docc

How did you possibly get that photo? Colonoscopy?

I used the MG final drive oil exclusively before going down the slippery slope of RedLine Shockproof (heheh- "slippery slope" - I cracks me up . . . I did learn somewhere along the way that Motul was the OEM supplier for the MG moly gearoil. I believe it is one and the same.

Is there some reason the mysterious .bin files cannot be stored in this website's "FileShare" for simple access?

I would like to hear that this method has been successful on the short, early RedFrames or the Rosso Mandello, all of which may double your vocabulary trying for the front nipple.

Ah! I misheard that. Nice video. So cool that talented people all over the world keep coming to the Guzzi, always making it even more special!

200 hp, he says? No matter, a big Guzzi sounds so great downshifting through the gears!

Gonna hafta add this important tip to the "Tank Off Maintenance Checklist!"

Play off Kiwi_Roy's post and go with his expert recommendations. I suggested the 14.2 based on the Hawker Odyssey specifications for the PC545 AGM that needs re-charged from below 90% (12.65v). Specs on your Yuasa may vary.

A difference here in the "tail section" (which definitely changed on the later bikes), and the "seat cowl/ pillion cover?" The early "tail sections" are definitely PA6 (polyamide, a kind of "Nylon", by Acerbis - like the tank). The early pillion covers are ABS (also by Acerbis) - did they change? Are the later tail sections actually ABS or still PA6?

guaca-scura-molé!

The slave cylinder is clearly visible, along with the line connection, on the very back of the gearbox in front of the swingarm

Looks promising. Is the unit backlighted? Looks like a "button" and three indicator lights (what do they do?) BTW, Scud - your voltages are on the marginal side. Look at conditioning your AGM (12.5v is 75%) and make efforts to get your charging voltage above 13.8, ideally 14.2.

I've long thought 5wt (sewing machine oil? ) quite light for our crusty donks. I used some for a while but worried that it found its way out through tight little places that 20 wt would not have. I suppose if your trying to turn the beast over near freezing, your starter motor will thank you for the thin oil.

You should add a little avo decal to the fairing like the flying aces of old. Bad-ass veggie-busting mean-machine!

Be aware that "exceeding SG" can be meant to specify that the oil meets the subsequent SH, SL, or SN specifications. In that case, the SAE label will show the newest rating. Realize that doesn't mean it has more zinc and phosphorus (ZDDP) anti-wear agents, but meets the newer specs which actually have lower ZDDP for precisely the reason Zooter says: saving catalytic converters/ reducing emissions. As a pertinent aside, know that keeping your air filter in good fettle is critical to support your finely selected, and carefully measured, motor oil. That the air filter is rather fussy to access on a V11 makes it more likely that it could be neglected, stressing the oil with more particulate matter. More frequent changes (especially in dusty environs) will help, but don't neglect your air filter!

The stuff I'm looking at is fully synthetic, non friction modified, recommended for high performance petrol gas and light diesel, 15w/60. Sounds perfect. I forget the Zn/P ppm for SG - seems like it was well over 2000, but I forget.

Is that their "V-Twin" oil? I've used that quite a lot and still have my big ends. I presume they formulated that for big displacement, air-cooled, flat tappet, push-rod motors. I don't think it's SG rated, but again, not likely to find that now.

Yeah - the reverse megaphones. No mirrors whatsoever . . .

I'd have had to turn you down, in either case. The RedFrame-matched jacket is not so bad to squeeze into now, but those pants . . . I have a wonderful Vanson "drilled" jacket, but it still doesn't flow air and carry armor like the Olympia.

To my limited knowledge, no diesel oils will be friction modified. I believe any 15W-40 or thicker oil will not be friction modified. At least in the States, friction modified oils come with a "star" "Energy Conserving" label. Honestly, I learned to avoid friction modified oil listening to Pete Roper, and I trust his advice explicitly; same goes for what gstallons says. My post on temperature range simply reflects the lightest oil for the early motor is 10W-30 and the chart does not recommend it above 33˚C ambient (not thick enough for me, here). Also, the Tenni, Scura, and Rosso Mandello are the models with the single plate clutch; no piston sprayers until the 2003 model year (along with tight, black engine paint and the tank with internal filter/pump).

I bet they're in great condition, colours would probably go very nicely with a Tenni... Would that much trimmer lad be about 5'10", a lean 170lb? You looking for a date or making a bid on my leathers?

Seems 5W-40 was spec'd for the later V11 (2003-) with oil sprayers under the pistons. No mention of anything less than 10w-30 in the early spec's. Looks like it would be good to 33˚C/91˚F; and 20w-40 or 50 from freezing up. And "SG" - good luck finding that amount of ZDDP. Above all- avoid "friction modifiers" or "energy conserving" oils for passenger cars. Your sweet little virgin cylinder walls will thank you!

I had some Z Leathers made to match the Sport some years back (enough that they appear to have been cut for much trimmer lad Terrific stuff, on par with Vanson, but issues of "fit" and ventilation put me onto the Olympia Stealth for the summer temps here. Fantastic!

That, alone, would make it worth pulling the airbox . . .

Ogio and Arai are top shelf. More recently I began using a "modular" Shoei with my long-time Aerostich 1 piece Roadcrafter in grey/black. Pretty certain you can get them all in black . . .