audiomick

That would be this, I gather Thanks, that gives me ideas.

I've got feeler gauges. I've been informed via PM that one can use those to measure the gap when the timing chest cover is off. That is probably what I'll do. I've got a gasket for that on the shelf.

Thanks Phil. I've had a look in the workshop manual in the meantime. The gap should be, I quote presumably in millimetre. I don't actually know for sure that my sensor is bad. I bought a new one on spec, because several reliable sources have informed me that the sensor shits itself as a matter of course after a while. The visual indicator is allegedly that the sensor swells in the middle. I'm currently considering all possibilties as to why mine has the coughing and spluttering at constant throttle thing in rather exreme form. "About 2,800 r.p.m." seems to be the common thing. Mine does it, when warm, anywhere between 2,000 and just over 3,000 r.p.m. . I'd really like to know why, and get it sorted.

Having bought a new timing sensor, and read the comment from @guzzler that the clearance from the timing sensor to whatever it looks at is critical, I had a look at the seals that are in there. There is an o-ring and a gasket, apparently. Going by the diagrammes here, there are 7 different gaskets in various thicknesses available. Part no. 17. https://wendelmotorraeder.de/elektrik-zuendung-v11-02-le-mansskura-ex-30_3006_300602_30060203_3006020310_300602031032.html I take it that the various gaskets thicknesses have to do with the clearance. Is that the case, how does one measure the clearance, and what is the prescribed clearance? (No, I haven't looked in the workshop manual for a value yet. Maybe someone can save me the trouble... )

Philosiphising? No, spelling error. Philosophising is correct. https://www.collinsdictionary.com/dictionary/english/philosophizing whereby this part of the defintion is particularly relevant. NB: the spelling mistake was the "i" instead of an "o". The "z" doesn't count. That is just US American imprecision.

That is easy to try out. I wouldn't get caught up in philosiphising there. Just suck it and see.

I was provided with these links: https://www.autoteile-markt.de/shop/artikel/impulsgeber-kurbelwelle-facet-9.0032-d1a862c35a20ef761692aff82f023960?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs5fjzLGh_AIVh-93Ch3pew71EAQYASABEgIqrPD_BwE https://www.pkwteile.de/facet/2181912 https://www.autodoc.de/facet/2181912 I ordered the one from the first link because it was the cheapest. I can't say anything at all about the quality or compatibility. Mine hasn't arrived yet, so I am working on hearsay at this point. However, I trust implicitely the person who sent me the links. He used to work in a Guzzi workshop, was perhaps the owner, and knows an awful lot about the 1100 Sport/ Sport 1100/ Daytona/ V11 period of the Guzzi history. EDIT: to put the price in perspective, this is the original Guzzi part: https://wendelmotorraeder.de/phasen-und-umdrehungsfuhler_gu01721600-p-1024014.html?ref=expl ANUVVEREDIT: the links are for suppliers in Germany, which is good for me because that is where I live. Rather than ordering from Germany, I would suggest searching for a supplier for the sensor FACET 9.0032 in your country. I gather it was used in a number of vehicles, and should be able to be found.

That is kind of self-contradicting. The map is a given, assuming the manufacturer is not completely stupid. If the TPS is correct, the ECU is getting the correct data that it needs to implement the (theoretically correct) map correctly, and everything should be sweet. If one assumes that the map is good, which one must to an extent, then irregularities point to something not working the way it should (sensors, bad fuel, leaky rubbers, whatever). As pointed out further up, not only by me, the first thing is to make absolutely sure that all the basic stuff is definitely ok. If that is not done, its a wild goose chase.

yes, I'm in the same boat. My 2002 Le Mans spits and coughs between 2 and 3 thousand rpm at constant throttle when it is warm. I did go through the "decent tune up", but in a hurry. I think I need to go at it again in a relaxed and concentrated manner. Also, I have ordered a new sensor for the motor position. Don't know what it is called in English. The German name is "phasen sensor". I've heard that they give up after a while, and someone provided me with a source for an affordable price, so I will swap it out and see what it brings.

As far as I know, yes, mostly. The pinging might perhaps also have to do with inferior quality fuel. On top of "all the sensors and computer are working correctly" there is making sure that there are no air leaks between the throttle bodies and the cylinder. That could make a good map run lean. The big question is, however, have you done everything in the "decent tune up"? If you haven't made absolutely sure that all the basic stuff is right, you are shooting at a moving target trying to find out what is not right. Edit: bugger, docc was faster. How does he do that?

I'd be taking that with a very large grain of salt, unless there is impeccable documentation of the history of the bike. That sort of mileage on a bike that old is just not plausible. Still, it looks well looked after, and 112k miles would also be ok for a bike of that age.

Like this?

You don't say... I've actually lost about 8 Kilos over the last couple of years. That has to do with working in a building where one walks a lot to get from here to there, and not eating as much, after a year or so of practically no work due to CoVid during which I put on a bit. Smoking is probably also a factor, but I can't recommend that as a tactic for losing weight. It's a really bad idea.

I'm reminded of something I read in a bicycle magazine once regarding saving weight on a racing bike: the cheapest place to save weight is on the rider. Maybe the concept lets itself be applied to handling on a motorcycle as well.

What are they?

For those not familiar with Australian vernacular, this might help: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sycophancy I have the strong impression that Phil is not that impressed with the man in question...

Sorry, somebody had to post it. Have fun.

Thats funny, the view out of your visor looks almost exactly like the view over the bonnet of a Porsche.

Sad that he's gone, but over 90 years old is a good innings. I'm grateful for what he gave the world.

The consoling thought is that you discovered that before you mounted the things, and corrected the fault. If it had shown up after mounting them, you would have had to take it all apart again to do what you did before mounting them in the first place. But I would expect the part to be at least properly painted, preferebly powder coated, by the manufacturer.

Don't confuse spring stiffness with pre-load. They are two different things. Raising the ride height at the rear, by whatever means, will quicken the steering, and bias the weight balance to the front a bit. Stiffening the spring will perhaps raise the ride height a bit, but that is not what stiffer springs are about. A stiffer spring will manage a heavier rider weight better. That is the point. If the stiffer spring results in higher ride height, then it is too stiff, or there is too much preload. Adding pre-load to the setup doesn't stiffen up the spring. It only raises the ride height. If you need a lot of pre-load to get to the optimum ride height, you probably need a stiffer spring. If the spring is not stiff enough, and the ride height is being "corrected" by more pre-load, you are losing suspension travel. If I have this correctly in my head... Spring too soft and lots of pre-load to correct the ride height will tend to bottom out. Spring too hard will tend to top out. It's not that complicated actually, but one needs, perhaps, to sit down with a bottle of Shiraz and think it through several times to get one's head around it.

can't think why, but I am reminded of this...

I was fortunate, in the course of my work, to hear him from about 6 feet away. He was already over 70 at the time, and still amazing. The thing that really got me was the control of the voice. Pianissimo, and solid as a rock. Anyone can do loud, but doing really quiet under complete control is the sign of a master. That applies to singing, and every musical instrument I know.

It's no good if you can't ride it. Jus' sayin'...