Scud

Restraint - the thing you give yourself credit for when you don't do something (not putting in 30-amp fuse holder) and the thing you realize you don't have enough when it's too late (and you find yourself drilling out screw heads to remove your injectors). On the subject of restraint, I had decided to forgo installing the upgraded cam-chain tensioner (credit for restraint) - but then I saw how the crinkle paint was coming off inside the engine case behind the timing chain (restraint overcome by desire to remove contaminants from oil). But to be totally honest, Chuck said the new tensioner would make a cool noise, and I have very little restraint when it comes to cool mechanical noises. And now I'm stuck again... I got the woodruff key out and removed the sliding collar from the middle shaft. But the 32mm retaining nut on the middle gear... the shop manual just says "remove." With what sort of tool? Am I missing something obvious here, or do I have to get a 32mm socket that is about 90mm deep - one that will slide all the way over the end of the crank? I've never seen a socket that deep.

You could close some of the gaps in the swingarm with an old inner tube and some zip ties. Once you like how it works, you can use the inner tube as a template for your plastic. Another way is to rivet the innertube inside the top of the hugger fender - you could make something like a mudflap in there. Dirt bikes have things like that to protect the shock, linkage, and other sensitive parts. Maybe go look at a dirt bike for inspiration.

I was prepared to install a Maxi-fuse holder, but I just don't want to break into anything else right now. I was nervous that I would find signs of overheating, so that was one "bright spot" today. What fun would it be if we all had exactly the same problems? On the throttle-bodies: The injectors came out of my parts bike easily - so I thought they would also come easily out of the Scura (wrong). I think the lower rail is "permanently" loc-tited to the bodies (otherwise it would already be powdercoated).

Some steps forward and some steps back today. Throttle bodies got a deep clean, but the injectors were problematic. Somebody (perhaps the mythical Luigi) got a little overzealous with the loctite and I had to drill out the screws to remove the injectors - then use heat and vice-grips to remove the headless studs.So glad I discovered this challenge now - it would be a royal PITA if the engine was in. Marty told me about this Dow Corning DC-4 electrical insulating compound - all the benefits of vaseline, but tolerates high temperatures and won't melt away. So I've been applying this to connections - did all the relays and fuses today. My 30-amp, stock fuse looks perfect (lucky me). Then I noticed that the marks on my driveshaft were misaligned (by one tooth) - so I got friendly with the rear wheel again... and while I was in there, the shock picked today to start leaking... stream of shock oil running down the spine. So, the shock is out and getting a rebuild while I go out of town again next week. Weird that it just started today. But of all the possible times, right now is about as convenient as a shock leak could ever get. It's never been serviced since new. I was thinking about having it done preemptively, but the dealer said "if it's not leaking, leave it alone." Two weeks after that conversation... it starts leaking. I'm planning to have the forks rebuilt, may as well have the damper serviced while I'm at it so I can forget it about for a while.

Thanks. Footpegs feel about the same as with the original paint.

Tranny is back in, along with fresh powdercoat on: lower subframe, driveshaft collar, rider pegs and brackets, seat lock housing, Lucky-Phil shift extender, and upper throttle body brace. Engine is up next...

If you're going to use stripper, it will probably migrate to the adhesive or the chrome on that little eagle. So I'd suggest removing it, which is easy to do. Heat the inside of the cover behind the badge and pry it off gently. I reattached mine with 3M double-sided adhesive foam tape - just cut it a little smaller than the eagle. It's still holding.

Docc - maybe you need to get yourself a WWII-style Bomber Jacket. Have you been a good boy? I've known a few pilots and been on some small-plane trips. Even though there were interesting parts, and I enjoy the arial view, there are long periods of boring, straight, flight (like riding the Interstate on a motorcycle). But there seems to be lot in common between the two activities - safety-first mindset, traveling light, planning your route (don't run out of fuel), pre-flight/ride inspection, leaning into turns, more consideration of the weather than other forms of travel, etc. Flying and motorcycling are both immersive experiences - requiring a total focus on the task and hyper-awareness of your surroundings.

Well, let's not forget about the PBR and tri-tip. Especially since the PBR is already open and the grill is already clean. My Scura tranny was leaking - and it appears to have been between the rear cases. In my case, I found some loose fasteners - maybe you can get in there and snug up everything you can reach. The bummer on mine was that the loose fasteners were under the rear cover (which is a time-intensive area to access).

Well... I don't want to take too much credit here. I just found a K75s with 75,000 miles (about 25% of it's useful life) for $500 recently and it had an Ohlins shock, which will be migrating to my keeper K75s. If his parents are OK with it, and if he's willing to defer his racer-bike wish, I would ask him to buy the parts and help me fix it up. I think it's kind of a long-shot because the parents are so against the sport-bike. Here's how it would go: Hey kid - you want a motorcycle? OK, let's replace that cracked bell housing together next weekend. While we're at it we can figure out where that oil leak is coming from... and bring some new tires... and here's some brake fluid... flush it through... and you don't want to ride something with cracks in the fuel lines do you?

OEM Part Name: Fuel Filter - with external pump and filter on frame, 2002 and earlier Moto Guzzi Part Number: 30106000 Replacement Part Brand or Source: Wix (and probably several other brands) Part number: 33310 Fits Isuzu Trooper, all years Differences from OEM: Shorter and smaller diameter Other Comments: The OEM filter rubs on the tank, this smaller filter should not rub on the tank. This is a good time to replace the fuel lines. You need about 6 feet of 5/16 (8mm) high pressure line for fuel injection. Cut the line from pump to filter a bit longer - to reach the shorter Wix filter. While you're at it, install solid clamps (not the worm-gear kind that cut into the fuel line). I found this filter referred to by others on the forum, some said they wrapped it in electrical tape to increase the diameter and hold it snugly in the two clamps. However, I found that the rubber sheet that insulates the shock reservoir (part #00823915045) is a perfect fit as a second layer on top of the original sheet of rubber.

I say: it's the cheap and sticky kind. No reason to buy new vibration dampers. The Marketing Department Says: Seal-All is the adhesive mechanics and hobbyists trust for all their automotive and garage repairs. It adheres with superior strength to most substrates and resists gasoline, oil, paint thinner and most solvents. • Fast dry time – set in 2-3 minutes • E-Z flow formula • Gas & oil resistant • Waterproof – bond remains secure even when exposed to water • Abrasion resistant • Temperature resistant – remains tough even in extreme temperatures

Similar to Chuck, but with fewer tools - I just sanded the contact surfaces, used Seal-All as adhesive and let them dry with light pressure from a C-clamp. My sidestand bumper has been holding for 2 years after that treatment.

Yes he does. V11LeMans.uncle Have you ever listened to Red Barchetta by Rush - and payed attention to the lyrics? It's about a good uncle who leaves a machine for his nephew. My nephew has gotten pretty good on his Husqvarna TE250 (street legal dirt bike). Now he really wants a too-fast sport bike, which his parents will not allow. I am hoping his parents will let him take my K75s after I get it sorted out. You can ride any motorcycle if you have control of yourself and the machine. The former can sometimes be the more difficult challenge - which is why a bike with less power and weight makes a good learner.

I think I like your uncle. I'm glad he is insisting that you wear the right gear and get educated. However, I agree that the V11 is potentially troublesome as a first serious street bike. IMO - you should try to buy a small, street legal dirt bike (which you can resell later if you want to). Go find some dirt roads and have some adventures. Scooter and moped experience is helpful, but if you get some seat time in the dirt it will make you a better rider on the street. You can find the limits of traction and learn how to stay on the bike when it starts sliding, fall off a whole bunch of times and not care. I drop or stall my Husky regularly - because I like to try things that are difficult at slow speed. The above picture is on the way to Laurel Lakes in the Sierra Nevada mountains, just South of Mammoth Lakes, CA. I muscled through one snow berm that was a bit smaller than the one in the picture, then found two more around the corner and gave up. That was May this year, elevation is about 10,000 feet.

YES!!!! And don't let the snow stop you till it is literally impassible.

Wear gloves and a long-sleeve shirt. That stuff burns (ask me how I know). I have a box of 7mm nitrate gloves - and I went through several. While you're at it, maybe you should paint the little brackets behind your flyscreen... that's a small part that you could enjoy while you're on the bike.

...and I only want to spend $20.

Thanks guys - as it happens, I just arrived in Houston, TX. One day of work - and back home tomorrow night. I've been removing the obvious excess flash from the castings - some of them were very sharp and could cut into hoses or fingers. But I have not given any attention to simple seams or imperfections from the molds. I just want to ride it...

Thanks - I've been using lots of water on parts that I can (but no soap). But I was afraid to get the transmission cases wet, with their bearings and gears attached. So I cleaned with towels soaked in Simple Green. I used isopropyl alcohol as my final wipe-down before the paint. So hopefully those two have removed or neutralized any remaining stripper. I'll be sure to clean and rinse the engine case thoroughly, since that is one of the more visible elements. ...and no apologies needed. One of the great things about documenting a project is all the tips I get along the way. How would you heat cycle it? Just use a heat gun, perhaps on low setting? Or just run it briefly and let it cool a few times before going out for a long ride?

It's the same paint as I've been using (VHT engine case - satin black). Every single part (bearings, seals, etc.) has to get stripped out for powdercoating. I don't think that's practical for engine and transmission cases - or at least that's several steps further than I want to go. But I've got a few goodies awaiting pickup at the powder-coater. All this time on the cases (and several cans of stripper, primer, and paint at about $15/can) makes me appreciate what a good deal powdercoating is. I must say, though, that stripping these parts, then masking and painting them, has given me a real appreciation for the design work that goes into creating them. Especially the transmission cases - so intricate and precise. It's really amazing. As a bonus, I finally understand how the transmission works. It was cool to be able to slide the cogs around (with the selector arms removed) and see how they engaged various gears. Mechanically, it's not too bad of a job, but I left all the gears and shafts on the intermediate plate. I was a bit apprehensive, not having taken a transmission apart before. But I will defer celebration until I actually ride it again.

Got the transmission back together today. The elimination of all crinkle paint has turned out to be a much more time-consuming task than expected. Hopefully the transmission leak is also cured (time will tell). I just had to push it close to the engine for a comparison - and to imagine how good it's going to look when the engine is done.

I didn't make it... but I am thinking about going to the Long Beach show next weekend. http://motorcycleshows.com/longbeach

Maybe you could look at some parts diagrams and see if the valve cover gaskets are the same part number. That could give you a little more confidence. Good idea to put some new gaskets in at that time anyway.

Got home last night to find that my special tool had arrived from Harpers (the one to remove the nut that retains the input gear). So that, along with other tools graciously lent to me, made it possible to split the cases. The good news - I do not see any evidence of a crack. Also, I'm pretty sure the leak was due to loose fasteners. Three of the top ones, near the source of the leak came free with almost no effort - and there's no way to re-torque those without removing at least the rear cover of the transmission. A further discovery - they must paint the castings without any masking at the factory, then send them off for machining. The inside of my transmission case had a lot of the crinkle paint, and it was starting to come off. There was some black sludge that had settled in the bottom of the oil - some of which I assume was due to the paint coming off. So... It seems possible that re-torqueing the fasteners could have cured the leak, but I am glad to get the sludge-inducing crinkle paint out of the inside of the transmission case. I don't know if it causes a big enough problem to worry about, but it seems that bits of paint floating about cannot be good for seals and bearings.