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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/20/2023 in all areas

  1. Bike is SOLD. Clip-ons and peg relocation setup went with the bike as well as the luggage.
    4 points
  2. I'm getting the Greenie back tomorrow. Rode it today before I rode the Mandello. It's pretty stout, broken bolt replaced, new tires and brakes, Brembo levers (free) and dyno tuned .... wont outrun the Mandello in a straight line, right now I'd take the Sport in the twisties. So far as a beauty contest, Green wins. Got the EV back, runs better than in many years. I'll be Guzzi @100% tomorrow or the next day.
    4 points
  3. DO chase the threads on the bolt holes to be SURE they were not/are not damaged.
    3 points
  4. Hi Speedfrog, I got the GU05001231 from Cadre Cycle in Cincy. "it doesn’t seem to be of the garden-variety type item"......Yep, I have created a headache for myself...use old style paper, fudge on an aftermarket that would definitely leak (imho) or go with what the parts book supercedes to which is GU05001231. On a positive note, I'm fortunate that the Lemans is not my only bike or only means of transportation.
    2 points
  5. COTA is built on black clay which overlays the caliche/limestone base rock. The clay subsides like a cheap mattress. If you think the track is bad, try riding around the parking lots and the local streets. It's a great place to test ride an adventure bike, because the test ride loop has more bumps and G-outs than most dirt roads. They didn't talk about it on TV, but I think most of the crashes were due to the wind shift and rapid temperature change during the MotoGP race. I think it caught the tire engineers out. BTW, I was there, 10th COTA GP in a row. The Moto3 race was spectacular.
    2 points
  6. @p6xUse the run off area. I've done several MSF courses. That first slalom among cones took me a couple of times before I got my rhythm. So just relax and give yourself some time. It's not a competition. They're trying to teach things that expand your muscle memory and hand-eye, not reinforce what you're doing. If you breeze through it meant you didn't learn anything new. If you struggle at something, you have more to practice and learn; that's what you came for. None of us here can ride like Rossi, well perhaps Hugo, Docc and Chuck....but the rest of use are mere mortals.
    2 points
  7. I hunted down this @Lucky Phil post regarding the Guzzi metal gasket stating it comes with a "pressure sensitive sealant." From this, I would conclude that no additional sealant is necessary or desirable . . .
    2 points
  8. So, as pretty as the Moto Guzzi bolts are, cadmium plated, these nuts&washers (two days from McMaster-Carr) have a stunning black finish. That they look like powder coat is confirmed seeing they are Black Luster®, a Columbia Coatings powder coat product.
    2 points
  9. If there is no good reason for the "low head", space for instance, I think I would prefer the "normal" head for that application. The low heads are pretty, and perhaps sit flush with the recess in the yoke. I have, however, had issues with a low allen head bolt stripping out in the socket in the head. One case in point are the bolts holding the flange for the carbies on the V35 Imola. Low head, M6 if I remember correctly, probably 8.8. Either the ones that were in there were made of plasticine, or the head is just too low for the torque.
    1 point
  10. I had thought the smooth flange is a cast alloy, not stainless steel?
    1 point
  11. The bolts that came out of my 2001 are the high head.
    1 point
  12. "Stock" maybe, just exraterrestrial. I wonder if there is another motorcycle in the world with that Guzzi motor. @Chuck would know . . .
    1 point
  13. Doesn't look like a stock "small block" ....
    1 point
  14. I cannot seem to find the applicable thread referring to my driveshaft fasteners, but here is the image of the "low head" socket head fasteners that came out of my 2000 Sport driveshaft (right) and the replacement Moto Guzzi part (left, from August 2018) with a "normal" socket head height and apparent "blue" thread locking compound (also seen in @audiomick's Stein-Dinse link, above) . . . Considering triple the cost of the Guzzi part, I believe I could apply my own thread locker . . .
    1 point
  15. Great info docc! I found the bolts at MC as suggested. My question about Ace being the place was said sarcastically. I don’t understand how this seems to be a recurring problem with many folks removing those two bolts. It seems to be a no brainer to line up the notched part of the gearbox spline upon reassembly, plus I don't think you could get thread purchase if it was not lined up. When I had to separate my driveshaft during disassembly, I encountered serious resistance...it was frozen together. So unknown to me at the time, my tapping the rear section off with a block of wood and mallet probably unseated the front coupling and rested the bolt thread against the rear of the shaft notch. Hence the stripping of bolt threads. The female threads probably were unscathed, but I will check.
    1 point
  16. Thanks Dooc! It is sorta what i was thinking but still figured I'd see what you guys thought. Funny thing is that I put a the original style 12001200 gasket on my Eldo 4 years ago and about 4k miles ago with zero issues and the original gasket on my Lemans took 20 + years to begin leaking although the bike only has 12k miles on it. So, imho a replacement 12001200 gasket is still a viable option in my pea size brain. However. I kinda like the looks of Guzzi 's latest iteration (GU05001231) as shown in the previous post. Art
    1 point
  17. I gather you mean thes bolts? https://www.stein-dinse.biz/product_info.php?products_id=3601 https://www.stein-dinse.biz/product_info.php?products_id=214963 The cheaper of the two has a -Z on the end of the number. At SD, that means "Zubehör", i.e. from a third-party supplier, not Guzzi original (as the dearer alternative appears to be). I dare say any (good quality) standard M8 x 30 would work, not the least because of the price of the cheaper of the two. At that price, it can't be anything all too special. My gut feeling is that docc's advice about tightening the bolts is more critical than the bolt itself. Bear in mind that the bolt isn't holding a huge load, it is "only" clamping the yoke on to the shaft. It has to be in good shape, and tight enough, but that is all. Going by the pictures, the spline has the usual groove that the bolt sits in. As long as the bolt doesn't actually fall out, the yoke can't come off the spline.
    1 point
  18. Correct. In fact, the small block models are the true Tontis, because Tonti was in charge of design for the whole bike, not merely the frame.
    1 point
  19. 1 point
  20. Tonti designed the small blocks, too.
    1 point
  21. Waiting on my unis from Montreal, but there's still plenty to do.
    1 point
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