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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/28/2021 in all areas
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One more from Anglers Rest / outside the Blue Duck Inn. Cheers Guzzler6 points
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https://ibb.co/Qc1Z13k https://ibb.co/X7QnMQK Got out on the 02 LeMans for a short meetup with a few friends. Turned over the odo to 3300 miles. Such a sweet stock ride!5 points
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I wouldn't recommend that for a few reasons. Firstly it will make dressing out the damage more difficult but more importantly it makes it impossible to wrap the perforated tube with woven glass/cloth which you need to do when re packing. It's not a good idea to just stuff glass wool down the can without the woven glass around the perforated section because the wool will blow out faster and the tiny loose wool fibres get sucked back into the cylinder on the overrun at the right revs. Not that it's going to do any real damage but best to avaoid that. Ciao3 points
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3 points
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I decided I've been pushing the electrical-dead Scura around in the garage for too long, and that I also hate doing electrical work. So I made an appointment to have a professional repair it (had to book it out 4 weeks). That gives me time to freshen it up so it will be ready to ride when I get it back. Ordered fluids on Amazon, and a set of Angel GTs on Revzilla. Also ordered new tires for the Stelvio, which I think I will go ride now.3 points
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3 points
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Gotta love the local council's sense of understatement ! Cheers Guzzler3 points
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I did the same docc, and got a bit more by bending the tab some2 points
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Just an addendum for others also fettling their shifter, the lock nuts on the Heim/rose joints on the connecting shaft have been known to loosen, as well as the pinch bolt on the arm on the gearbox shaft. Adjust the rod length so the arms are parallel and check that the lever downstroke does not foul the frame sidechop in any gear (no just first).2 points
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Apologies if this was already posted elsewhere. Nice 20 minute documentary on YouTube. It's in Italian, but you can turn on english closed captioning in the upper right corner on YouTube. Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk1 point
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Loaded the Meinolf 93_6 map. Runs great now. So then I thought I would attack the pipes to start the process of cleaning them up, removing dents etc. Interesting that it looked like one had already been opened and this is what I found inside.......no packing at all. The other outlet end is very difficult to remove. It might have to stay there while I remove the dents which will make it a little bit harder.1 point
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1 point
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No marks on my seat base (2004 Naked) from the battery L post adapters, but then I weigh only about 150 pounds all suited up. Real men may have a different experience.1 point
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Electrical dead Scura ? if that were the case , every V11 owner would be taking their bike somewhere else .1 point
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1 point
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If its not cracked Find a flat bench , use a plastic hammer, straighten it ..1 point
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Pretty sure I learned this set-up from Andy (along with a boat load of other stuff . . .). Okay, I remember now that the bolts screw up through the threaded nuts welded to the underside of the subframe. I was still nervous about them loosening and topped them with flange nuts. The bolts are too short to fully engage the "locking" nuts, so I drenched them in blue LocTite. Like Andy, been there > a long time < . . . I just measured and this drops the front of the battery basket 0.360"/ ~9mm (almost 3/8"!) because of the thickness of the basket metal plus the thickness of the subframe plate and the thickness of the welded nuts underneath) . . .1 point
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plus one for mounting the battery tray from the underside. mines been like that for .......long time I guess1 point
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A couple things made me nervous about making that change. One was shock clearance (it's tight down there!) . . . The other was the nuts loosening and the bolts dropping out, then the battery and basket dropping onto the shock sending me halfway to a bad day. Pretty sure I either used NyLoc nuts or LocTite or both.1 point
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I remember relieving a ridge on my original seat pan because it was cutting the battery strap. I bought a second hand seat later and the PO had cut out the entire battery area to the exposed foam (makes the seat pan pretty flimsy). My solution to the seat pressing the battery was to attach the battery basket to the bottom of the subframe at the front, gaining maybe 3mm to 5mm.1 point
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Ok thanks Chuck. I was very surprised at how tight the original base was on my bike. I made a simple aluminium extension strap so the runner battery strap wasn't pulled so tight and that wouldn't allow the seat to clip down because the metal ring on the rubber strap now sat flat on the battery top, sheez. I tried my later seat and it definitly has more under seat clearance to things and a simpler cleaner detail design. Ciao1 point
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I'm pretty careful about that kind of stuff.. but I went out and got my modeling clay. Unfortunately, it's gone missing but it *appears* to have plenty of clearance. Plastic or not, pressure on those posts would not be a good thing..1 point
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Yeah, the tension on the pivot is adjusted with the bolt into the subframe so it moves freely, but without excessive play. Then the lock nut secures the pivot bolt position. Sometimes, it helps to add a shim between the shift lever and the subframe tab to get a smooth action without the lever twisting on the stroke. Part of tuning the external shift mechanism . . .1 point
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Well not really, the base is plastic. It's a very tight fit the base clearance on these things esp the first version of the seat on the early bikes. Any contact marks on the seat base? I might consider this mod myself if the clearance is there. Ciao1 point
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Anglers Rest ( Victorian High Country ) Oz Great spot and the Blue Duck Inn is a ripper !! Cheers Guzzler1 point
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1 point
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Wow, it seems like such a long time since autumn . . . Finally! (just watch out for all that winter road gravel . . .)1 point
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1 point