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He’s fortunate because he lost his legs in a road accident and our third party insurance scheme has covered his entire recovery and return to work. The amount of assistance he has received has been outstanding and although nothing is perfect it means that rather than being a lost soul, probably unable to work, he has his own business, working from home, with all the equipment needed to, if not overcome, at least mitigate, his acquired disability. Everyone moans about the cost of our registration and CTP, (Compulsory Third Party.) insurance for vehicles. Well I will never moan again. What better thing than there be than keep people alive and contributing? He’s also an outstanding mechanic. Far better than I ever was.

I fitted RAM clutch to Scura. I used the pushrod receiving cup from the original Scura clutch in the RAM. Original pushrod didn't work w the RAM cup. Worked fine.

Took an old roto-ho to some farmer friends over the mountain. Got a few vaguelia looks along the way.

The 'Bard of Bugendore'. 😁

But how is his poetry?

Yes. Right again. I should clean the dirt before commenting. The slave seems to weep a tiny amount of fluid when actuated, there is movement, not sure if it is sufficient. The piston moves about 1/8th of an inch proud of the inner face of the slave.

It's a 2004 Nero Corsa. But starting in 2002, they are all the same with regard to frame and brace. You'll find two bolts. When looking from the outside, they will be at both 6 and 9 o'clock positions.

Best I've ever carried was a full size rocking chair (many years ago) on the back of a Honda 550/4. Cheated a little bit though with the girlfriend holding on to the chair riding pillion :-). That relationship didn't last long for some reason .

The subframe is not welded to the upper frame (unless that has been done a previous owner.) Here is a link to a picture showing that I had the subframe power coated, but not the spine frame. There are two bolts going through a plate that is welded to the diagonal brace that blocks access to the clutch slave. (go to the 3rd page of that thread, Dec 29, 2021 for the most relevant picture). This brace does not exist on the red-short-frame bikes, I think it was added for rigidity, and the design compromised access to the cylinder. I am almost certain that you have to remove the subframe in order to get to the clutch cylinder. IIRC - you will need to remove the shift linkage too.

Just for fun, besides the misspelling (and I don't mean PORBETTI for BORLETTI ). Poor Betty . . .

Well since the probability of me needing it again is lower than a walrus's belly button, maybe I should send it to you. Can you PM your address?

The slave is a bone-simple device with 2 component parts. What I would call the block and the plunger. Within the block is at least 1 very thin seal could be 2. If you put a little compressed air to the hydraulic line inlet the plunger will pop right out. Not too much air, it does not take a lot. If I press on my slave which is part number 01 08 63 30, and built by Grimeca it will slide down into the bore of the block about 3/16" or more. It will extend from the block about a 3/4" or so before it will come free from the block. Not sure if that answers your question. I think the V11 slave cylinders were all the same and not specific to single or multi-plate clutches, but others likely know more than I do on that topic.

JGP, does your clutch slave piston sit proud of or below the top of the cylinder? The parts link posted above *appears* to have the same slave as I ordered from Oberon, but doesn't fit my 2000- I wonder if it fits single-plate clutch bikes?

Okee, finally got the transmissing on the bench for a lookat. It's had the slider recall done, has a Dr. Phil's shift extender on it, I have the return spring to install should it need that. However The thing has sat for about 8 years with the rear cover off- in a cardboard box, under a bench- dry enough to show only the tiniest bit of surface rust on the gear faces, but the output shaft bearing is tight. I don't see rust, probably mung, but with ~63k miles and I have to disassemble it for the output bearing (Right? It appears to shoulder from the forward end of the shaft) I may just give it all new bearings. Had a search, I didn't see a thread on disassembly...who's holding? I have no shop manual for the 6 speed. I could fake it but I'm very short on time available if it has any chance at all of making the S'n Spine Raid this year.

That's what I was wondering. Thanks.

Some people are fortunate !

Thanks. I never took the replacement Ram unit apart to confirm that the original clutch pushrod 'cup' was interchangeable and thought that you might know, if only for future reference. Turning down the end will work just as well. Nice tool box. 👍

No I suggested to machined down the pushrod end to fit but this may work as well .Not sure with the latest RAM clutches if parts are interchangeable with the original. Phil

I had the same issue with my Tenni when trying to fit a 5 speed clutch that was supplied as a 6 speed unit some years ago. I returned it. In hindsight, I suspect that the original clutch pushrod 'cup' (around 8mm diameter) could have been used with the 5 speed Ram clutch, which arrives ready assembled. Obviously, you would have to take the assembled unit apart to fit it. I never tried this or confirmed that it would work. This is a photo of the original Tenni clutch pushrod 'cup', which is branded Ram. Was this the solution you suggested Phil?

Forgot to mention, thats a very nice crane there. Some more details and picks of that would be nice. I'd love a spacious shop as well someday. In the mean time I've retired my 48YO old career long toolbox for something new. Not very stand out, a bit stealth. Biggest drama will be remembering what tools are in what draw.

OK, stand down. Phil’s sorted me out!

top of my list in a few years when I “cut back on work”, which is my version of retirement, is to spend a bunch of time touring australia. the missus will go, so it’ll be a combo of renting a bike for some strategic touring here and there, as sub-routines of the main car or camper touring with her.

Interesting to note, I am not sure what model bike that is, but your sub-frame cross-member bolts to the 6 o'clock position on the left pork chop. Mine bolts to the 9 o'clock position (when looking at the pork chop from the outer face). Not as quite as obvious to see that it is bolted. It will teach me to look closer. Thanks again.

I just confirmed. In your photo, upper left attachment point of the cross-member is bolted to the cylindrical portion of the frame through the pork chop. I had thought it was welded to the cylindrical portion, which is itself welded to the upper frame. Should be easy to remove. Many thanks!

Back to the topic at hand. All the clutch related info is interesting however, i am still hoping for resolution with my NOS slave cylinder. I ventured back to this project thinking I was somehow going to remove the sub-frame bolts from the pork chops, loosen the lower connection points to the motor and then somehow swing the sub-frame a little to give some clearance to the slave cylinder. The sadist that designed that sub-frame has it welded to the upper frame member so, it will not move independently from the upper frame. Now, I am thinking I may be able to remove all upper frame member connections to the motor except, the most forward attachment point. I plan to loosen that connection and try to lift the entire upper frame and subframe so that it pivots a little on that front connection point. However, there is very little clearance between the drive shaft and a cross member of the sub-frame. I am hoping that if I take the shield for the U-joint off of the drive shaft, it will provide enough room to give me an inch or 2 so I can get at the slave cylinder. If anyone has thoughts on this feel free to provide them. This is the "stretched" version of the V11 frame. So, what is applicable to the "tiny" sub-frame models, may not apply.

Funny that, because, being a circuit, everything in it is equally important. Otherwise, the circuit wouldn't be a circuit, but rather maybe a semi-circle or a drag-strip or something.

Plowing through the parts fisches at Harpers, the first thing I could find that takes a different slave arrangement from this V11 is the 2007 8v Griso. I wonder...if I could bore the case and use the Griso bearing bits and pushrod. I have to inventory everything now that I have the transmission in hand, I have the throwout bearing and pushrod but haven't seen the bearing/pushrod hat. Meh. Looks like everything is very different, and the correct slave is only $90.

No need to get one made up you just use a genuine RAM clutch. They don't crack. The issue is and the reason I asked Pete the question I did was that I suspect the reason the single platers crack is because the big steel plate that the bolts go through and clamps on the face of the flywheel has a sharp edge to it around it's circumference and thats what initiates the cracking from a stress riser it creates. When I installed mine I bevelled that edge so it didn't bit into the flywheel face when the bolts were torqued up. Possible not a case of poor flywheel material.

As I've mentioned before the easiest way to fit throttle bodies and TB rubbers is to remove the inlet manifold from the head. The reason? because the TB's are set at an angle to the cylinders and the "natural" neutral tension position is only achieved when they are the correct distance front to rear from the heads. You can wrestle and grunt them around to flex the rubbers and make then fit but it's hard on the throttle bodies and their mounts. Far, far easier to simply remove the aluminium manifold straight push the manifold onto the rubbers and move the aluminium manifold forward again to align with the head surface and bolt it up. No stress no pushing and pulling. Phil

How extraordinary our forum, and very specifically @audiomick came through on this matter!

That seems the likely candidate to me. As you said yourself, if something is shorting out, it would be prone to blow fuses. If there is an intermittent contact somewhere, things will just stop working, and when you wiggle it all to get the contact back, start working again. Until the contact gets lost again. PS: it might be in the wire where there is a stress point, for instance, or a connector that is not sitting properly or going bad due to long-term poor contact.

That'll be me. Ooo, pretty colors! What shall it be? lol Red. For all the world to see.

I went to my garage today, thinking to re-install the fork legs. It occurred to me that it would be wise to have a look at the steering head bearings when it is already mostly apart. Inevitably, they need replacing. Who would have thought? I don't think I have done anything on this bike yet without discovering one or more other issues in the process.

I know turning 137,000 miles doesn't seem like much to celebrate. But I'm celebrating, anyway. ( I intended this to be my 20,000th post, but I used that to reference fixing a broken link that @mikev had pointed out. As it should be, I reckon! )

IMOC ride last Saturday. The best bike to stand behind was chosen!

Turns out she also had ALL those symptoms, but I hadn't noticed as I had not been riding in full darkness (came home just about sunset). Replaced relay #2 and all is good again. And this is why I carry spare relays under the seat, even though I had previously replaced all the stock relays with Omrons.