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Lots of good info, but it's like picking peanuts out of poop. This guy desperately needs Toastmasters.

Waiting for the V111 South'n SpineRaid Sport edition . . .

<sigh> McMaster-Carr has it as cheap as anyone, sure to be quality, and ridiculously expensive shipping. Well, I guess I can just replace all the hoses on everything I own. https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/131/163/9776T31

So say we all. 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r-11cv4x{0%{transform:rotate(0deg);}100%{transform:rotate(360deg);}} @-webkit-keyframes r-imtty0{0%{opacity:0;}100%{opacity:1;}} @keyframes r-11cv4x{0%{transform:rotate(0deg);}100%{transform:rotate(360deg);}} @keyframes r-imtty0{0%{opacity:0;}100%{opacity:1;}} .r-dvqwo{position:absolute;visibility:hidden;top:0;width:50px;pointer-events:none} .r-dvqwo.loaded{visibility:visible;top:50vh;width:50px} I need a hose to carry brake fluid, DOT 4, under no pressure. What is the most appropriate material for such hose to be made of? UV stability is important as a second property. Thought for 23s EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer) rubber is the most appropriate material for a hose carrying DOT 4 brake fluid, as it offers excellent compatibility with glycol-based fluids like DOT 4 while resisting swelling, degradation, or chemical breakdown. quora.com +2 It also provides strong UV stability for outdoor exposure, along with resistance to ozone and weathering. rubberandseal.com Since there's no pressure involved, a basic unreinforced EPDM tube should suffice for transfer or storage applications. reddit.com Avoid materials like natural rubber or PVC, which can degrade quickly in contact with brake fluid.

Docc- V100 Mandello Wind Tunnel looks good

Yeah, but was there Blue Hylomar in her "orifice"?

A further thought: the reason for the air-box is to create a volume of still air at the intakes of the carbies or throttle bodies. That is logical: if there is turbulence there, you can't depend on a constant ingress of air. Going by everything I have read, I would rather make an air-box out of an empty ice-cream container than run pods, or even velocity stacks, on a street bike. If it were to be velocity stacks, then with a box around them to create said still-air volume.

and, then: "Catch 22" - if the low amperage "tender/trickle" charger does not output adequate voltage for your specific battery (Hawker Odyssey PC545 in the case of our V11 OEM battery), then the battery life is shortened.

Only down side to this is battery drain when the bike isn't running. Combine this with the drain from the ecu when parked and it's quite a drain so the battery tender is required. Phil

Probably EPDM or Viton. I can't remember what I used on the Bimota but I think the importer supplied it as a replacement. Phil

That begs the question, 'What is the correct material for brake fluid hose?'

The issue with non genuine reservoir rubber hose is after a while the brake fluid permeates the rubber and collects in a drip that runs down the hose and in some cases onto bodywork and damages paint. The hoses "sweat" brake fluid esp if the bike sits a while between rides. Genuine rubber hoses don't do this. It happened to my new DB1 Bimota years ago. During shipping the hoses had sweated and the result was brake fluid dripped onto the perfect Bimota paint work and damaged it. Not just my bike but all the bikes in the shipment. Bimota had used the incorrect rubber for the hoses. The importer had to repair paint and source the correct rubber hose. Phil

As much as I like to believe that OEM Brembo hose is some industry secret special sauce, more likely it's the same Chinese sourced stuff I'm getting on Amazon for half price. We'll see what shows up, how it fits, and whether I've wasted $6.

@docc Would it be this ==> Brembo Reservoir Hose

These excellent folks sell the correct hose, yet I cannot find it on their website. Their reservoir descriptions simply say "black rubber hose." My replacement, from OPP Racing, measures 5mm ID/ 10mm OD . . . https://www.oppracing.com/

Hearsay, but from knowledgeable people: pods are always hard to tune, regardles of whether carbs or ECU. They work well on a track where it is mostly full throttle, but not well in day-to-day use, where partial throttle openings are the rule rather than the exception.

still in the phase where i’m in theory not going to really tear into this machine till next winter (2026), but biding the time noodling the process. A question of the day is in regard to the pods on this machine. I know some greatly disfavor pods on the V11’s, and lean toward the stock air intake myself, but thats for running reasons. So for the V7, i’m assuming i’ll source the missing parts to return back to stock style air filters, but at the moment its more because I think i’d prefer that “look”, as the pods look odd on this machine the way they’re currently installed. Then for running purposes, I’d prefer it run well, but is there much of a discernible difference on these bikes for “pod vs stock”? lower rpm, no ECU, carbs vs FI, etc, i’m thinking may make the running question a bit less poignant? or perhaps not….

No longer need a bucket, a nice silicone plug sorted it.

Meh. No, neither the reservoirs nor the master cylinders come with the hose- I just replaced both sides on my 2000 V11. The barbs on both the M/C and the reservoir measure 7mm, which comes to .275", or a bit over 1/4". I'll try this one- says 7mm but it states .280"... we'll see. https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-3-3ft-Rubber-Water-Black/dp/B08MZC17K2/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2N3UKYKJHFF5W&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.COxJ2-UzaKM-UA4iA0hK-rbkBQwPalfZ4tv7idlzCl17ZTbgr0ajtwiY0D_G5Xbw8i5AkGNQffBhn0wz67GG5n1fJRJtaDqYYOKs8mcmFDoENeVh49my-YIJs1YSqgxfmikbaouwO48WTcNtaIiAW5LzpVFkutMxoguSrzfCmAzGRYEmdHdLZaJzEXQiBX2BaeEqpzLl2A0kn7HjxGWGOjzPmzkyO7HwIpZSBsae6YA.wiX15ixR3X3b5S-vGyCtQkssKXjJOpFRP6tPh69lzow&dib_tag=se&keywords=7mm%2Bbrake%2Bfluid%2Bhose&qid=1762104388&sprefix=7mm%2Bbrake%2Bfluid%2Bhose%2Caps%2C147&sr=8-4&th=1

For a few years now I've tried to beat this disease, but the best cope I can come up with is to try to look at them less and ride them more.

After recently moving to San Francisco, I'm needing more garage space so it's time to sell my 22-year-old Italian girlfriend. Well maintained and in excellent condition, this Guzzi features: 1,100 cc twin, 6-speed transmission, shaft drive 43mm Ohlins fork and Ohlins shock (shock was rebuilt about 1,500 miles ago by DesMoto Sport in SF, which also set sag, preload, compression, and rebound for this 155 pound 71-year-old rider). Factory titanium exhaust pipes and canisters Cross-over header for more mid-range power Moto Guzzi racing ECU Distinctive two-tone red paint (there is no bubbling of graphics) Cover (removable) for passenger seat Carbon fiber front fender Factory steering damper Excellent Brembo brakes with braided SS brake lines Tool kit and manual Recent maintenance: Valve clearance adjustment and throttle body synchronization SCUD shift paw return spring (redesigned to prevent breakage) and lever spring New rear wheel bearings, drive seals, needle bearing, gear oil U-joints and swing arm bearings lubricated New rear brake master cylinder Spark plugs Fuel hoses and tank fittings Air filter Michelin Pilot Power tires Front fender extender All fluids New headlight and shell (metal, not plastic) Oil and filter just changed. Currently 43,625 miles (this will slightly increase as I ride the bike weekly to keep it charged and lubricated...and because it's such visceral fun). $6900 Bring cash and M1 license for test ride.

And let's not forget Miss Shilling and her orifice . . . https://www.damninteresting.com/how-miss-shillings-orifice-helped-win-the-war/

If you are replacing all those parts, it's likely that the reservoir will come with the hose that feeds the master cylinder. It's not pressurized. I put Rizoma tanks on mine and they came with the hose and spring clamps. If you have not already ordered new parts (or even if you have), it would be worth removing that lever to see if the adjusting screw that contacts the moving part of the master cylinder is set too far out (as alluded to above, I'm just trying to add a bit more detail.)

IF this "lever to piston" clearance does not exist you are having a hydraulic jack experience with your front brake system. There has to be adequate clearance to keep this from happening or you can replace all the parts you want and still end up with trouble.