Pressureangle

I don't usually touch this subject in the wild, but I'll stick this out there. I did a lot of homework, read a lot of medical and white papers and here's what I've discovered. Disclaimer; the Medical Industrial Complex does not endorse this statement. Melatonin. early research into why age was such a significant contributor to mortality found that Melatonin uses the same ACE-2 receptors that COVID attaches to. Kids have a ton of natural melatonin, after 40 we make far less, and less as we age. Melatonin blocks COVID from attaching. I take 20mg before bed every night; discussing with a friend who has an unspecified congenital lung condition, she and her pulmonologist discovered that 20mg/day of melatonin is actually a known therapy for her condition. I'll save space and tell you that I and a few friends also discovered a marked improvement in lung capacity and ease of breathing after a month. You will feel like a 15 year old kid who sleeps all day for a while. YMMV. Vitamin D. Get it from the sun if you can. Sweat in the sun and don't wash it off for 3-4 hours. UV rays convert cholesterol in your sweat into Vit-D and you reabsorb that as a lotion; this mechanism is important to know, as the reaction takes place mostly on the surface, not in the skin so if you wash it off you get far less effect. Zinc. Zinc kills apparently nearly all viruses. But to do that it must be inside your cell walls, so you need to have a steady appropriate diet. Hydroxychloroquine has been in the news since day 1, but nobody wanted to say why; HCQ is an anti-parasitic, but in an unrelated mechanism chemically transports zinc to inside the cells. Even better, Ivermectin does the same, costs less, can be found everywhere (without prescription if you use veterinary Ivermectin and can do the math on dosage). I have apple-flavored horse Ivermectin, $6. I'll take it only if I get infected, though it has been around for 70 years and has zero side effects. I use Airborne or Emergen-C daily. Airborne works so provably well that the US Military has a NSN part number for it. I'll not be vaccinated under any circumstance, but that's a different and less friendly thread.

...Took the 11 month old Odyssey PC545 back to the store under warranty. This is the first Odyssey I've ever had fail. It simply shorted about 15 minutes from home.

Once upon a lifetime, I was working at a Texaco gas station in Belleville, Michigan, USA about 1985. A car full of people stopped for directions to the church up the street, for an extended family wedding. They were from Cork. They were flat hammered. Nobody cared and they apparently successfully navigated their way around. I've long since lost the contact information, but I did get a standing invitation to stay in Cork. It's on my long list of places to see.

Old Harley-Davidsons, particularly the sand-cast engines nearly always had some porosity. As you've done here, Glyptol was the most common answer, after a solvent bath and oven baking. V8 Automotive guys use it too. Interestingly, Jack Roush Engineering used (uses?) copper plating on the entire block, because it can in no way peel off and compromise integrity.

"...support is a little skimpy..." LOL I ride a Moto Guzzi... Ah hain't skeert none. Florida has 3 MG dealers and 5 RE dealers.

Excellent. I'd heard of her but didn't think she had so much on her website. Lots of downtime viewing. Thanks.

Soooo.... Life takes odd turns, doesn't it? I've not left the plan to attend the IoM races in the relatively near future, but I have done some investigations on something with less politics and logistics. So, as I have a friend in Peru, I think I'll go there. Entry for people and things is *relatively* easy it appears, although at this moment they're still applying COVID lockdowns at least in Lima. I'll plan for some time after that eases- no sooner than next week lol. I'm sure some of you have been there. Has anyone ridden there? If you could have any bike there, what would it be? It's hard to get a grasp on the roads other than that they appear to be suitable to a horde of Chinese <250cc 'sportbikes'. I didn't see much dirt, but of course that isn't very touristy when selling your country. I was thinking a RE Himalayan, but then the distances between things I'd like to see are 2-3 days each way, so maybe 24hp isn't going to cut it. What's the speed limit? Is something dirt-road compatible mandatory? My knees are not up to 4 hours of hiking. What's the best season? I tend to like it warmer than most, although anything above 60ºF is cherry as long as it's dry. Anybody?

Edit; disregard. I left half of them in Ohio. I still have plenty. 21 January 2020. I have 2 plates left. I'll be ordering another 50 shortly- if it takes 2 more years to sell them, that's ok. E.

Here's the next question begged; Will 1100 Sport bodywork fit a V11 frame?

Has everyone who ordered a Roper plate received it in good condition? Just making sure nothing fell through the cracks. I have 4 remaining.

While musing about the Isle of Man, It occurred to me that the logistics would be easier and the event more interesting if I shipped the bike into Italy and rode it to IoM...

Bump!

The pipes are BUB. I'm not sure they're the best possible top end performance, but the thing pulls like a dump truck from 1500 RPM with the Web 86b cam.

If you can touch it firmly for 10 whole seconds, temp is 150* or less. Not a concern. The reg body is a heat sink; most have fins to air cool, some sink to the metal base they're bolted to which is why a clean solid attachment is required.

Who's here? Just got in!

I bought this one. I think my throttle sleeve has been shortened a bit from stock, and the rubber grip protrudes enough that I always thought I'd twiddle it a bit to make it perfect, but I have 12k miles on it without twiddling and I'm very happy with it. Thank you for shopping with us! We hope you'll write about your Kaoko Throttle Lock Cruise Control Suzuki GSX-R600 '96-'18, GSX-R750 '96-'18 & GSX-R1000 '01-'16 (With 16.8mm Handle Bar Inside Diameter) while it's still fresh on your mind. -P

Footpeg brackets won't be cast, they are forged. They could be made of steel I suppose. They'd be expensive unless there's demand for quite a few, too. What's the factory price?

$85 in the U.S., maybe more depending on shipping to OCONUS destinations.

For what it's worth, I have about 20 plates left, and intend to keep them available forever. Pete Roper will always get license on any new production runs. Vic suggested that there may be other desirable components looking for manufacture; if so, suggest them and we can discuss demand and costs.

I've traveled a lot this year, oddly. May have to go to VietNam in a couple weeks. Must be the military immunization bloc. BTDT

What's the explanation for the power difference? Intake valve shrouding is the only thing that comes to mind.

I wrecked my knees on the hood of a Pontiac in 1980. My doctor told me ten years ago "You needed new knees years ago". I attribute my ability to get around as well as I do to cycling. If I go a couple months without regular bicycling (for you jokers) I knot up, cramp up and suffer. Cycling is zero impact and high range-of-motion exercise. It's important to get comfortable with clip-in pedals, so you can involve your hamstrings and hip flexors in a balanced effort. I'll second the Magnesium as well, Potassium doesn't seem to help with cramps but Magnesium does. Also, if you have lower back pain, try rolling a towel and using it under your lower back area, even if you're a side sleeper to keep your spine straight. A soft mattress kills me after 3-4 nights, so consider that; if you have a very soft mattress, consider sleeping on the sofa or try putting the couch cushions on the floor and sleeping on them, see if that doesn't help significantly.

I bought my '85 LM with the 16" stock wheel, didn't like it at all. Poor feedback, insecure, twitchy-while-disconnected feel. It had Metzeler lazer on the front. I found an 18" front, which I ran for about 30,000 miles. It was dead stable with any tire I put on it. I'm in S. Florida, so there was never any way to know how it cornered. Fast forward ten years, I completely rebuilt the bike from the crankshaft up to pass along to my son. After some consideration, I installed the 16" front with Continentals; at the same time I installed Works Performance shocks, 1/2" longer than the stock Konis; Upgraded fork springs and FAC dampers. After some spirited if limited local riding, I ended with the forks out of the top triple clamp about an inch. These are the steel clamps, I have no way to know if they're 'original' or 'kit' trees, and don't know the exact difference. Ultimately, the thing was a lumber wagon with the 18", perfect for fast straight riding but with proper setup the 16" is perfectly stable with good feedback and confidence, while being enormously easier to turn in all circumstances. It's possible that the thing just really hated the Metzeler front it came with, but I never tried something else before the swap. So there's no definitive answer, but that there is no inherent problem with the 16" front. You just have to find what it likes.

This is a very old post, but you know how it is. I've signed up for a new Staintune system for the 'Sport. Currently, it has what appears to be a FBF crossover on it, with Mistral short cans. For what it's worth, the FBF cracked on the center weld and was repaired by welding then welding a reinforcement strip about 1/2" wide around the entire center joint. A very professional repair. So, when I installed the Jeffries MyECU, I made a place in the crossover for the O2 sensor; what I discovered then, is that there is actually *NO CROSSOVER*. The 'crossover' part is nothing more than the two pipes flattened and welded to each other, with no holes in between. Lovely engineering, eh? Perhaps it's better for power, I don't know, but calling it a crossover is a bit disingenuous. I have to wonder what Stucchi has done there. Meh.

The U-joint phasing is critical; that is, the front and rear yokes must be in perfect alignment. Assembling a spline off will eventually kill the joints or gears, unless it shakes your seat off first. That said, if the spline count is even, you can align them at 0* or at 180* with no difference- except that if you put the front zerk up and the rear zerk down, you can grease both zerks without turning the wheel in between.