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Looking in the shed for something else entirely I found all my bevelbox shims today! I thought I’d given them away. If you understand how to set up bevel gears it isn’t terribly difficult, although it can be time consuming. It isn’t something most novices would undertake, at least without close supervision by someone experienced because the results of getting it wrong tend to be very expensive.

Throw in seals, bearings, gaskets and shims and you’ll be looking at close to a grand. Far easier to just find a decent second hand bevelbox.

@audiomick the short answer is no! the longer answer is yes. i was able to move the mounting plate back 4 inches by drilling holes in the plate and the Wingracks. So, the top case is now 4 inches to the rear and the seat is removable. The case is a bit further back than i would like, but it's not nearly as far back as it was before.

I didn't say it was a good idea...

@Dragonknee, what specifically has determined it is an injector problem?

It worked for me as well. The link above works for me as well. If considering a second hand box make sure there is a clear pic of the pinion teeth. That tells the story. Or just go to the TLM site and punch in ‘Used Cardan’

You can't recondition injectors these days you just clean them and check them for leaking and their flow rate and replace the o rings if needs be. Just as cheap to buy new aftermarket ones. If you buy cheap Chinese copies buy 5 or 6 and test them for flow rate and match them up as best you can and use as matched pairs. They tend to vary a bit in flow rate. You can clean injectors yourself by simply running them in a small ultrasonic jewellery cleaner with 5 volts connected to the injector to hold it open. Phil

I think I suggested Guzzi Classics in Long Beach before, try him. He’s not good on emails but will respond to a phone call. Then there’s Harper’s. They too respond better to a call. Here are a few. Bevelboxes.

There was one guy at work who used a 360 cam as a dash cam on his motorcycle. That way he could get full video coverage with one camera.

May be worth inquiring on the Quota Facebook page or on Wildguzzi or MGNOC if anyone has a spare one lying around. Some quota owners have multiple quotas, it wouldn't surprise me if they have stockpiled some parts as well.

Cheaper and more convenient, I agree. Easier? so far, I only found the one on eBay, which bevelled box looks terrible.

Got my V11 up and running after getting my friend Jason Wallace out to help. Seems one of the injectors is running sub par and so I'm going to try some injection cleaner and then go from there. I just wanted to post on this old thread because there was good advice here.

I thought the Quota used the 8/33? No matter. I’d certainly opt for the lower gear option. With regard to buying *New* the factory hasn’t made 7/33 gear sets for donkey’s years. I’d be surprised if even 8/33 sets were available ex-factory now. Most of the stuff available nowadays relating to gearboxes, final drives, clutches etc. is aftermarket. Some of it is fine, although how long this will remain the case remains to be seen. Most gear-like stuff though is generally contracted by Stucchi I believe. It may be sold through other vendors but I think they are the player in the older parts game and, once again in my experience, their quality can be less than stellar! This isn’t always the case so I suppose it depends on who bids for the work and whether they are credible. Fact remains I’ve built some pretty shoddy gears into boxes for people and have always told them this exactly. Sadly, if you go the rebuild route, these potentially wonky gears are your only option. The videos you linked show how the pinion carrier is a sliding fit in the box. If you’re afraid you might damage the casing by biffing the carrier flange and it’s tight? Just stick a lord of heat into it with a blowtorch! You aren’t going to be re-using anything that’s inside the box in terms of bearings or gears.

I can see the cam being a good idea, people lie to the police and insurance. Had a cage wreck a few years ago, not my fault, officer wrote the other driver a ticket for failure to yield. Went to file with his insurance, he told his insurance about the incident, but said police were not called, no ticket issued. I had to provide them the accident report and it was resolved after that. Luckily when I had my V11 accident, as I was on the stretcher in the back of the ambulance, the State Patrol officer told me not to worry about the helicopter ride, it would be on the other driver as he pointed to the two side by side skid marks from her lane into my lane with my heavily modified rake greenie lay on its side at the end of the skid marks....

@audiomick I found a tutorial of what you need to do to adjust the flange and the pinion. The Guzzi manual shows what you should achieve, and what to do in case the wear is not as in example #1. He explains that the one he is showing has done 200,000 km. And the pinion ate the spline.

Forgot to mention you can disassemble the electronic fuel tap as well to clean it if needs be. Phil

I will say ,the poor battery connections were responsible for all the problems you ended up with.

Oooooh, yes . . . .

And inspect thr wiring at the connectors. If the wiring looks burnt , it will no longer "work". Cut back until you find fresh wiring.

You need to move the wiring from that 30A socket to a new and better socket, such as a Maxi Fuse. The original socket is not capable of enduring continuous high current. Contact resistance in the original fuse holder will melt the next 30A fuse. There are many posts about the 30-amp fuse on this site.

I know turning 137,000 miles doesn't seem like much to celebrate. But I'm celebrating, anyway. ( I intended this to be my 20,000th post, but I used that to reference fixing a broken link that @mikev had pointed out. As it should be, I reckon! )

Works for me: https://en.tlm.nl/search-results-page/?q=Used cardan