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Kevin_T

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  • My bikes
    73Eldorado, 97Centauro, 84BMW RS, 2012 BMW GT1600, 72 Norton,2002 Lemans
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    Pinckney, Michigan USA

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  1. Having owned a 1984 RS /7 I can confirm a lot about what people are saying. What they aren't saying is bikes from that era although parts are available they can be very expensive. Sometimes BMW will surprise you and they'll be reasonable but not often and net engine parts. Then there is the problem of working on them true simple maintenance is pretty good but if need to dig deep into them your going to need a special tool to do almost anything. I mean it, its like some kind of sick German humor. What would take a few hours might take days because you'll be building a special tool or buying one. The technology is just different not better or worse just different. A Guzzi you could keep workshop manual on the self and never use its intuitive. Not a beemer, if you don't study your manual (and it better be a good one) you WILL SCREW something up. Handling? I guess they earn the name "Rubber Cow" but if you were smooth on it. It was a good handling machine for the time period. Better then my loop frame that's for sure.
  2. Are those pods on the end of the velocity stacks? (oh, oh)
  3. I've of high mileage heads cracking through the valve guides it would great to know if it was caused by inclusion or porosity buried inside the head. For sure what you suggested is in order. I mean that's probably the place to start a project like this. I got to say if hasn't already been said owning and working on a daytona motor is not for the faint of heart.
  4. I was wondering if x-ray inspection would be cost prohibitive. It would be nice to know what kind of swiss cheese your working with before spending a ton of money. Looking at a few website and what they offer was amazing, but I'm in no position to give them a head for a quote. Some of the images they were showing must have been done with MRI imagining. If they charged what the hospital charges my insurance that's a no go. Kind curious what the minimum amount of information would allow me to move ahead with confidence.
  5. Don't have much experience with Ti cans, but I just cut into a Satintune can trying to repair it. They used stainless steel wool for the packing pretty sure its 434 alloy just slightly magnetic. Water is a by product of combustion and combustion is never complete so you end up with products like carbonic acid or nitric acid its not just a heat issue. They ended up using about a #3 grade. I wouldn't use stainless steel wool directly against your Ti skin but make a hybrid packing. Lay some lateral strips to build up the oval shape and use your old winding to finalize it. The old packing doesn't look that bad just clean it up with some dawn dish soap. Let it soak a couple days and rinse. No offense but there is not much stoichiometry happening there, its not burnt its probably just soot. One thing I did find interesting when I cut into the Satintune can is the lack of packing material right where the perforated tube entered the muffler. It was definitely about an inch and a half that was bared. It was there for a reason why I don't know. I never heard the Ti cans but when you pull the db killers out of the Staintune its about the most perfect sound I can imagine for the V11.
  6. Kurt I hope you still visit this site. I was wondering why the picture of your crossover looked so milky or cloudy?
  7. This is awesome John truth be told I thought the pump was the problem just figured sloppy cut-off point for the gears in the housing. Hey I thought the relief vale was only along for the ride. I don't want to worry you but you are dealing with systems here and changing one thing effects a whole lot of other things. Not trying to put a spin on your work I plan to follow in your footsteps. I'm can't think for the life of me why Guzzi didn't do something with this. I mean as a manufacturer they would have a vast amount of data to look at. What weight of oil were you using for your test? Here is a crazy idea if the spring controls pressure switching to a lighter wt oil might increase the volume of oil as a cooling media (might also take your oil cooler). You might lose a couple psi but gain a little horsepower over a 60 wt oil
  8. Those bags appear to be in great shape. I'm interested in them how many liters are they? P.M. me with some pictures if you have any more and well see what shipping cost comes to.
  9. Well its important to keep ones proper perspective in life.
  10. Well its like when I was growing up listening to Paul Harvey, "Now I know the Rest of the Story". Didn't know that thanks for the enlightenment.
  11. I tried to get one off of Harper's about a year & half ago but they just kind of blew me off.
  12. I was looking at Gritman's post and he made no mention of fooling around with the ignition timing. Did you speak with him if he did? I'd imagine the requirements in the ignition timing between a hemispherical head of the V11and the pentroof head of the high cam would be quite different.
  13. If you haven't already you should do a leak down test. The engine might just be broken in but its full of dissimilar metals. Chances are 99 out of a 100 there is nothing wrong, still its good to know. You could have a valve that open just a crack or there is some galvanic action going on.
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