Kevin_T

Beautifull! What can I say I sweet spot for these honey's. Is that one of Cycle Garden's paint jobs? Also are those police bars?

The motor isn't externally balanced but I would put it back together the way it came apart. Meaning flywheel in correct spot. Least you don't have to worry about intermediate plates.

I don't mean to mess with your head it's just the phrase, "I think it's running lean". My problems are not yours I only shared it to keep you from doing something drastic. A good flow chart would look like: Grooming your exhaust making sure there isn't any leaks and the engagement on the joints are good. Follow yours doctors advise and do what he prescribed with a good tune up. Check your electrical connections and relays reducing voltage drops and spikes. Do another good tune up. Clean throttle bodies, and injectors. Do another good tune up. Then start with fuel trim and possibly maps. The fact that something has changed with the Mistral modification is good. If it didn't change the fuel mixture in some way would mean they're nothing more than 900 dollars worth of cosmetic jewelry.

Please don't just blindly think that you need more fuel to solve all your problems. I'm a victim of such a previous owner. Running too rich a mixture is destructive to your engine as well. Those nikasil cylinders are sensitive to having the oil washed off the walls. Setting trim a little here or there is fine but if you want to go far it's going to require data logging. I mean the previous owner of my bike was just Bat Sh*t Crazy. I should have never bought the bike. After riding it a while I could smell the fuel in the oil. Many many Problems.

Has anyone degreed the cam with the chain and then the gear set? Just wonder if there is any difference at all.

The clutch is probably put together wrong. If it wasn't lined up correctly the amount engagement would mean you'd have about 35mm instead of 2mm. Lay a straight edge over the mating face of the trans the input hub should be about 20mm in the bellhousing with the single plate clutch. A twin plate is going to be flush.

I wrote that about 5 hours earlier, but when I tried to submit the website kicked me out and I thought I lost the post.

The push rod for the clutch on a 6-speed trans is 8 mm its 6 mm for a 5-speed. So, you Will need the thrust cup from a 6-speed trans (they fit right in). Also, you'll need the right input hub. The length of the splines on the ram clutch are .6900 inches the normal 6 speed is .9040 and for the 5 speed the splines are .9675. The 5-speed hub sits a little proud but looking at the wear pattern there is more than enough room for the plates to work freely. You asked the question should I reuse the old flywheel. Did you check for cracks? The pictures looked awfully good. If you're going to revisit your clutch in about 15,000 miles, I might put it back in. If its 40,000 before you return NO WAY, would I reuse it. The cush drive is all the way downstream. The clutch on these bikes takes a quite the beating. Aluminum just isn't up to the task this kind of dynamic loading. If you went with the 5-speed Ram clutch the push rod will have to be reworked. If you go with centauro clutch you're going to need more force to pull in the clutch, and you'll give up a little of the engine snappiness. The trade off it might feel a little smoother.

I deleted the post as to not mislead anyone. I just seen this post and it met me were I'm at. I spoke without knowledge, before doing the homework. It's just how my bike was and I think I shall now call the bike the Caveat Emptor Express because this machine has some really funny stuff going on.

Happy Thanksgiving, I've been so Blessed and to give Thanks is just the appropriate response.

At that age you can persevere through just about anything. Not sure if the cramp buster is the best way to go but taking some of that stress off your shoulders and arms can go a long way. It's just when doing trips like this driving day after day things you normally would ignore have a way of manifesting themselves. Clothing that rubs you the wrong way can become a boil. Pressure points in your helmet can become hot spots.

Let me ask a few questions here. What age are you? I ask because it's important, a couple years ago the wife and went to California drove close to 900 miles a day for 3 days. Now at 66 the wife and I went to Colorado a little over 600 miles a day for 2 days and that took a toll. If your late 50's you can recover quickly. (That's on the K1600) Do you have anything like a cramp buster? They are a poor substitute for cruise control, but if the wind coming off your fairing is hitting you in the helmet 4 days at 500 miles a day throw in the tension of throttle cable springs you could have tight neck and shoulder muscles. You mentioned camping? I love camping it's what I live for, but there is a time and a place for it. If you're going to use 6 days to go cross country go for it. You'll probably make a lot of stops along the way. Limited gas tank range and re-hydrate should still be hot. Although you get a couple extra hours. Your bike she's a beauty, above all have fun stay safe.

Anyone looking for a room at Tellico Lodge might want to check with Bryan. I had to cancel the other day room 101. Should have said it sooner.

I also had that problem. The gasket was sucked in. Thought the P.O. just didn't know how to install a valve cover gasket, but the number of people reporting this makes wonder. Docc talks about his original valve cover gaskets and that's fine for him, but some people seem to have an unnatural amount vacuum in their crankcase. A little bit of vacuum is a great thing but too much is going to pull blow by gases through the wrist pin. My bike pissed on the leg of my Stitch and I don't want my new Stitch baptized in the same manner.

I almost hate to resurrect this thread after it's been laid to rest but. If you're interested in temperature what about using the head temp sensor and a digital gauge. Guzzi-dia. gets its information from it along with the computer it would seem to be a less expensive route. Never heard of anyone doing it sounds like a less complicated way to go about it. When I got my Lemans I wanted to use it to commute. From time to time with traffic congestion I'm not sure at what point I should pull over and let the bike cool. As the bike gets really, really hot it has its own sounds and smells but, good science is good data. I don't want to take the temper out of my piston rings.

Ok, when I went to Glacier National Park, I just didn't have time to do Waterton Park, but after that video that is going on my list of rides that Needs to be done. Watching Nick tooling down the road on his Eldorado I could picture myself on my old scooter (Very entertaining).

Got to love P.O., I would try for used parts from bike wreckers like Pinwall or Guzzi-tech even E-bay. I was fitting some saddle- bags so I was digging into that section of the bike, and the original design is more than able to handle about any weight you could throw at it. I was kind of surprised when I saw your post.

This is interesting I have a High milage bike that blew the seal. When I rubbed my hand over the fork tube it felt like it was shoot peened for all the stones thrown at it. I contacted someone I thought could handle the job they tried to convince me I needed beauty chrome and not hard chrome so I never followed through So I'll keep an eye on this thread and learn. For removing threads with loctite I started using a very large soldering iron I mean it's about 350 watts. I do have an acetylene torch with a 000 tip, but I find the iron is much more locale heat.

John, can you give us a picture of your spark plugs and do a compression test. I know what can you tell by that , but a little information is better then none. I'm sure you've gone over this a 100 times but I was wondering about cylinder pressure. You could reduce your compression ratio by retarding your cam a few degrees it might give you what you need and wouldn't cost any money. I like the fan idea how many watts is it? Before you do anything more with the oil coolers I think would remove the turn signals and try some hybrid fairing. Of course if your stuck in traffic a fan is the only real solution and that's limited.

PM sent

I think the size was more dependent on making the rocker arm system work. All that protrudes out of the lifter bore is the very top. Is the cam base circle smaller then on the new engine.

Don't want to pirate your tread but, Wedge, Your Magni is pretty encapsulated (I guess would be the word) that's a lot of latent heat under her fairing, how much insulation do you have on the header pipes? I would hate to see that lovely paint start to blister.

You need to fashion that story into some kind of Greeting Card. From one Guzzi rider to another what its all about.

Having owned a 1984 RS /7 I can confirm a lot about what people are saying. What they aren't saying is bikes from that era although parts are available they can be very expensive. Sometimes BMW will surprise you and they'll be reasonable but not often and net engine parts. Then there is the problem of working on them true simple maintenance is pretty good but if need to dig deep into them your going to need a special tool to do almost anything. I mean it, its like some kind of sick German humor. What would take a few hours might take days because you'll be building a special tool or buying one. The technology is just different not better or worse just different. A Guzzi you could keep workshop manual on the self and never use its intuitive. Not a beemer, if you don't study your manual (and it better be a good one) you WILL SCREW something up. Handling? I guess they earn the name "Rubber Cow" but if you were smooth on it. It was a good handling machine for the time period. Better then my loop frame that's for sure.