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It is interesting to note that the later "CARC" set-up indexes the TPS with the throttle bodies seated on the factory pre-set idle stop (The Sacred Screw) in "similar fashion" to @Doansci's approach. Using the V11 "completely closed" index is curious since, once the linkage is hooked up and the idle set, the ECU never sees any values below the idle setting. It is simply the established method to index the map to the physical throttle opening through the rest of the range to WOT. Can the same indexing be achieved using the throttle angle at idle and the TPS at "some" mV? Sure, but it is going to be hit or miss. Seems @Doansci got a hit! (YMMV) P.S. - I am due a fresh Decent Tune-up and will pay attention to where my throttle degrees opening and mV end up at idle . . .

I think we should be sourcing a "compatible part" instead of the Gu$$i part. I feel certain someone posted this switch with a male spade connector (instead of the "T-disc"). Yet, I cannot find it . . .

Started my "shakedown/prep" for the XXI South'n SpineRaid, about two months out (metric: 8,6 weeks ). Sixty mile/97 km warm-up ride (aka: get beer). Onto the lift and drop motoroil and gearbox oil. No metal fuzz on the engine drain plug (6300 miles/ 10.000 km); the "usual" fuzz on the gearbox plug (15,000 miles/24.000 km). Out with the oil filter through the access cover, remove the label from the new WIX filter and see that the old filter gasket came out with the old filter. Fresh RedlIne 20W-50 after being certain the filter access cover screwed back on perfectly. Took time to troubleshoot the (lately) dodgy Neutral Switch. Fitted a new crush washer (to space the switch correctly on the shift plate) and adjusted the external shift mechanism connecting rod so the lever clears the Frame Side Plate/"stiletto" on the downstroke. On to service all major electrical grounds and battery terminals with CRC Electronics Cleaner® and Caig DeOxit®. Yeah, that's a French medical graduated cylinder. Yeah, I use that to add 850.0 ml to the gearbox. Yeah, I know that's bogus. I even heated the gear oil to 120ºF/ 49ºC for a clean pour. Next: Decent Tune-up . . .

I couldn't measure how little the plunger moves to close the switch, but is has to be less than 0.004" (maybe as little as 0.002"). "A skosh " . . . So, my circuit tested good (light on when wire-end connector grounded, off when open), and the switch tested good (considering the wee skosh of movement to actuate). So, I am happy, yet surprised, to report a new crush washer was the solution. For now. Some things don't stay fixed. I also found my shift lever striking the lower hook of the Frame Side Plate/ "Stiletto " on the downstroke. Lengthened the connector rod one full turn of the rear rose/Heim joint. As noted, "Some things don't stay fixed. "

As in directly through a fuse or circuit breaker? Admittedly, the factory charging wire from the regulator to the battery is ridiculously small . . .

Pickers Tycos edit: Pretty sure Seimens Siemens were original across the V11 range, most certainly on the early Sports 1999-2001.

@Doansci, considering your interesting inquiry, it occurred to me the regulator voltage reference relies on the nefarious Relay #2. What sort of relays are in the relay stack now? You speak Caig DeOxit? Clean, treat and tighten the terminal stacks on the battery....

My recollection is that this applies to the small gauge factory regulator ground back through the loom to the battery. Yet, there is wisdom in making a short, robust ground from the regulator case to the engine/timing chest as long as the main battery ground to the back of the gearbox is reliably serviced. Comments, @Kiwi_Roy ? edit: (Inadequate) factory regulator ground wire after failed main battery ground to rear of the gearbox:

https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/edl450-voltrect.htm

Our European brothers can help me on this, but my understanding is that there are regulations in (some?) European cities that the high wattage headlight is turned off and this 4 watt "city light" remains illuminated. V11 with "European switchgear" has this option (Hi/Lo + Off). I recall when I lived in Germany, my mother commented that it was illegal to blow a car horn outside of an emergency. Here in The States it's open season on horn honking!

That's a great circuit for a voltmeter (called "dipped lights" in the wiring diagram, it is the low watt "city light" in the headlamp assembly, the tail light, and the instrument illumination). This is powered by the ignition switch through Fuse #6 (no relay). Probably good to check your voltage drop from the battery to where the meter taps in and add that back to the reading. I reckon it should be less than 1.0 volt, but could easily be 0.5v . . . So great to have @Kiwi_Roy posting (his great ideas and contributions) again. Welcome back, sir!

I realize, now, when I referred to the contact I was thinking of the external connection for the wire rather than inside where the real action is. Thanks for all the replies, so far. I'm still hoping someone recognizes this switch from their Fiat or Lancia . . .

What was your outcome, @leroysch?

Best regards from the U.S.A. , my friends!

Haha - I wondered about the US <--> AUS dollar conversion of late. Thanks for the offer, my man! In addition to sourcing, or reconditioning, my switch, I thought we better hunt down a "compatible part" for this switch. I thought someone had an alternative, but the connection was a male spade, instead of that "T" disc . . .

Pretty sure the sticky part is not the contact, but the internal "plunger" part.

My switch has gotten sticky. Sometimes stuck off, sometimes on. I've seen these self correct with a gearoil change (for which I am due). That could be wishful thinking, so . . . on the hunt . . .

Access to the interwebs with no adult supervision. Fixed it. Thanks for the, er, adult supervision . . .

Even before taxes and shipping, $110US gives me pause . . . https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=871

Hey! Don't be talkin' 'bout my wank like that!

More "patina" talk . . . > Auto Anthropology < . . . https://www.hagerty.com/media/opinion/auto-anthro-the-power-of-patina/?hashed_email=b4b94022c1bd45a1fa61becf3ab2e64665eaea4bd3297978c54e145dd672e019&dtm_em=b4b94022c1bd45a1fa61becf3ab2e64665eaea4bd3297978c54e145dd672e019 Historian and archaeologist Shannon Lee Dawdy quite literally wrote the book on the topic, researching Patina: A Profane Archaeology in New Orleans in the years immediately before and after Hurricane Katrina. She writes: “Two desires coexist: for the youthful, replaceable commodity and for the old, well-worn object … most new commodities lose resale value as soon as they are purchases, but eventually… an object that begins as a generic and replaceable commodity transforms into an idiosyncratic possession with little shared worth, and later into a collectively valued treasure.” And this, Dawdy, again, has the answer. She explains, “[we] value things for the way they transcend their own commodification.”

For those of us who cannot see fb content, would someone kindly share some details (mileage, price, whatever) . . .

No issues with drive spline wear at these miles. And I engine brake and rip out of the curves like a jackrabbit on hot lava. Pretty sure @MartyNZ did the cush rubber drilling. I would trust his opinion of the outcome. Regarding maintenance and lubrication, I am a big fan of Klüber Staburags at every tire change . . .

Hoping to see some updates from our dear friend, @p6x . . .

Odyssey's current list a approved chargers: https://www.odysseybattery.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/odyssey-approved-12V-chargers.pdf