po18guy

Guzzi seems to be the Colt's Patent Firearms of motorcycles - no two intentionally built alike. The color/fairing/handlebar combinations are seemingly inexplicable. BTW, I will be in your home town (is it still standing?) in about 1.5 hours on my '04 Ballabio.

Dual round headlights: Classic 80s endurance racing stuff. Look at the gen1 GSXRs.

The 2004 V11 is listed as having 9.8:1 compression. That and the head pipe crossover supposedly accounting for some added mid-range.

Might drop RaceBoltUK a line. They make genuine UK Stainless, Ti and even some alloy bolts in a wide variety of styles, including safety wire drilled. They offer kits, but I don't know about the V11. https://raceboltuk.com/

What a Magni should have looked like. Sounds like lightened flywheel, unless flat slides make that much of a difference.

You know, in an incoherent Guzzi electrical engineer sort of way (now there's a contradiction in terms!), grounding via the oil pressure switch makes sense. If there is oil pressure, no need for the starter. Thus, if the light is out, either the sender or the bulb is DOA. Note: mid 60s Ducati 250s had a mystery toggle switch on the taillight bracket. No one ever figured out what it did. Oddly, a guy on the Kawi EX500 forum advised me: That designer must have taught Guzzi a few tricks.

Thank you! I scored a couple of new 270º sweep vacuum gauges for $3 and change at a local surplus outfit. Their destiny was immediately apparent to me. 0.018" you say? Well, I have some Keihin jets from a couple of Kawasaki jet kits that I can slip into the hose and try. Kawi pilot jets are even smaller than that - 0.014" IIRC. I have mercury sticks, but I am somewhat ill at ease knowing that it could be ingested with one of my ham-handed slips of the wrist. Thanks again - it gives me a baseline.

My bad. Well, here goes some experimentation.

The tiny T5 sockets have rather fragile connectors in them. Have a look at a known good socket and chances are that the oil light socket contacts are dirty or bent out of shape. Carefully reshape them using a dental pick if you have one and do a live test. Some of the pressure exerted by the contacts on the bulb is caused by the rubber socket being squeezed into the gauge receptacle. With the key on, sometimes you can squeeze the socket and the bulb will light. As I found out, LEDs are polarized and if they don't light up, flipping them side-for-side or end-for-end will solve the problem. EDIT: Oh, joy! No ground. Now to consult the plate of spaghetti wiring diagram? Is the blue a common ground?

Hey docc, you mention restrictors in the manometer lines. Any idea of the size of the hole drilled in them? Have two vacuum gauges and am constructing a bush mechanic carb balancer.

Elmo del Capitano Italiano?

However, that is not only cycling the ignition switch, but also the famously troubled relays under the seat. I would check the associated relay also, as that can cause the same malfunction. Also, T5 LEDs are available and "might" be a little longer lived as well as being available in various colors.

There are threads about charging/conditioning the batteries. Here is he primary: For an AGM, Odyssey batteries are rather idiosyncratic. They need like 6 amps to properly charge (very few charger-maintainers will do that). But Odyssey also recommends "conditioning" which means draining to almost zero and "immediately" recharging. Zero volts does not measurably damage the battery - it is the amount of time it spends at zero volts that cause damage. Think of it like breathing: you can completely exhale and immediately inhale with no harm Exhale and remain so for 10 minutes, well, that's quite another story. Oh, and 15V is the max when charging or conditioning, so it is good to monitor the charge voltage. Not wanting to spend $200 on a charger, I modified a Schumacher wheeled car charger for motorcycle charging - manual/timed only. I added a 10AWG SAE connector so that it would carry the load without worry. Here is the "official" procedure for charging and reconditioning. https://www.odysseybattery.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/ODYSSEY_Battery_Reconditioning_Charge_Procedure.pdf

There are tiny T5 bulbs in the indicator lights. Careful pulling the rubber bulb holder out of the plastic gauge pod, as the two materials seem to weld themselves together over time. Might have to use a dental pick and shoot some silicone spray in between the bulb holder and the gauge receptacle.

That is the best guess. But, it stretches my credulity to believe that fuel which is fairly difficult to ignite unless atomized would ignite explosively in response to a low voltage spark. In any event, if a motorcycle was to spontaneously explode from an internal pump, it would have to be some form of Guzzi. I know of no such case.

Give Bike Colours UK a ring. They might very well have it. Their website is under maintenance, so email or telephone may be the best way to contact them. https://www.bikecolours.com/

My point is that if you bin the high cams and all of their drive bits, and just use the same old cam that rests where it always has, and pushrods the same length they've always been, there is less complication, less leaks, less maintenance. You have an 8V motor with the same redline. I am thinking aftermarket retrofit onto V11s. Keep the hard points of intake and exhaust port the same. Different head casting and pistons and you have an 8V with an 8K redline. Just musing here. But - Krauser did 4V heads for the air-head Beemers back in the 80s, and it was more difficult IIRC, as there was a pushrod angularity problem. Not so here.

USA? If so, English not so good. Also, they ship pets! Smells like spam.

Saved by the (la)bell...

Now you are simply trying (and successfully) to make us envious. Beautiful!

Good on the zinc then. I note that Valvoline stresses diesel, but also states that it is appropriate for gas engines. Having just turned 7K miles, and this being probably its 4th change, the motor is plenty clean inside. Well do I remember the wailing against detergent oils in the late 50s and early 60s. Many, believing it to be "the answer" poured it into horribly sludged up straight sixes and V8s, with the resultant clogging of filters, pump screens and even hydraulic lifters. Brother and I tore down some engines in which you could barely find iron for all the sludge.

Dad the pilot was a Valvoline guy. So, am perusing their applicable products. Cummins Diesel likes this oil, but I do not know their valve gear. https://sharena21.springcm.com/Public/Document/18452/5a457451-fe75-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3/b240026d-0abd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1 Zinc is shown as 1270ppm. Sufficient for flats?

Pre-take off report: "Two turning and two burning"?

Somone was thinking right! Cannot understand why Guzzi did not use a single throttle body with port injectors? - What synchronization? What idle balance? TPS and done. And, since we're reinventing the wheel, why not a 4V pushrod head? Although it would sacrifice some, the original port openings could be used. Just different (lighter) pistons to match the pent roof heads. Oh, daydreaming can end so abruptly and unsatisfyingly.

The house would profane that beauty. You need a shrine! Covered, insulated, heated and A/C...