LowRyter

wow. Dumber and dumber. I got the new starter today. My plan was to install it and maybe troubleshoot the old one. I figured for $67 for a new one, I didn't see much downside. The new one looks great BTW. Anyway, I went to take off the old starter and noticed that the top installation bolt was missing and the bottom bolt was loose. I went to Ace Hardware and got a new bolt. I secured the old starter and it started fine. Now I have an extra starter. Think I'll keep it rather than hassle with returning it. I have a new starter if anyone needs it.

The new starter should shipped here for receipt by Monday (free shipping BTW). It's crossed part # to Guzzi #. So I'll cross my fingers. I'll take a shot at servicing the old one. I'm really not riding now due to the heat. I should go back to the mountains.

I haven't a clue Chuck. I might take it apart and clean it up. It's been hesitant to start and needed to be jumped a couple of times lately. I assumed it was the battery. And now this. I ordered a new starter for $67. So I won't have anything to lose by screwing with it.

Dang it, Fubar. I hit it with a hammer and the dang thing started. But it seems like I have to smack the thing anytime I want to start it.

I've really never had a problem with ethanol + gas. Given a choice, I try to avoid it, but I've not had a problem (knock wood).

big crescent wrench maybe? Fubar. I can't wait to see you on a sport Guzzi.

I didn't know that ethanol was a fuel additive in the UK. I thought it was only an American thing to subsidize the domestic corn industry

yeah, it's rattling like a machine gun. rat ta ta ta tat ...... Is that the starter? it's not grinding, so hopefully not the flywheel.

dang dude. you're gettin your share yeah and the weather is just too miserable to work on it. I guess it's too miserable to ride as well.

mine is whizzing and rattling and not starting. Not sure if the it's the battery, the charging or the starter. Had to get push stated home tonight (50 miles one way). Glad I have the link on the starter, $67 vs $267. Thanks Stick. https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/moto-guzzi-starter-0307307110-30730710-30730711.html#replacement-list

I just saw the Dead & Co for two shows, one in Albuquerque and last night in Boulder (the last show of the tour). They rolled out a number of favorites with much of the crowd singing along (fans with more knowledge of the lyrics than me). The place was packed, I would guess a larger crowd than Buffalos have drawn there since the '90s. Two encores, Uncle John's Band and Ripple. The Band was sharp, the jams were controlled. Weds night show was a little laid back by comparison. But a treat to folks in Albuquerque.

looks like the brace from Don? nevermind Don was going for Moto Guzzi, Aprilia and Vespa dealerships last I talked to him.

You might contact this guy https://joellevinecompany.com/Speedo-Tach-Repair

I've never used or even seen Guzzidiag, but I have to wonder how the values in the computer's table was changed and how it's related to your tuneup? And why was only the left cyl affected?

wow. She's a pretty Norton and appears to be running. Double bonus. Docc, Is that the joint where we had breakfast on way to the Raid?

I've used Dunlop Qualifiers mostly on the Sport. They handle well, as good as any (actually better IMO), last about the same (which ain't long) but cost a little less than most of the name brands. The ol' Sport ran through a rear high dollar Road Pilot in about 4k miles. Heck, I usually get 7500 from the Bandit. I'll stick with the Dunlops for now. My advice, talk to your local motorcycle tire guy or ask Mr Google and get the cheapest tire within the range. I doubt it will go fewer miles or handle worse than the expensive alternatives.

Red LeMans absolutely beautiful bike.

I don't know how a 1200 2V Norge compares to the Griso, but there is no way that the Norge I rode has anywhere near the power curve of my V11 Sport. That Norge was tuned like a Beemer, no excitement.

I hope some of you watched the video (above) regarding trail braking. Here's some key points. Trail braking is more practical on the street than on the track. I am not meaning riding on sweepers, really more in everyday driving when making tight turns, intersections and green arrows. What it means is just lightly dragging the brake to the apex of the turn and smoothly transitioning throttle when coming out of the curve. When applying the front brake, as the fork is slightly compressed the wheelbase shortens and the bike is more nimble, in contrast to applying throttle and front end rises, the wheelbase lengthens like a cruiser and the bike gains stability. Most riders are trail braking when they downshift by using engine braking, it's just less controlled and relying on the rear wheel. Not as efficient or as controllable. When I trail brake I do both. On the other hand, if you don't trail brake and coast with the clutch disengaged, then you really aren't in control of your bike with the throttle or brakes. Here's a test. Practice trail braking going around a corner but don't gear down which will minimize engine braking. Then as you brake for the corner, keep light pressure on the brake until you pick up on the throttle. in fact you might have some overlap with braking and throttle. I am not saying to ride like this often but it's just a way to practice trail braking.

those big twins do require a lot of amps to crank that starter.

chicken wire? * *no Finnish content

Got this off Bender. 2003 V11 Sport http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_more_topics_photos_-_moto_guzzi_v11_sport_naked_-2003-.html

I'm off to the mountains next week. First, to Albuquerque and will see the Dead & Co on Weds. Next to Denver and will see Dead & Co in Boulder on Saturday. Pretty crazy.

agree about the valve settings. I mentioned it on WG. It's an easy mistake to set the left side on the exhaust stroke vs compression. It's an easy check and a simple fix.

the red bike? It's homely and heard Scud trashed it out. I'll give you $1000 for it to take it off yer hands before it blows on ya.