swooshdave

I don't like the way it running. I suspect I need to up the CO Trim. Also what do the air bypass screws do and why is it suggested to set them at one turn out?

No error codes. Ran the CO Trim adjustment again this time pausing for a while after the kill switch step. That may have done it as it staying at 0. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Left one is pretty much stripped. If I can I'll Timesert them and never have to worry again. Finished the tuned up. TB sync was pretty much on at 3k. Finally got CO Trim to 0. Just waited longer after the it asks you to use the kill switch. I think that did it. Idle is right about 1050. Air bleed screws were way off. I tightened them up and backed out one full turn. Riding tomorrow so I hope to see a big difference. I'm mostly concerned with a vibration at 4K but I've also heard that's not uncommon. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Did you just have a washer under the head? Maybe an oring would work? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Perfect. I have 6mm adapters for the vacuum gauges. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is this what the port you run the vacuum balances looks like? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm not sure, I'm a little shy about posting... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1157 bulbs are asymmetrical. So you'd have to try pretty hard to reverse them. Not saying it can't be done. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It even says Moto International on the head guard? Nice! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, one filament (running) should always be on. You are now in troubleshooting mode. Now do the opposite. Disconnect the front switch and reconnect the back brake switch. What happens? It almost sounds like a short in the front brake switch, but that's just conjecture at this point. Are you saying that you've never had a functioning brake light for as long as you've had the bike? What does the wiring for the bike look like? Like someone has messed with it a lot?

Now we need to see a picture of the gloves!

Brake light switches (lever and foot) might be stuck. I'd start there. Take them off and clean. Make sure switches work. Both can get dirty because of their location in the elements.

I'll look at amending the Decent Tune-up and Basic Guzzidiag Tutorial for V11 to emphasize these issues. Thanks, gentlemen! http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=69168.msg1420780#msg1420780 beetle says errors shouldn't have an effect. I'll try to hook up tonight and see what I see.

Or go with red lights. Still visible but not as blinding as white.

If this is an elitist group... I'm in! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Candy Lime Green bike and the guy is worried about being to garish... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Over on Wild Goose I posted the same thing and it was mentioned to wait 30 seconds between the CO Trim steps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ugh. I thought I was being cute. Remember the two wires by the ODBII connector? That don't do anything? Well, one is a ground and the other I don't know. So I used the ground one for the grips. Heck, it was handy. Ignition on = Grips on. Bike running = Grips off. WTF? Turns out that mystery ground? Ungrounds when bike is running. Again... WTF. So I grounded to the ECU body and all is good, heated grips. Power is tapped from #6 fuse. Positaps are perfect for this. Oh, did I mention I had to pull the inner fender off because the fuse panel screws were stuck? Yeah, that was fun. Still cool here tomorrow but dammit if I don't have heated grips! Back to the DMV tomorrow. Maybe third time and I'll get the title...

When I had the headlight open the city light didn't come on. I need to recheck that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've already ran the wires back to the fuse panel area so I'll tap in there. More later! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Perfect! Don't need the lens cover! I'll PM you my address and get your PayPal. Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Isn't the city light wire cold unless it's in park? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wonder how that would last on the valve covers.

Any chance you took a look for those signals?

You don't need to pull the tank.. but you *do* need that ground wire. You'll be sorry if you let that 10 minute job slide. Does someone have a clearer picture of the regulator and how they ran the ground? It's tough to tell from Scud's photo.