guzziart

I wish MG would have stuck with the steel reflector for the Lemans. Or at least the bezel set up as the retaining device for the reflector.

One of the inexpensive clones I bought had a base that I felt was too thick to install. As a result of the thicker base, the bulb retaining springs exerted more pressure on the two retaining tabs on the reflector. I was concerned that the additional tension would break the plastic reflector tabs so I didn't install the bulb but instead bought another inexpensive bulb having a thin flat stamped steel base like a conventional H4. Anyway, the bulb only lasted a few months, if that and I've ordered another inexpensive LED H4 to "try". And, while I have the fairing off for inexpensive LED bulb research purposes I'm gonna have another go at my seeper/leaker timing sensor.

One of the inexpensive clones I bought had a base that I felt was too thick to install. As a result of the thicker base, the bulb retaining springs exerted more pressure on the two retaining tabs on the reflector. I was concerned that the additional tension would break the plastic reflector tabs so I didn't install the bulb but instead bought another inexpensive bulb having a thin flat stamped steel base like a conventional H4. Anyway, the bulb only lasted a few months, if that and I've ordered another inexpensive LED H4 to "try".

Hi FG, No the amazon bezel won't work, unfortunately but thanks for looking. The LED pilot bulb is a sylvania #194. I got it at Walmart, was about $7 and was on a hook in the automotive bulb display area. Don't forget to read the instructions....if it doesn't work initially, remove it, rotate it 180 degrees and reinstall...polarity sensitive. Art

Today, I'm doing more headlight work. I attempted to replace the original equipment H4 headlight bulb with an LED H4, the inexpensive LED H4 lasted 2-3 months. My 2nd attempt to move to an LED involved buying a 7" round "Jeep" style LED headlight assembly. Unfortunately I now discovered that the 7" Jeep thing will not install. Apparently, the OEM headlight/reflector assembly have the tabs molded into it that allows the assembly to be secured into the HDL bucket, a tab on top that fits into HDL bucket & a tab on the bottom that contains a speed nut for a securement screw, in other words the OEM assembly is NOT secured into the bucket by the headlight bezel/trim ring. The trim ring "snaps" onto the headlight/reflector assembly. So, I have no easy way to install the Jeep thing unless I can somehow find a trim ring that will fit onto the Jeep HDL, has a tab that fits the HDL bucket on top and a tab on the bottom to allow a screw securement. Oh well, live and learn. At this point I'm inclined to try another budget H4 LED, I've become very good at fairing r & r. Plus, I installed an LED pilot bulb so I'm not completely dark in front and it is brighter than I thought it would be. FWIW, I don't ride at night but would like to be more conspicuous during daytime riding. .

Probably the easiest way to look for excessive crankcase pressure is to loosen the dipstick with engine running.....I guess.

Yeah, this thing is really kicking my butt!! I don't know what I'm missing. I regret tossing out the oem sensor without measuring the thickness of the baseplate maybe it was more substantial (thicker) than the aftermarket piece I bought. Or maybe the O.D. of the sensor is slightly larger than the original. I'll certainly give it a try again and more closely scrutinize what I'm doing. I have a baggie of 112's from Mcmaster Carr so, no shortage of orings. I've installed crank seals, input/output shaft seals, head & base gaskets, crankcase gaskets, valve cover gaskets, rear drive seals& gaskets, etc.....no leaks!! This simple oring sensor seal is driving me nuts! Well, that and the right fork leak on my Eldo but I'll whine & complain about that to the Loop Frame Group. Thanks for listening. Art

Hi Vlad, I'm suprised the bike would run with the sensor contacting the timing gear. The new sensor (with new oring) I installed required shimming so that there was sufficient clearance between sensor & gear. I will probably pull it apart again sometime this Fall to figure out what I missed that results in the new sensor leaking. This latest leak is not from the sensor itself as in the past but from the baseplate/oring area. The original leaked from two divots at the very top of the molded portion of the sensor, I epoxyed those and the leak stopped. At short time later, the sensor began leaking from the area where the molded sensor housing meets the cable casing so I epoxyed that area too and the leak stopped for about a year then began leaking again. This Spring I replaced the sensor & oring because I got tired of epoxying and chasing a leak. The new oring I used was from one of our popular Guzzi aftermarket suppliers and I wonder if the oring I received is marginal, maybe I will try an getting a "genuine" Guzzi oring. Docc has uses a #112 oring on his bike but I had no success in seating a 112 on mine without distorting the sensor base plate & shims. From what I recall, the sensor screw holes are not drilled all the way through into the timing housing chamber which leads me to think I have an oring sealing problem. Oh well, I hope your issues are now resolved. Art

Does anyone out there know of catastrophic MG engine failures as a result of using lower than OEM specified octane fuels? I follow OEM recommended specs (sae, api, jaso,etc) for oil but for some reason I have ignorantly departed from that logic for fuel. I hope my quest for thriftiness doesn't bite me.

Well, after reading some of your responses maybe I should reconsider running a couple tanks of "premium" to confirm (in my mind) that there is definitely a difference in performance....short of putting bike on dyno. My v11 doesn't have lambda sensors so there's no way the ecu would adjust for out of range combustion, detonation, preignition, etc. Kevin_T said Just because you can't detonation doesn't it's not there. Might take microscope to bits of aluminum on your spark plug. Yeah, maybe I'll pull the plugs & shove the borescope in there & take a look. I have a clue what microscopic bits look like based on my experience with my '72 eldo flaking cylinders. The fine metal shavings were on the plugs & in pooled oil on the top of the heads under the valve covers....it was very obvious, no fancy tools needed to detect that issue.

I don't notice any difference in running 87 up to 93 so I opt for the less expensive 87 stuff. However, in the last year or so "Circle K" brand offers 90 octane non-ethynol, I notice a huge difference in starting/running performance with the non-eth stuff...same with my mower, string trimmer, chain saw, atv, generator, etc., I like it. Prior to last year, non-eth was not readily availabile here in Northeast, Ohio, the fuel was all up to 10% ethynol. Art

FWIW..... https://www.mcmaster.com/90364A101

Hi Phil, Your steel axle appears like the wheel bearing had spun on it....Is that normal? My rear axle looks like that, I can feel a slight steps/ridges on mine. I attribute the wear to the misplacement of the large washer that normally goes between the rear drive and swing arm being improperly placed between the wheel external drive splines & rear drive internal drive splines. Yep, you read that right. I'm just glad I caught it before it ruined the any splines since the washer only allowed partial spline engagement. Anyway, back to the "stepped" axle....to me, it obviously looks worn due to a bearing spin. I'd like to replace the axle if I come across a good used one but haven't been successful at that yet. Maybe i should get off my wallet and buy new, if available??!! Or if you're satisfied with your engineering and make a run of axles please place me on your list of potential buyers. Thoughts? Oh, my wheel bearings feel ok and I couldn't detect any unusual wear with the bearing i.d. Art PS - Nice job on the Ti axle!

My first brand X LED bulb had a base that was too thick and I was concerned that the aditional thickness would over stress the bulb retaining spring and subsequently break the plastic tab from the plaestic headlamp bucket. Plus, the plug end of the bulb was 8mm - 10mm too long and created an interference problem (contacted connector in the back of the headlight bucket). The 2nd brand X LED bulb fit well, it has thin metal base like a regular H4 bulb and doesn't stress the retaining spring clip and the base portion of the bulb is dimensionally the same length as a regular H4 too. However, longevity of the brand X is very poor imo...a few months. At this point I'd really like to try a 7" LED assembly but not sure if the retaining ring would work to hold it in place. So, I've got that to look into and try to seal the timing sensor oil leak (again, still).

FWIW.... https://www.thisoldtractor.com/for_sale_wiring_harness_ordering.html Art PS - If a problem exists with ign., clutch, start button switches,wiring, etc., adding a high current relay will not solve an intermittent cranking issue. I think if I had an intermittent cranking issue I'd begin looking for weak areas ....switches! These bikes are 20+ yeas old, things go bad from sitting or age & use.

Hi All, Ok, another stupid question! What was the Gearbox Recall? I'll just add that to the V11 to do or check list. Thanks, Art

Hey PJPR01, So, did you go any further with your headlamp situation? My super cheap, brand X, led bulb failed after a couple months, I presently have no operable headlamp but the (sylvania) led pilot works great. Anyway, I was wondering if one of those 7" round led lamp assemblies will fit the lemans without having to do mods to the bucket or retaining bezel. Thanks, Art

I've got enough headaches & things to read, watch & do. I'll stick to whatever the least expensive oil I can find that meets the vehicle manufacturers spec. I've been riding for over 50 years and several hundred thousand miles, in that time, like many of you and have never had oil related engine problems. I guess I've been lucky...did I just put the maloik on myself??!! Art

Update: Timing sensor still leaks. New sensor, new oem style oring & Permatex Motoseal gasket maker (looks like hondabond/yamabond stuff) and leaking at lower screw. Before with the old sensor my leaks were coming from the top of the old sensor moulded housing & cable casing......now with new parts, it leaks at the lower screw. Frustrating. Any sealing ideas or other things to look at in that area? Cyl. base gasket, presure sensor, oil feed lines & timing cover are all dry. Art

Hi Rolf, A 7" round headlight will fit the Sport?? Any idea if I could fit one of these into a '03 Lemans? I realize that I'd no longer have a pilot light. Without going out to the garage, pulling the fairing & headlamp assembly, I don't recall if the trim ring that holds the headlight into the bucket separates from the headlamp. If so, I'd like to try a one of those 7" sealed assemblies. Or has anyone else here tried one of these sealed LEDs in their Sport or Lemans? I put one in my '72 Eldo and it works great as of last night....went to a local cruise-in and got caught riding home at sunset. Thanks, Art 8/11/23 update: I bought one of those 7" round LED headlights for my Eldo several months ago and it works fine. So, I recently bought one for the Lemans. However, the bezel & bucket on my Lemans will NOT accomodate a 7' round. The oem reflector assembly hooks into the bucket top, a sheet metal screw & tin nut retain it. The bezel clips onto the reflector. This is contrary to my thought that the bezel is utlized to retain the reflector in the bucket....like on most cars & bikes. Oh well.