fotoguzzi

Automoto?

Ducati?

that rally was a lot of fun! but was it ever windy.. I did 95-100 w/a couple Beemers all the way home down the slab.

so, should I keep my plastic holder and get a PC3? is that what it boils down to? (liquid pun intended)

John A, are you following this thread? Do you want to try Ratchets experiment on my Lemans?

I concur, bad ground.. have you possibly swapped one of the wires around so the ground is hooked to one of the positive leads?

as a side note, the clutch has a switch to and must be pulled in to start the bike, right?

welcome, it's about time you got on board- we've been waiting.. show pic soon!

ZZZZing!!

and the width of Lemans forks (triple clamp spacing) is narrower than other Guzzi's (some at least) so it can be swapped to say an G5 fork but won't be actuallu correct but it would work.

there is no such thing as a 1975 Lemans 1000.... if it's a '75 it would be an 850cc unless someone put a 949cc top end or whole motor in it. lets see some pics!

the pic should be rotated, the tube points horizontal not up. Left side of foto is the top of tank. the tube goes straight in about an inch I think. it actually sprays in and hits the neck of the filler tube that goes a little ways into the tank.If you do this have your welder fill the tank with argon so it won't blow up.

in a heartbeat! I don't care if I ever have carbs again.. (I still have another old vert w/79k if I want a day to wear out my right wrist.) here's the tank mod.

You gogo guzzi Girl! is it red or Champagne?

here's some pic to encourage you going the EFI route. I have the F pump under the TB's and the filter above, since then I moved it to a fab'd bracket behind the right side cover. I made a brace to mount the regulator above the TB's the whole EV fuse panel fit under right side cover, you'd have extra room w/the V11 fuses there.

If you got the electricals with the V11 motor it won't be that hard to swap in the whole works.. I would go that way.. unless you didn't get the CPU and others related components. the tuning issues do not seem to be endless to me and it's pretty easy to sync and set the TPS etc. I'm happy to not be using carbs anymore.

oh yea, you need a spigot in the tank for return fuel, I had a nipple welded on near the top front of the tank. if you use one of the petcock spigots you'll need some kind of valve to keep gas from flowing backwards when you shut off.

that bike looks pretty nice to be pulling the motor out for what 10 more HP? I get it tho, it's worth it for the light throttle alone. I did a similar swap. I put a EV motor w/systems into the older Tonti frame. It fit fine but the tank will come very close to the rocker cover. I mounted the coils to the frame tube under the tank and put the fuel filter.reg.pump and some electronics in the battery space. because of the big CPU of the EV I didn't have room for the battery so it went under the tranny in place of the crossover. I am changing this arrangement this winter...you will probably have to use pod filters like I did, I was able to retain the intake tubes between the filters and manifold but I'm going to shorten them now..to complicate things further I grafted Convert running gear on.. It's a real hoot and has just the right amount of pep that the convert needed. I'm now looking for a V11 sport motor and electrics for my next project, anyone?

NICE PICS! I have not had one apart but most of the guzzi handebars have a hole in them and a locator pin on the switch housing, thus you don't want to twist the thing to pull off. best to separate the halves of the switch. the hardware isn't to robust in the housing so be delicate. in pic two see the rubber covers over the cables ? pull them back and loosen the cable there and you can get slack enough to get the cable end out of the holder. you have arrows to all the screws that you do need to remove to split each unit in half and pull away from the bar. try it and check back, don't forget- it's plastic not steel your working with.

What he said!

love it!

Welcome, you won't be disappointed!

I had that thought too.

could you just put a variable resistor in line and w/an Ohm meter follow readings to find out what the optimum reading "should" be.? Then correct the the sensor with a small resistance? I'm not afraid to ask dumb questions!