Tinus89

As in, leaking oil or actually loosing compression? Possibly replaced the gaskets recently and did not re-torque the heads after a while? Otherwise I have never seen that happen on a bigblock Guzzi...

Hi people, As I pointed out in the Red&Black frame topic, I added the frame-gearbox connection plate to my 2001 (40.000km) V11. When I did so, I also removed the oil return line (frame->sump) for the welding. As pics say more then words, here is what I found: The banjo bolt is clearly corroded from the outside. The inside was full of debris, which I removed and put on this wash cloth: Note: this debris only comes from the banjo bolt! I then flushed the oil return line using brake cleaner, into a plastic bag. Clearly visible are some hard metallic particles, 2-4mm in size. Another observation is when I drained my sump, there was one very 1-2mm metal particle attached to the magnetic oil plug. So clearly, the moisture from temperature differences, collects in the frame tube/oil separator and causes corrosion inside the frame tube. Aside from metal particles getting into the engine oil (I'm not to worried about that with the mesh filter and oil filter in place), but how about corrosion of the frame tube? Should we all be worried?

Escorted my dad on his 3.5yr owned BMW 1200RT to trade it in to the right brand of bike His in the front, mine in the back.

As I had mentioned in this topic: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20337&hl= my gearbox had cracked, probably due to dropping the bike once. As suggested in the topic by a bunch of you guys, I felt adding the brace with the new gearbox from Rolf was the way to go. Last week I finally found the time! Some pics: Making a cartboard tryout. Steel insert ready for welding. Welded and paint restored. Not the greatest paint job I know, but once the bike was put together you could not see it anymore:). Connecting plate painted in the right colour. Let's hope she never has to hold anymore (as in: I don't ever drop her anymore), but if I do, that this will be sufficient in order to protect the gearbox!

On my '01 V11 (stock, except for K&N filters and a different flywheel/clutch), I've always had coughs under 3000rpm. This was cured up to 70% by doing the decent tune up several times (eventually I got the best result by adjusting idle balance using the white knob, and having air bypass screws just 1/2 turn open. Adjusting idle using air bypass screws does not have a desired effect on my bike) and another 20% by adjusting the CO trim upwards a little (somewhere around +25 now). I have also had pinging on some hot days, with throttle > 50% and rpm in the range of 3500Wow. Not only did some tinkering (with thought behind it, not just changing numbers randomly) with the fueling in that area (increase in 10-15% of fuel) completely solve the pinging, it also caused for a better pull through those rpm ranges! Good luck:)

My bike features that exact tensioner (I put it in myself) but also features the 3k stumble. Sorry.

Don't forget to let us know how they sound...

Cleaned my switch yesterday, all good again!

Took her for a 260km ride today. COLD in the shed. Cranked over very slow *hunk hunk hunk hunk oh-oh .... hunk .... brrraaahw!* Pfew. Slick as hell in the morning, almost lost her when the front wheel went left and the rear decided to try and pass.... But boy, does that girl pull like a f*cking freight train at 2degC outside! Broke my indicator button. Does not want to move left anymore, and barely right. There seems to be some kind of blockage in the switch. Anyone ever had this issue (and solved it)?

Nice! White suits it, is it the original color? Also good to see another Dutchy here:)

Are you sure the leak is not coming from the crankcase breather hose (which is also in the picture I think?). Mine coughs up some watery/mayonaise like drips from that on a cold start. Same colour.

I would love to, but can't seem to find a proper sized, affordable pressure gauge in Europe... How in heaven's name do you get the bullet connector inside that rubber cover? After I lightly tapped the malfunctioning flasher relay with a screwdriver, she behaved again for a minute, then slowly increasing pace again. The replacement flasher relay works fine... Could there still be a short somewhere?

Hey all, So I have two questions regarding the fabulous V11 electrical and sensory system: 1. When I put the ignition on, my oil pressure light does not salute me anymore. When I take the bullet connector off it and ground that somewhere, the light turns on again. Am I right to conclude my oil pressure sensor has heeled over? 2. In the last 6000km, Bella Rosso has eaten two flasher relays already. One was an open failure, the other one was nearly blinking faster than I could see. Is this normal in your experience? I did have a friend advise me to use a "relay holder" (fancy word for a piece of rubber tie-ripped to the frame) to prevent them from failing, which I did when I installed the 3rd one tonight. Cheero,

I'm also reading with a lot of interest Meinolf!

Guys and girls, question time: when (re)assembling the exhaust system, the only seal/gasket in place is the one at the heads. Aside from snugging up all connections nice and tight, do you do anything else to prevent exhaust leaks?

Buying or trading? I can see a set of Stainless ones on your pic?

After installing a different set of exhausts (same model, insurance) and filling her up with a full tank of EUR95 fuel, she was pinging badly in the range of 4k-5.5k rpm at WOT. It was hot that day, around 25degC, which usually worsens it quite, but still. It was bad. I've had my suspicions of the TPS for a while now, because of some coughing at idle and around 3k rpm. She is standard aside from airpods. Made some graphs using GuzziDiag and identified a hump at the same position each time. Using a multimeter I read out the resistance, which also moved quite a bit whilst slowly opening the throttle. I had enougj reason to spend the money. Purchased the PF3C from Exactuk.com for about 90 eur. Installed her today, went for a ride at 35degC(!!). At this temperature, still with the same 95 fuel in the tank, I would accept some minor pinging/detonation. Ho Ly Mo Ly What a difference. Idle is better (she now can idle at 1000rpm - still likes 1100rpm better though - but never could do that), and she pulls like a freight train. Some minor pinging at WOT around 3k rpm, but hey, I don't spend a lot of time there with WOT anyway and it was hot outside and I still had the same 95fuel. In short: if you really suspect your TPS: - The PF3C from ExactUK.com works perfect - It really is worth it!

How exactly did you clean the injectors?

Took me a while, but here is a pic of the bottom:

I've had some issues setting CO trim myself, but discovered the engine needs to be a lot above 80degC. If around 78degC, there is no error message, but it just does not save the setting. Even above 80deg C, I had to try a number of times to get it right. The order of saving/switching off/on etc also plays a role.

So the way the sidestand has it's "toe" upwards on the right side of my pic, already shows it must only wear on the heel. I'll take a picture tonight. Lumpyness of idle does not impact that much, in my experience. Because of the way the side stand is oriented, it acts as a sort of spring, which makes the bike move forwards or backwards (not sure) when idling. Even when I raise the idle to 3000rpm, she still moves. Vibration does a lot of damage in engineering;). Relative soft aluminium vs unfinished concrete, add vibration and some weight in the mix, and you have significant wear. No wonder a lot of bike makers (especially with big twins) use steel for side stands...

Mine also wears (and the foot is not flat on the floor). Floor is unfinished concrete, and when she idles she slowly "walks" backwards, about 3-5cm per minute Here's a pic:

Shiloh, You have two TDC's for each cilinder: compression stroke (both valves closed) and 360deg ahead exhaust stroke (valves NOT closed). If you can't spin the pushrods, you most likely have the exhaust stroke. Turn the engine 360deg and try the same cilinder again.

Thanks Walterg, PM sent! On the aftermarket cans: I definitely see this as an opportunity! But which would you guys prefer for sound+engine quality? Mistral oval? Mistral Titanium? One remark: I would like to keep the possibility of taking someone for a ride, i.e. passenger footrests.

Please do let me know! I know. I have been in contact with dad and we together decided Insurance is the way to go. That means.... I should have two options: - Find a used one (or set) for less money - Find a nice set of aftermarket once. As I see this as an opportunity: what would you guys recommend?