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these things make it easier to connect wiring to battery https://www.ebay.com/itm/401458934022?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

I was doing some research for Joe Caruso on the latest iteration of his aftermarket oil pump and was postulating along with him on the reasoning behind using helical gears in the std pump as opposed to straight cut gears. I was looking at one of my pumps on the bench and the only advantage I could see was that as the gear tooth passed the inlet and outlet ports in the housing it did so in a gradual manner due to the angle of the tooth and not open and shut as a straight tooth would. I thought this would lead to less pressure spikes and a more constant delivery. So after about 3 hours of research I found that I was indeed correct and even found a pressure graph demonstrating the differences. Another puzzle solved and the satisfaction of realising that I had worked it out myself and the thought that maybe just maybe all the time I've devoted to thinking about "engineering" over the last 50 years or so has actually taught me stuff. A rare moment indeed. I once read as a teenager all about the pros and cons of Georotor pumps but have forgotten what they were, lol. Time to revisit. Ciao

This time, it is not a "no show" like the Sardines... I purchased the above lithography, signed by the artist and authenticated by the printing plant. Only one available, out of the 13 made. They have the same image available on a smaller format here! They also have another Moto Guzzi lithography available: 1 of 13, about USD 320 sent to you, and you can order directly from their website. Tax Free. They also had this one, unfortunately sold when I got to it.

Maybe the key here is to remove, inspect and replace as necessary. Not set and forget until the use by date calenders around to bite you. But ..... I have done similar and welding was evident - long life plugs are a trap for this especially with twin plug Guzzi heads using those as a ploy to excuse poor access to them. Chris.

Not perfect, but easy undoing cables, you will be busy caring for her. Cheers Tom Sent fra min SM-A525F via Tapatalk

My opinion on all of this is that if you park your bike in a dry space under cover such as a garage, resist riding in wet conditions (and who doesn't) then ANY form of corrosion, galvanic or not, will not present itself. Why? Because you need the presence of an electrolyte ( moisture, preferably salt laden but metal salts will do) is needed to support the process. The point of the original post was to see if any one has experiences to the opposite. To me, if you are regularly fastening and unfastening a fixture due to maintenance then monitoring the possibility of corrosion is so much easier. And here I would rather have a hard metal headed bolt to deal with rather than something made of cheese that burs or turns out when an attempt is made to remove it. Many times I have resorted to an impact driver and 4 pound hammer when attempting the removal of OEM plated mild steel bolts and never have I had to resort to these Neanderthal techniques when using stainless fittings. Light coating of grease, apply thumb and two forefingers only when tightening and never had a thread stripping issue or one come loose yet. Granted internal bolts like engine studs, big end bolts etc need stretch in order to never come loose but then they arent regularly accessed or re-torqued either but external bolts that to need regular removal, I would go for stainless every time and simply be aware of what I am doing. Chris.

Interestingly the chart in the linked article shows that stainless steel and aluminium and alloys are not a galvanic corrosion risk.

On that point, years back the gas turbines I ocassionaly worked on used a flow divider to distribute distillate (liquid) fuel to the individual cans on the engine. What happened was fuel was delivered from the pump and filters to the flow divider and the fuel was delivered into a common inlet. The flow divider had had 10 gear pairs which turned due to fuel pressure on the common side and delivered to the cans on the low pressure side. Like 10 guzzi oil pumps arranged back to back in series, all the gears were linked to each other so all had to turn at the same speed. Apparently when they made these things the tolerances were so tight that they simply manufactured the gears measured them and placed them into a stock pile. At assembly gear pairs were then matched from the stock, the tolerances being so tight that they could not just build a set of gears for a divider.

So they start silver and then the improve it. Gotcha.

Member bike, 2959 miles, first year V11, garage queen. I am the 3rd owner for 2 years. It has a matching Magni fairing, Ferracci cans, power commander and lower pegs. This is an early production V11 Sport and the second one I have owned. In 10/20 the bike was serviced including a new battery, rear brake pads, oil and filter, air filter, gear oil and a new clutch. If you search this site you will see pictures of the bike when I purchased it plus the story about the clutch. I also did a mild restoration which included repainting the pork chops which were faded and removing the aftermarket red valve covers and red dash cover and replacing them with oem. I also installed the lower foot pegs. The work since I have owned it was performed by a long time Guzzi mechanic and owner at The Spare Parts Company in Philadelphia. http://sparepartsco.us/ The bike comes with the stock handlebars and pegs. It runs excellent, looks and sounds great. Needs nothing mechanically and is a 9 of 10 cosmetically. Selling as I have moved and lost a lot of my garage space so one of my bikes must go. The bike is located in VT. I also have a very nice CB350 Four I would consider selling instead. Asking $7.5K for the Guzzi. I have many more pictures of both bikes if interested. Cold Start from this week.  Temperature was in the high 30's and the bike had been sitting for weeks.

In this case, I cast a jaundiced eye toward manufacturer or dealer recommendations. They want your money - everyone does, as it is human nature. I trust the techs, mechanics and pilot-mechanics, as they have hands-on knowledge and experience. I have yet to hear of a fastener failure or thread damage caused by anti-seize compound. Compounds with metallic content must not be gotten on the porcelain at the spark plug tip, but that is the only caveat I am aware of.

My last front fender paint job, had white as base, picture later, sure looks Legnano green. Cheers Tom.

Cheers Tom.

Dunlop Sportsmart TT, D put a smile in my face, tinyer the better = 160. Were talking public streets here, I USE my bikes, ææh every time with new tires is great,but best feeling for a while when were mentioning stickiness those Dunlop's. Tiny nervous at v low speeds,just my opinion. Hope next pair will behave the same way. Cheers Tom.

True NGK recommend to NOT use any anti seize as the plating on the plug is designed as an "anti seize". Having said that I recently pulled a set of 75,000klm old original plugs out of my car for replacement and the experience wasn't too comfortable. I put anti seize on the new ones and made a note to never let them go more than 50,000klm in future despite what the manufacturer says. Ciao

Oh, and any bolt that lays claim to the ability of stretch in achieving hold is a single use item and should be discarded after removal because the thread will change. I don't want the inconvenience of sourcing new bolts everytime my sump is dropped or valve cover is pulled off. Rant over.

Docc, you are awesome, man. Thank you.

With the limited clearance under the seat, mounting the battery basket below the seat frame might be worth looking at to clear those angled connectors. This drops the battery about 14mm, IIRC.

Ahmm

What is not often used is anti-seize compound. On spark plug threads, certainly. However, it can act as a microscopic barrier, or insulator between dissimilar metals. Some anti-seize formulations are claimed to eliminate electrolysis. On principle, they are not going to cause electrolysis or facilitate the action. But, as in life, one must choose wisely. Dad had an olive drab painted military surplus mica based antiseize compound. He would not leave the runway without it, so to speak.

I like this chart. https://www.monarchmetal.com/blog/galvanic-corrosion-common-questions-answered/ Ciao

Interesting.. can't hardly beat aluminum and steel.

I've been schooled in the Periodic Table of the Elements, but for other reasons. I might venture that Galvanic Effect cannot be predicted by the difference in the Atomic Number, but something more to do with differences in the electrons in the outer shell(s) of the atom's electron cloud. I waded pretty heavily out of my pay grade, there, so take that as some sort of cocktail party talk. There are charts of Galvanic Compatibility. Stainless steel and aluminum are considered a poor compatibility choice in this regard, even in high humidity away from salt. Notice the extremely low reactivity between aluminum and cadmium: https://elnamagnetics.com/wp-content/uploads/catalogs/Leadertech/Galvanic-Potential-Differneces.pdf

Ever see a moment pass by when you have specific information, but wonder if it should see the light of day? This is one of those moments. There was a discussion about oil pumps back in the '90s when I was racing 883 Sportsters. They have a georotor oil pump. The question at hand, an academic one, is why H-D went to georotor after decades with a gear pump in that place. One guy who happened around during the discussion was an automotive engine builder of some renoun; he said he'd been told that gear pumps with high pressures had the problem of pressure spikes when they were too tight, and that bleeding mitigated those spikes. No consequence of those spikes was put forth. The trade-off was that idle oil pressure was reduced. Upon building a small-block Chevrolet for my pickup truck last summer, I saw offered a spiral-cut gear pump for high-pressure/performance applications, with the claim to reduce pressure spikes. The claim was that these pressure spikes increased hydraulic lifter pump-up particularly in 'stock' or 'limited modification' engines. Meh. Who knows? H-D went to the Georotor pump at the same time they started using hydraulic lifters in the Sportsters. I do know that in most American engines, distributor/oil pump drive gears are a point of failure, and it's critical to choose compatible components. Maybe there's something there on the durability scale. My daily navel-gazing.

Boy, do I know that feeling sometimes! Well, I stopped by Seacoast Sport Cycle (love these guys!) last week to drop off my Roper Tray which they will install for me. All seems to be well with my V11 Sport. Should be done this month and dropped off with a totally dry fuel tank for my Winter storage. Their report is all the fluids before draining were really clean, except the brake and clutch fluid. Those were a wee bit dark. Fork oil was changed, seals on them were good. Drive shaft was greased, as were the chassis/swingarm bearings. No signs of terrifying glitter in the bevel box, trans, or oil, so...a big whew at that! New Pirelli DIablo Rosso IIIs got installed. All fuel and vacuum lines were also changed (they were 20 years old). There was a breather hose/valve on the engine that needed replacing, so they replaced that. Valves were adjusted, new plugs, and throttle sync is the next job w/the Roper Tray and a quick road test before I get her delivered back. They did say the tank swelled a little bit but drying it while empty out over WInter will let it shrink back into place. I am relieved I didn't buy a pile of junk. She has just under 13k miles, and the speedo and odo drive both still work. All in all, they said I got a great machine that needed hardly anything. I should have her delivered to me by the end of the month. Come Spring, I will top her off with some new 93 octane, put in the charged battery and start really riding her. I am so excited to finally have a Guzzi V11. April/May can't come soon enough!

They fixed the bike and lightened your wallet.

Autumn is well and truly here in the UK, today was cold but dry, and after spending the past 2 weeks away on an overseas business trip, I managed to get out for a ride up to Matlock Bath. The bike next to my V11 is a 1962 Enfield 500, one of the last UK made 500 singles before production was transferred to India