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V11 Ecu diagnostics and reprogramming


Paul Minnaert

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  • 2 weeks later...

I mounted my air temperature sensor at the front of tank. I figure it should be away from the engine heat. I removed the thermistor from the plastic fitting and extended the wires.

 

 

Sent from my shoe phone!

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Hi,

 

I mounted my air temperature sensor at the front of tank. I figure it should be away from the engine heat. I removed the thermistor from the plastic fitting and extended the wires.

 

two comments (based on a 15M, not all may apply for a different ECU).

 

First, the air temperature sensor is providing intake air temperature to the ECU to allow for variations in the air mass, which the air temperature trim table is supposed to compensate. The target being twofold, an AFR which is not changed due to air mass variations and changes to the ignition timing in case the air temperature exceeds a given temperature (AirTempSparkTrim table).

 

Second. I have logged the air temperature on a V11 (no snorkels) with the sensor in the airbox and almost no influence from the engine temperatur or engine load is discernible. Ambient air temperature seems to be the only significant impact. In below picture the blue line is engine temperatur, the red one rpm and the orange one air temperature. The air temperature stays at ambient temperature plus a couple °C, even when idling after high loads.

 

Cheers

Meinolf

 

https://db.tt/8T61QNDL

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Always appreciate your insight Meinolf!..

 

What needs to be done for more open pipes? And what increments do you recommend adjusting fueling in Tunerpro i.e. 5-10?

 

5-10 what I have no idea.

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Hi Czakky,

 

Sorry, I have no simple recipe. The prequisites are dual lambda sensors, a data logger, a target and the willingness to spend a lot of time in measuring and data analysis.

 

On my bike I have invested several work weeks during the last year. And I'm not satisfied and finished yet. I'm at a stage where I gather several hours of data and then spend hours on analyzing just a couple of seconds.

 

It has become a goal in itself.

 

Cheers

Meinolf

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  • 3 weeks later...
Hi,

 

based on ~50h data-logging at ambient temperatures ranging from 5-35°C and heights from 100-1200m and 2-3 weeks spent analyzing the accumulated data I now have a map which I find quite satisfactory. Power, subjectively, is better than the original map, even more important are smoothness and drivability.

 

Would anyone like to try the map and share his experience? I only know my V11, so my impression is quite subjectiv.

 

Starting point is a V11, 15M, 2001, 68.000km, Titan mufflers, standard collector, KN airfilter, no snorkels, no further engine or other modification. The ECU trim on my V11 is set to 0, so it should be adjusted accordingly.

 

The target was this map with synchronous values at all operating conditions on both cylinders at all map cells reachable during normal street driving conditions. I experienced 5.0-6.5l/100km, depending on the driving mode - touring vs spirited curve chasing. The only remaining issue is some lean sputtering between 2.900-2.600rpm when decelerating with completely closed throttle.

 


 

These are the cells I could reach during normal street operation (ignore the values, they are mean values from +14h logging)

 


 

The changes to the map are:

- base maps of both cylinders changed. Mean deviation at those points I could reach is less than +/- 0.01 Lambda

- Reduced cold start duration to 2000 revolutions and made a proportional change to the cold start map values

- Corrected trim tables for ambient temperature (I could not measure any AFR changes due to changed temperatures in the range of 5-35°C)

- Corrected trim tables for ambient pressure (I could not measure any AFR changes due to changed pressure changes in the range of 100-1200m)

- Changed ignition table

- Changed acceleration map

 

Cheers

Meinolf

 

PS Following a completely different topic I found today that the engine temperature sensor on my V11 did not fully contact the engine. The consequence was that the reported engine temperature was ~25°C below the actual value. And this resulted in messing up several areas of the map. So, until I have corrected these areas the map won't work well on any engine where the sensor is reporting the correct temperature.

 

However, considering how the sensor is connected to the engine and that the design does not ensure a reliable heat transmission, the chances are that many V11 will have the same effect and consequently the map should work well.

 

If GuzziDiag shows, after a normal run or about 10min idling, less than 85-90°C, the chances are that the sensor is not properly contacting the engine. An easy fix is to apply a drop of heat paste to the tip of the sensor.

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  • 4 weeks later...

When the air temperature sensor is mounted in the air box it will see ambient because there is fresh air passing by.

I am running pods so I moved the sensor into the breeze rather than leave it where it would read the hot engine.

 

 

Sent from my shoe phone!

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  • 1 month later...

Hello,

 

I have a problem to connect with my guzzidiag 0.47 - i have bean instaled the drivers for the cables but my program not work well. They tell me to ignition on, so i do it, and its still no data - disconect and ignition off. So i switch of the key and still nothing. what maty be wrong? I download the map and write main with no problems. So the reader and writer its ok. 

 

Please let me know. Tomek

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Yes. I have v11 lemans 2003 rosso corsa with cat on ecu and lambda on. with my knowlage t should be 15 RC ... 

 

PS: the cable is not wright i think that is something wrong. a reader and writer not worging as well. So i bought the cable obd1 to obd2 on 16 pin. But there are some two cables red and black. red is plus on the buttery and black is minus i think. May be i do it wrong? is there any procedure to connect this cable? In Reader, there were some kind off the steps, I remember used to be struggled with this for a long time. Can you hint exactly what I do. Saves the file, then have 10 seconds włączeć point, click ok and just give the ignition ... something I am doing wrong? if I have an off button pressed down I hear the fuel pump?

 

Edit... i have a solution i think. It is not FTDI chip. I take a look and it is not sign of FTDI chip - i think it is china version false chipset. 

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