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Here's my latest tank cap. Titanium mount screws etc. I had the above Aprilia screw cap fitted for about 6 years or so before this one. Worked ok. Bit plain Jane but worked. Be aware that the flat body seal the Aprilia and all of these caps come with is Nitrile rubbish and will degrade and fall apart in a few years. I just bought some Viton/FKM sheet rubber of the correct thickness off fleabay and made my own. You can buy it in 100mm x 100mm squares of the desired thickness. Phil

Hello everyone! I'm Jaide, I've just turned 24 and with that I'm finally rid of the A2 license, and with that I've just upgraded from my restricted XSR 700 to a low mileage V11 Lemans. I'm probably the youngest member here, but I figured I'd join in case I need some advice with this bike. I came close to buying a V7 for my first bike, and after getting a Yamaha instead I just couldn't get those Guzzi's out of my head. And after a test ride I was immediately convinced I needed to get one!

The nipples are removeable. Phil

I haven't checked it for any brand names but just looking at the design compared to a ledperf, it looks identical. And it seems to fit very nicely in there.

Even without the nut, the bolt would not fall off; I pointed out that the splined claw of the gear lever has been deformed because of excessive tightening. Since the hole where the bolt stays is in both parts of what forms the claw, there is now a lot of friction because that hole is no longer concentric. There is about a 5 degrees angle between the top and the bottom of the claw. I also find this policy wrong, but there is not much I can do. It is their decision. They do not seem to care that it may affect their reputation. I think they weighted their policy based on the hassle to service motorcycles for which spare parts may require extra effort that cannot be incorporated in the invoice. I pointed out that a satisfied customer may purchase a motorcycle from them rather than another business. The feeling that I had if it was possible, they would have no service department and only sell motorcycles if that was ever possible. I have a feeling that in today's market, finding a good mechanic is no longer easy; once you found him/her, keeping is also an issue. I am old enough to remember the days when you could get your motorcycle serviced just about everywhere. The new vehicles are less serviceable than they used to be. These new TFT displays, the added electronics do not age well. Because the technology is in constant evolution, you may not be able to replace some of the electronics after a while. It is a bit like the EV batteries. If you purchase an older EV, some of the onboard technology may no longer be available to replace. I enjoy my two analog instruments. I only need to know the mileage, the speed, and the rpm. I have a warning light for low oil pressure, one for the charging, and a fuel reserve indication which I don't really need since I know how far I can go with a full tank. Cherry on the cake, a 10 and 13 flat wrenches will address most of my problems.

Still have to try if Guzzidiag connects. But very confident it will work again. Also noticed the time between turning on ignition and priming of the fuelpump has been reduced. It's instant now, but used to take 1 or 2 seconds before.

Yup. None for the ‘Old’ six speed shaft nuts though. Sorry, Michael’s workshop is still a horror show from the crane installation. I wasn’t able to get near the ‘Special Tools’ box today. Hopefully I’ll be able to in the next few days and I’ll get dimensions and take some pics.

The AMA has come through for me twice, and couldn't get to me a third time. The first overage was maybe $70. The second tow was 310 miles and the overage was $700. Yet, the advantage was: I called for assistance late on a Saturday evening in a relatively small town in North Carolina. The recovery operator had me loaded by sunset and was determined to get me home (at 3 am). I gave him a good tip. Ah, of course: the bass player. I can hear the keyboardist tell the lead guitar player, "If the bloke is never seen or heard from again, what bass I can't do with my left hand, you can do with your thumb." Cannon fodder!

That's a nice piece of jewelry! Only 105 Octane should pass thru that gate into the Greenie...anything less is not worthy!

your name implies it: j'aide!

For those of you that are not privy of the European quirks; once you get your Motorcycle driver's license, you are restricted to a certain power limit for a given time. I don't know if it is good or bad, but it prevents you from purchasing a Ducati Desmo Sedici right after you get your license. Absolutely not! we are all very young at heart here! Bienvenue au Club!

Same here !

It will be better / safer to remove the tank and work from the bottom to get this clog fixed and you can be done with it . This will give you an opportunity to turn it upside down and dump any water from the tank .

To think that most of my country actually IS below sea level 😉

Exactly. But this buys me the time to get a really nice one, and have it flashed and "plug and play ready" in the future. Many thanks for your support!

I had the same problem, plugged drains and water getting into the tank. The tube that the drains go through are not straight either, and I wasn't able to get any sort of wire through them. The short of the long story is I gave the holes an acid bath with Ospho (phosphoric acid, don't know what equivalent you may have) poked with wire to the extent I could, and blew with compressed air to get the acid down as far as possible. After a dozen bath/blow/wait etc. I started to get some liquid out the bottom, and all the rust that had clogged the tube internally. I stuffed up the bottom with a bit of wood and let the tube soak a couple times for 5-10 minutes and eventually it came free and clear again. The Ospho dries and leaves any residual rust converted to iron phospate, so after drying with air and leaving overnight I sent some aerosol Cosmoline down the holes to be sure they couldn't rust again. I replaced my leaky cap and gasket with a nice aftermarket unit designated for Aprilia- dang if I can find the source at the moment. You'll also want to remove and inspect or replace the fuel lines to the injectors, and clean the inside of the little aluminum cups as they get the fluffy whites from ethanol and water. The end of the story is that I also sent my injectors to be cleaned and discovered that they were something like -3% and -10% from clean and it had never run as well after this cleanup. Aprilia cap Ah, here it is- https://www.oberon-performance.co.uk/fuel-cap-kits

Check this place for MG special tools: https://store-jbxooa7q4b.mybigcommerce.com/shop-by-manufacturer/moto-guzzi/

Hi In the way of an update. After I had exhausted my options/ limited knowledge I took my bike to an experienced MG mechanic. I got the bike back running nicely albeit a slight hiccup around 3000 rpm. He used the original tps and replaced the slightly perished inlet rubbers but didn’t really have any one thing he had found wrong. Fast forward 6 months and a couple of thousand trouble free kms , and one day the exact same on again off again misfiring is back. This time I noticed a couple of things I’d dismissed first time around. I’d just refuelled and noticed fluid run into the tank when I popped the lid whilst on the side stand. The drain under the lid is blocked and when I washed the bike water pooled in that space under the lid. I have drained and flushed the fuel system and have the bike running properly again but I am having trouble clearing the drain. The fitting on the bottom of the tank ( I am guessing it’s a one way check vale ) is very tight and I don’t want to go too hard and damage the tank. Does anyone have experience / advice removing this part? any advice is much appreciated Regards Tony

Heh, well, we certainly get more of them per mile!

Listen , I helped him get it running . AFA I am concerned , I would get a GOOD ECU , have a good map installed and run it. I am sure no one would risk running this ecu and having it fail on the road . My days of pushing (British) motorcycles back to the house are long gone . You want to ride them uphill so WHEN they quit , you can ride your zero emission vehicle back home . There was this rich farmer that had an ultra-lite and he would fly by here a few times a week . this thing sputtered 10Xs worse than anything anyone on this forum has ever witnessed. The Lord God Jehovah , Yahweh , The Great I Am etc. kept this man alive to make it home every time. I would like to think He will help me but might say " Don't look at me I didn't tell you it would work" .

Speling, not my fort Phil

That brings up the question if @Mechanism's V11 now connects to guzzidiag (?) I also got a kick out the phrase "seal level." After all, when was the last time you saw a seal in the mountains?

Dropping my 2003 Le Mans w/ 20k miles and Marzocchi forks at The Spare Part Co. in Philly (Guzzi specialists) this Saturday to have them change out the fork oil (has not been done in at least 9 years, as neither I nor the previous owner have had it done). There are no leaks, so the seals seem fine, and they recommend leaving them alone. I'm happy with the way they work for me, so not looking to change cartridges. I saw another post where fork oil weight was discussed (5, 7, 10). I was planning to have them replace it with same. This is not something I know a lot about, so if anyone has recommendations for anything to discuss with the mechanic, etc., kindly let me know. Thanks in advance!

Here in America, young wildmen can go to unlimited performance fairly quickly. Some say it is a Darwinian strategy to keep said wildmen out of the gene pool. Somehow, I slipped through the cracks.

Being self-employed you learn to be available and work on what you sell. The best thing to do is take a deposit before you start . If dealerships don't want to work on older bikes , that is their business.

Hallo Jaide, welcome aboard.

When this bike gets dialed in , you will really love it.

Maybe a cable of some sort poked in the tubing to clear it?

Yes , that’s the one, the overflow drain is blocked solid just above the nipple which means water sits in that cavity after rain or washing the bike and runs into the fuel tank the moment you open the lid. I am unsure whether the nipple screws out because mine is offering quite a bit of resistance. I’ve tried soaking with wd40 , poking snipper cord, compressed air to clear the blockage with no success. I don’t want to damage the tank if the nipples aren’t removable.

Excepted for this mishap, and the somewhat loose battery connections that caused a no start, the Quota has been incredibly reliable. I mean, much more than the V11 if I have to compare both. I am going to put it through its paces by driving it all the way to Wyoming, at what used to be the northern boundary of the former Republic of Texas. Exceptionally, I am going to bring a 10 and 13mm flat wrenches with me. I am a member of the AMA, and under their umbrella, I have a one time free tow (per year) to the closest Moto Guzzi dealer. I am yet to find out what happens if the dealership refuses to work on an older motorcycle. The Moto Guzzi dealer in Arizona that changed the tires on my Quota said they would have no problem working on it for anything. While the Moto Guzzi dealer near me, Wild West Motoplex does not work on anything older than 10 years.

The drawing shows the nut at the top, Doc. Agreed about the nylstop nut renewal. Those are supposed to be a one time use only. In any case, the gear lever spline claw is permanently deformed, making its removal difficult. I think it was overtightened. The "Nut Place" did not have M6 nylstop nuts; McMaster-Carr has them, but they sell them by 100, and the shipping cost is significant. I am going to wait until the Nut place restock them.

Ah, yes, the two under tank "nipples." One is an "overflow" drain and the other a tank vapor vent. Many have joined them, with no in-line valve, to vent/drain below the gearbox. One must ensure the path from under the filler cap to the nipples (under the tank) are clear . . .

Hi Docc I’m referring to the fitting / nipple on the underside of the tank where any fluid around the outside of the filler neck drains. There are 2 fittings that have 6mm hose attached to drain fluids and allow the tank to breathe.

@TJH, Are you referring to this "fitting/valve" on the right side of tank? This is the pressure regulator and not to be messed with!

I suppose my thinking is that if the nut comes off the bottom there is still a bolt in place. If the nut comes off the top, the bolt falls out.

About thirty points down on this checklist there is some discussion of the two nipples under the tank . . .

Yes, I also reckon the bolt is too short. Maybe 4 or 5 mm more would be good. I read somewhere, written be someone who should know, that there should be a minimum of 1.5 to 2 turns of thread proud of the nut, at least when it is a lock nut. And the lock nut does look a bit shabby. But why the nut on the bottom? I see no reason for that. On the contrary, I expect it is a lot easier to tighten up with the nut on top.

Mountains = good! Seal Level = okay . . . Below seal level = NO GOOD!

If you search for "conformal coating" you will see many products that offer a protective, breathable coating of thin polymeric film that does exactly what you want. Then you can immerse the bike again and it will still start. 😄

seal level = "a happy accident!"

It does exist. https://www.jaycar.com.au/circuit-board-lacquer-spray-can/p/NA1002?srsltid=AfmBOooIOiwJEFgxR9MDQ2QNG0Xwu-E2653MgXqqdXuZnRR0qhZzoHYk Personally I'd be buying a spare ecu JIC. The other issue these 15M ECU's have is the Baro pressure sensor failing. Not a big deal if you live at seal level and don't ride into the mountains. You'll know it's failed via Guzzidiag if it shows dashes in the baro readout screen or if the bike starts acting a bit flaky with significant altitude changes . Phil

I am pretty sure the Aprillia will work . I bought one a long X ago The part # is faded and illegible , so I can't make out the part # . Contact the Co. and see if it will work.