sense. Had mine disconnected, I really didn't know bikes had clutch switches until encountering my issues. I am not sure why they put clutch switches on bikes in the first place. Neutral and side stand lockout make sense but clutch switch? And yeah. my side stand switch was disconnected on my EV.
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Neutral light out, deploy side stand, bike stalls
LowRyter replied to JBBenson's topic in Technical Topics
Roy, when the bike was "dead", it was dead. The lights worked but the fuel pump didn't go and the starter didn't go. That's dead. The next time it started dying was when I rode it home after repair. The N light flickered and it started to die when I leaned to over on the sidestand. it smelled and acted like it was running out of gas. it finally did die when put full over. I did it a couple of times. I put the bike in the garage and took my gear off, and five minutes later it ran fine. And has ever since. My thinking was vapor lock. After that, I noticed the N light would flicker after riding it for a few minutes. I later examined the N switch under the shifter. I saw some weep from the tranny and pushed on the connector to make sure it was tight and cleaned off the weep. It's been running well and the N light hasn't flickered. probably ridden it 1500 miles since. No problems. Cleaned the bike when I got back from Ozarks and will be monitoring the tranny weep. Been hot here and not comfy to ride. Going for a ride tomorrow night's Barn Night at Bob's. WIll let you know. -
I think I'll stick with the cork and save $75. I might regret it upon use.
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https://www.eurojamb.com/products/veglia-80mm-tachometer-bezel-repair-kit-ducati-moto-guzzi-black and chrome https://www.eurojamb.com/collections/moto-guzzi/products/veglia-80mm-tachometer-bezel-repair-kit-ducati-moto-guzzi-chrome
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sneezing? Could it be the fuel filter?
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Docc, "He's on a mission from Gawd." "How much for the [tachometer]? I want to buy your [tachometers]. SELL THEM TO ME! Sell me your [tachometers]!"