docc

Next up: Spine Raids where anyone can gather their V11 and compare notes, share secrets, and generally hob-nob/ cohort/ and otherwise hang out: Surfin' Spine Raid / Southern California ? (Up-East) Spine Raid / Pennsylvania ? Wervelkolom Raid Nederland ? think tinker ride share

Didn't the Norge have that trouble, too? And aren't they (mechanically and electronically) the same motorcycle?

The Chinese GEI relays should probably not have the 30 amp rating that they somehow have: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12326&p=133211 Not that they're "bad" just that they're not the "best." Even the best get hot, though. They're hard at work!

One of the simplest, most important things you should be certain of is your CO Fuel Trim. If it is in the negative double digits, nothing else you do will clear up the running issues. That, and being absolutely sure that the right throttle plate is completely closed when baselining the TPS. These are detailed in the Decent Tune Up thread, but bear emphasis. Let us know what you find!

boy, was that a mistake. Heh - welcome back, buddy!

Diagnostic Cables: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19612

I've pinned a thread just to reference and source the three correct diagnostic cables: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19612&p=213372 And a brief procedure for a "Decent Tune Up" to get your V11 to a baseline before reprogramming: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19610

Note that the OBD2 to USB MUST be properly chipped FTDI 232RL. Thanks to everyone for posting reliable links in this thread to obtain correct cables in your part of the world. This thread is for the cables only. Use of the cables is posted elsewhere, including: Basic guzzidiag tutorial for V11 Decent Tune Up

There are three necessary cables to set the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) baseline and interface with the ECU: 1)TPS Breakout Harness: http://www.casperselectronics.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=853&search=109172 And the thread posted by danl that details the development: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18052 [Cable shown is my breakout harness modified with connectors I can clip my voltmeter to. N/Vi (purple with black stripe)is positive, Vi (purple) is negative. The third wire (yellow) gets tucked away. Also shown are my old pins to back probe the ECU connector. ] 2) Adapter cable: Do a web search for "3-pin to ODB II Fiat/ Lancia" for current availability in your location: 3) OBD II to USB with correct FTDI 232RL chip: (Do a web search for current sources): ! >> Lonelec (UK) has been the most reliable, long running source for both cables 2 and 3 << ! New, improved version (2022) with adapter to accommodate various cabling/ devices: https://www.lonelec.com/product/guzzidiag-3pin-interface-cable-kit/

Excellent! Thank you! I'll be trying to get that dedicated Diagnostic Cable thread posted and pinned soon so we can, collectively, post reliable cabling sources worldwide.

Perhaps there is some good information in my three year thread referencing my Sport's Rear Drive leak. I will say that I, my-own-self, scratched the inner seal surface prying out the large seal which didn't help matters any. I was eventually saved from the Leaky Abyss by Andy York, The Seal Whisperer. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15908&p=186069

Pete Roper has reminded us that there are several sources of oil leaks at the rear of the engine. Worth reading his comments (as always): http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3751&p=35372

Haha, right? The there is a curious mix of factors that have created the situation that there are no pictures of SSR One. That was the first year of my transition to digital photography and lost two years of pictures in a classic PC crash. Bill has a shoebox of Kodak prints somewhere in his analog archive he is promising to ferret out. Then there is the whole plausible deniability thing . . .

There are a whole series of things that will likely help the pop/stumble: Start with a complete "Decent Tune Up" Make sure all of your electrical connections and grounds are both clean and tight. Inspect the spark plug leads as they leave the coils. What type of Engine Temperature Sensor holder is fitted? On the weave, it's true the early Sports are more prone, but the '02-'04 rake is not different - it is the frame that is longer and the subframes are braced. Start here by "setting your sags." (A process of making sure your springs are right for your weight and the preloads are correct.) This cures so many suspension ills. Very likely your rear is too soft and/or sagging too much. You can try to increase preload and, perhaps, rear tire pressure. Many have also dropped the front triple clamps on the forks a bit (mine are down ~5mm).

Revised Post #1, but cannot find the Caspers breakout harness now. Anyone?

nuevototem, thanks for the excellent questions! These will help make this thread more usable for all of us. 1) Yes, leave the right side idle stop screw defeated, backed all the way out. It is the simplest to set the idle from the left side. The left idle stop screw will maintain both throttle bodies through the linkage rod. Some have reported such wear that turning the Right Idle Stop Screw in to index the right throttle body at idle gives them more stable idle. Do this as necessary. "Fine tuning?" 2) Short answer? The V11 may "breathe better" at idle. The V11 Workshop Manual does state 1/2 turn. "Micha's Method" also uses one full turn, as well as the 1100 Sporti? I've tried using the 1/2 turn repeatedly over my twenty-or-so tunes (plus other V11 I've tuned), and have found the idle more stable at one full turn, especially in high ambient temperatures. It may be helpful to use the "air screws" to balance the Throttle Bodies at idle, once the Balance Knob is used to balance the Throttle Bodies at *some* rpm. If the Air Screws are more than 1/4 turn different to balance at idle, there is some other problem. (More fine tuning). 3) The right side Throttle Body influences the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) directly. Its baseline position establishes the ECU's index to the "map." Best results *may be* obtained using the right side to index the TPS (to the ECU) while the left side is used to set the synchronization and the desired idle speed. Notice that the entire linkage is tensioned from the left by the throttle cable. 4) I referenced danl's thread on his influence developing the TPS Breakout Harness with Casper's. What a fantastic contribution! Thanks for reporting the broken links. I'll have to work those out. I am intending to pin a dedicated Technical Topics thread on the Diagnostic Cables. There are three necessary diagnostic cables and we must be able to source them worldwide over a span of time. (EDIT: I replaced the Caspers link in Post #1 to go directly to the product. Thanks, nuevototem for the link!) Thank you, again! I would like to use this time and everyone's contributions to clarify a simple, basic tune-up procedure, then pin it. Then, there will *always* be "Fine Tuning"

Still not a single pic of the inaugural 2004 SSR?

Would that they would just give the world a fresh military/fleet service motorcycle and take on Giulio Carcano's 3-cylinder diesel idea. I know it's not racing, but seems so much more plausible.

Wow, Scott, that is gorgeous. I love those falls. I think, now, the Spine Raid is a thing of its own, with or without me: South'n Spine Raid The weekend after Labor Day/ Tellico Plains, Tennessee ("Show Up, Plan Your Own Route")

Understood regarding silicone versus silicon, yet if a high intensity electrical arc is passed through silicone grease, can the elemental silicon be oxidized into the glass-like compound silicon dioxide? I dunno, but there are sources that say "uh-oh" especially in proximity to relays and switches. Sounds like Vaseline is safe. For all sorts of fun and interesting applications . . .

Links and pics added.