Pressureangle

Well here, 'clan' carries only a little baggage, particularly if you grew up around any UK communities. I'll give them latitude for being Italians. clan (n.) "a family, a tribe," especially, among the Highlanders of Scotland, a form of social organization consisting of a tribe holding land in common under leadership of a chieftain, early 15c., from Gaelic clann "family, stock, offspring," akin to Old Irish cland "offspring, tribe," both from Latin planta "offshoot" (see plant (n.)). The Goidelic branch of Celtic (including Gaelic) had no initial p-, so it substituted k- or c- for Latin p-. The same Latin word in (non-Goidelic) Middle Welsh became plant "children."

There *is* money in waiting. I once surfed eBay for over 3 years looking for a correct front fender for a '62 Norton Atlas. When one finally came around, it was near $400 with only 3 bidders. Rarified air, but unobtanium.

I've used eBay since nearly it's beginning. It was simple, the people were honest, and cheap. Now, it's a nightmare; fees are high, flooding by new product makes finding pearls difficult, 'sponsored' product pushes your searched items out, can't even find the 'used' condition button without scrolling. It's so blatantly engineered to capitalize volume at the expense of your economy that I won't even list anything I can't get $20 for, when I used to list anything I thought someone would want usually starting at $0. I can't imagine trying to make a living on eBay (as my neighbor does, and quite a decent living too) So I cut some slack to those listing used parts at 'ridiculous' prices, because they're running a business, at least of sorts. But I lament the days of people just trying to help their hobby community by not throwing parts in the bin. Done crying for now...

Ever see a moment pass by when you have specific information, but wonder if it should see the light of day? This is one of those moments. There was a discussion about oil pumps back in the '90s when I was racing 883 Sportsters. They have a georotor oil pump. The question at hand, an academic one, is why H-D went to georotor after decades with a gear pump in that place. One guy who happened around during the discussion was an automotive engine builder of some renoun; he said he'd been told that gear pumps with high pressures had the problem of pressure spikes when they were too tight, and that bleeding mitigated those spikes. No consequence of those spikes was put forth. The trade-off was that idle oil pressure was reduced. Upon building a small-block Chevrolet for my pickup truck last summer, I saw offered a spiral-cut gear pump for high-pressure/performance applications, with the claim to reduce pressure spikes. The claim was that these pressure spikes increased hydraulic lifter pump-up particularly in 'stock' or 'limited modification' engines. Meh. Who knows? H-D went to the Georotor pump at the same time they started using hydraulic lifters in the Sportsters. I do know that in most American engines, distributor/oil pump drive gears are a point of failure, and it's critical to choose compatible components. Maybe there's something there on the durability scale. My daily navel-gazing.

Read this thread. My starter seized the front bearing and had apparently been the root of hard starting for quite some time before complete failure. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/23219-starters-batteries/#comment-265184

Tangent thread; circa 2001 I went to Stockholm, Sweden for two weeks. The first Saturday night we were walking towards downtown when I heard a familiar rumble. A few moments later a parade of a dozen or twenty American muscle cars rolled by like it was Woodward Avenue. I laughed out loud. Glorious.

If you really want the best quality, as mentioned above there are a number of brands that are arguably equivalent in durability, but the nationwide professional brands are Snap-On, Matco, and MAC. Personally I'm a Snap-On customer, as they have the largest distribution network anywhere I've been. I won't make an assertion today, but 20 years ago all the hand tools were made in USA. They have the sub-brand Blue-Point, which are good tools with warranty but are usually re-branded outsiders found less expensively elsewhere. Meh.

I was brass-deep in the restoration of a 1975 RR Camargue. Ugh...4 piston brake calipers, 2 calipers per wheel, cross-linked accumulators for the brake system, etc. Amazingly complex and completely unneccessary. The engine, however, was positively sublime. It was weak by American standards, but once made new you literally couldn't tell if it was running or not with the hood down. Sleeved iron block, aluminum cylinder heads, replaceable aluminum lifter blocks, huge diameter camshaft. I became enlightened about the practice of delivering Man's best effort, as opposed to an economical effort. The burled maple interior was book-matched side to side, and Rolls cataloged every other set of veneer between cars, to facilitate as in our case the replacement of a piece of wood with matching grain. I hated the car but the experience was Religious.

Since when did the Germans constrain complexity to utility?

Not to take a ridiculous side trip, but I can't think of a single WWII tank that was boosted. Aircraft usually, Messerschmitt's variable supercharger was a decade ahead of everyone else's.

My hyperbole and sarcasm is always lost.

Before the fight starts, can we all just agree that forced induction as an addition demands an order of magnitude more development and tuning to the point that you've equaled the engineering of an OEM?

Not a Sport airbox. Couldn't find a picture of an uncovered Centauro airbox.

These are legit, I did the research and bought them myself. Was considering buying another batch to store and toss out all the used spares I have.

Bicycle has been the only physical therapy that's kept me mobile for 30 years. I'm convinced it's the only reason I haven't had to have surgery myself, both knees and lower back. Also, I can't overstate how much benefit in stiffness and joint pain I found in eliminating sugar and reducing carbs from my diet.

Electrical engineers can afford amp probes.

Ok, some easy checks. If you have a multimeter, measure and record the voltage differential across these points; If you don't have a voltmeter to use, a 12v test lamp will work except on the battery cranking voltage. Battery voltage while static vs. cranking Battery terminal to cable Battery + cable to starter solenoid terminal Starter body to transmission house Transmission house to Battery - cable Battery - cable to battery Battery voltage cranking should not drop below 10.5 volts Voltage drop across the above test points should not exceed .5 volts No test across a connection should have sufficient current to illuminate a test light. I just replaced the starter on my Sport-i because it had a seized bearing, which presented as a bad battery. Cranking voltage was ~5.5v.

It was listed for Daytona/Centauro/Sport 1100.

~$230 + $30 shipping. 32k kilometers. Even if I have to replace the u-joints they're unobtanium. This shaft is for Daytona/Sport 1100, the exposed external spring type. Once it's in hand I'm going to present it to a CV joint/shaft manufacturer to see if they can make one with the required specs to refit. I'm sure if it can be done it won't be cheap, but that's just the kind of guy I am.

Scored a good used driveshaft assembly on TLM's webshop. Unexpected and probably wasn't up long.

I knew somebody had a thread on this. I don't close it regularly, and it has never leaked; If it starts to leak I'll get into it again. The knob didn't want to come off without a fight after leaving the threads, I didn't want to risk destroying anything so went with what I could do. I'll bookmark your thread and get the proper sized o-rings into inventory if there's a measurement in the thread.

...installed a voltmeter while I had the tank off. It's grounded to the fairing frame, takes keyed power from an unknown unused plug in the fairing, and zip-tied to the ignition switch housing. Vmeter

While I had the tank off cleaning and sealing electrical connections, I took the opportunity to remove and service the fuel valve. Clearly everyone who has/had one knows what an inoperable nag they become, and I had to turn mine off with pliers this time. I started with the knob, I took the snap ring off and spun it down so I could lubricate the threads. I used 'Fluid Film' wax oil for that. Then unscrewed the filter tower to see inside: petcock It was nasty with white scale, as expected. I used Gumout carb & choke cleaner first, with a bit of poking around with a copper wire to scrape what I could get to. When dried, I viced it and poured a little Marvel Mystery Oil in it, let it soak a few minutes then ran the valve in and out to get the oil into the operation of the pintle. Unexpectedly, it worked a charm and now it's smooth and as easy as I'd expect going past an o-ring or seal or whatever's inside the demon.

Just like that, but Fluke. It's an invaluable tool, no substitute when you need it, but I haven't used it for about 10 years before this. An absolute must for anyone working with electricity- I bought mine when working on electric forklifts. (Hi-Lo? Towmotor? Lift trucks? What do you call them there?)