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I guess there's no video section, but here is a little clip of my ride yesterday:

Here is the control panel from my 1972 Fischer X-ray machine. I decommissioned it some time ago, but just could not throw this panel away. So, I built bulbs and a power supply to make it into "shop decor." A "tool" repurposed . . .

Had a little go with the seat hump off, didn't want my rucksack scraping the paint.

Thanks! Here's a close-up, I used a Shin-Yo fender rear light mounted upside down, it fits great and is very slim, but bright.

I finally got around to looking at messages, emails, and PayPal. Most have paid already. Some have over paid. (!) Don't worry though.. I won't spend it on something frivolous.. it will go straight to beer. Thanks, again!

Docc... I must say, is not normal. No doubt... he's not an ax murderer. But... after several meet ups, many beers (maybe whiskey) and chats, both bikes and general philosophy, I'd have to label him 'extraordinary'. An A-lister for sure on the human scale. (sorry buddy, I calls it like I seez it)

If you look on the German forum for these things everyone seems to run 10W-60. The xxW number should always be as low as possible for a full synthetic oil. By that I mean a true group 4 oil. The only reason for a 20W-xx oil was in the days of mineral based oils which sheared down relatively quickly and the base 20W oil was insurance for those that didn't do oil changes. Full synthetics dont break down like that so a heavy base oil isn't necessary. For those that think a 0W-40 as an example is too thin have a think about this. At engine operating temperature say 90-100 deg C where the engine is designed to produce peak torque, in other words to be at maximum load the 0W-40 oil is around 1/3 the of viscosity that it is at room temperature. So the argument that its too thin doesn't stack up. It's still more viscous when cold than at operating temp and at operating temp its a 40 weight oil. I would run a -10W-40 full synthetic if they made such an oil. I've run my V11 on Mobil1 0W-40 for ten years with no seal leakage, no oil at all in the airbox, no oiling issues at all period. It also has adequate ZDDP levels of 1000ppm for flat tappet engines. You want to be aiming at ZDDP levels of 1000-1400ppm. More isn't necessarily better. For the Daytona I'm inclined to go heavier say a 10W-50 or 60 full synthetic only because they tend to run hot in traffic and could use the extra viscosity at idle to maintain oil pressure. A std Daytona/Centauro engine doesn't really in the real world put any more load on the critical load carrying components such as main and rod bearings than a 2 valve engine either. The power outputs of both are within reason pretty much the same So from my first hand experience and a little basic knowledge about oil I'd say for any of the old generation big block engines the choice would be a full group 4 synthetic in the 0W-40, 10/15W-50 or the 10W-60 depending on the ambient temps you ride in and traffic conditions. For the later 8 valve engines i'd go with the recommended 10W-60. Ciao

For now I'm still running 20w50 dino in my round heads, I don't know if I want to tempt the oil leak gods by running a full synth in them just yet,lol ;~) But I'm running the recommended 10w60 synth in my Griso & CalVin, and planning to use it as well in my V11. I don't want to put words in his mouth, but iirc Chuck has shared the opinion that any bike worth taking care of is worth running 10w60 in it. I can definitely see the merits of quick full lubrication when cold with the 10w aspect,,, and the heavy durable 60w aspect when it gets real hot and the engine is working hard. If the seals, gaskets and breathing are up to it, I wouldn't hesitate to use 10w60 synth, Fwiw ymmv Kelly

Looks like a beautiful day!

Reminds me,,, had a period 1974 - 1978 with Det Norske Veritas doing exray of the piping of a new petroleum plant. We were using isotope,,, still here, riding , oh well it's friday and IPA time. Cheers tom.

Yes ... I have added this to my content above .

High compliments, y'all . . . I have more (non-automotive/non-axe-murderer) tools to share. But they're kinda skeery-as-hell, too . . . (no sheep have been involved. I promise!)

I hadn't noticed before! I guess it's the last of the chin pad tanks, as it's a 2003 bike. I quite like the way it looks, slightly less "bunched up" at the front. @footgoose The exhaust hangers (and the cans) were custom made by a shop in the UK, which is why I couldn't tell what they were. I went back through the paperwork and found a receipt from Long Life Exhausts, in Bristol.

I dunno, bud. Scud pretty much nailed this with side-by-side measurements. The triples really don't look much different. . . . (Definitely visible between Grim's and my Sports.)

Really interesting Sport, Grim! The early, "chin-pad", tank on the braced LongFrame so shows the frame lengthened just behind the headstock . . . Relative to the early RedFrame:

Turns out my Speedhut "location memory" has been disconnected since I installed the last LED headlamp. Back on now, but just 25 microamps. So, 14 days to drop to the 12.65v threshold. A few minutes with the (LED) lights on stabilized at 12.04v. Offering this as a reference of a known good PC545 (6 years old). Also, interesting that six hours after running it down to 12.04v, it is back up to 12.68v. No charge, yet, then. I'll watch it another 36 hours, but intend to ride it then to roll 115,000 miles and commence my next service (tune-up, fluids, filters, fork oil).

YEAH! love it. nice can hangers too.

Its a device to spike through wool bales to provide a lifting loop for loading and moving about. Ciao

Oh! "Porkchops" . . . I meant porkchops . . .

Shoot, bud, we could'a tossed some stilettos on the grill . . .

Just goes to show you there's an ass for every seat. Not my cuppa, either..but I'm an antiquer.

It sounds to me as though for whatever reason the piston on the master cylinder isn't able to return fully. This means that the priming port that allows fluid to return to the reservoir is blocked off effectively making the system closed. This being the case as the brakes warm up the fluid expands but being unable to release the pressure by expanding into the reservoir it's only option is to push the pistons in the calipers out, therefore applying the brakes, which in turn causes more heat, more fluid expansion, more pressure etc. until the front wheel locks. I think there was another thread recently where someone had exactly the same problem with their rear brake? What I'd check first is the plunger that presses on the piston of the master cylinder. Most of these are adjustable on Brembo M/C's although I can't remember the exact set-up on V11's. Most likely there will be a small barrel in the hand lever with the plunger threaded in to it. This will be secured with a tiny grub screw with a 1.5 or 2mm Allen hex in it. Loosen the grub screw and wind the plunger a bit further into the barrel, (Try 1/2 a turn at a time.) and then relighted the grub screw and re-mount the lever. Check that when the lever is released the piston can fully return. If it can't? Repeat until it can. That priming port has to be open when the lever is released or you'll end up going arse-over-tit again! Pete Edit. Yup. Just a few posts below this one. Phil and Moto seem to have nailed it.

They look delicious. Can't wait for next time. It might be a while....considering the virus and such.....maybe in a few years..