docc

There is enough of the broken wires to solder them back on? If so then repair and cover the repair with epoxy to stop another break (which is common there).

I'm likely not the expert on that, but we'll get some help here, momentarily. For certain, check that the pinch bolts both fore and aft are not loose allowing slop at the collars which should pinch down tight to the output/input shafts. If the drive shaft has ever been taken off, it's a bugger to get the collar lined up perfectly that the pinch bolts don't crossthread. With the wheel off, it's easy to remove the entire rear drive by separating the shaft. ( mind the alignment mark or make one!) The U-joints should have no play in any direction and rotate in both directions without any grinding or popping. Good luck getting grease into both the back and front. Don't put more than a film of grease on the splines or it won't want to go back together (forms a pneumatic trap).

I suppose that's a ten year list. If you just fettle a little something extra every time the tank's off (and each time the wheels are off), they just keep getting better and better! It at least gives you a punch-list of things to put your eyes on, or your fingers on, while it's there easy to see.

Makes ya wanna play some blues there with her all happy in the garage!

Oh, man - you darkened fasteners under the seat and on the underside of the rear fender? What you have is much, much worse than previously thought . . .

Not likely anything significant (like the actual map) was changed with the pods. Doing a complete "tune-up" is your best medicine. You will have to locate the air temperature sensor to reattach to the airbox. Most likely, it is just zip tied to the frame somewhere, although it might have been put in a canister of some type. While you're at it, have a go at some of this: Tank Off Maintenance Checklist

I think it would be good to post some photos of the broken shock eyes. I would like to link them to the Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist. Right now, it only includes this phrase: >Inspect the shock eye connection to the swingarm. The white spring/blue collar Sachs-Boge are prone to crack.

I'm (reasonably) sure it's not damaged. But once it's up to full charge, watch it to drop back to ~85% (12.65v) and immediately discharge, then charge it. Repeat until it holds. My PC545 is 10 days out and holding 12.78v.

These big donks pump a lot of oil into vapor, more in the rain and more with mineral oil. Synth oils have minimal evaporation.

Ha - yeah, I thought my ECU is right-side-up and everyone else's is inverted! Czakky: 12.08 v is an AGM at 43%. Use Odyssey's guidelines for time and specified voltages to bring the battery up to full charge. Then, monitor as the voltage drops back to ~85% (12.65 v) and recharge. Repeat until it holds. Odyssey has special advice for V-twin motorcycle applications (low amp charging/single phase stator) that is likely for the H-D, but may also apply to us. This includes leaving the lights on, after the motor is off, for 30 seconds before beginning the charging and using a "float charger" to compensate for parasitic loads while in storage. They also warn against exceeding 15 volts charging.

+1 on GuzziMoto. Often the seat will press down on the battery itself. Some have reattached the battery basket under the subframe for more clearance.

Link doesn't bring up the fuel door?

"binary azeotrope." I have got to find a way to work that into a conversion in the next 24 hours.

I absolutely love the Google Translate pronunciation by the out-of-breath Swedish woman. Is she putting us on or do suspension companies really make Swedish women so out-of-breath?

These are an extraordinary addition to the V11. They do an amazing job of keeping the shock, shock eyes, and electrics clean and secure. Thank, again, Edge for the extra effort! (I hope someone picks these up!!)

I think I have an old BLACK Bitubo steering damper here if you want to swap for that BRIGHT SILVER thing hanging under your triples . . .

That is gorgeous and compelling. Also colorful and hauntingly dark at the same time.

Recently, I put my fourth battery in the Sport at 'almost' 93,000 miles/ 150.000 km. In all fairness, I would probably be on my second, but I use the bikes' to step down batteries into my lawn and garden tractors as they require. Tractor battery plays up? Bike gets a new juicer. The battery that just played up in "swampee" the Cub Cadet was nine years old and came out of the Sport 4 1/2 years ago. The "new" PC545 came directly from Odyssey with a May 2014 manufacturing date (seven months old) and came at 75% charge (~12.5 vDC). Odyssey recommends charging when voltage is below ~85% (12.65v). My selection of 10amp, 2 amp, and 1.5 amp chargers are not ideally matched to the AGM requirements. The "correct" charger appears to cost about $150US + taxes and shipping. I'll have to get by with what I have, for now. First, I brought the charge up using 10 amps to no more than 15v (less than a minute) and followed with a 2 amp charge for 4 hours . Two days later, the battery had fallen to ~85% (12.65v). Four hours at 2amps/13.2v restored the charge. Two days later: back down to ~85% . . . repeat. (Note that Odyssey recommends 2amp maintenance at 13.5-13.8 volts which will NOT charge the battery, only maintain it. Charging occurs at 14.2-14.7v and "at least" 6 amps. Basically, after initially charging the battery aggressively (from 75%), and immediately recharging it from ~85% twice, it has held the charge for a week (well, 6 1/2 days) and happily gives the magic number: So, a couple things are to be known: 1) watch your charge voltages very carefully and follow Odyssey's amp/volt recommendations, 2) don't just put a new battery in without "conditioning" it if it is below 12.65v.

I thought all the Rosso Mandello were 2001 and all had the chin pad, external fuel pump, "short frame."

The fairing looks good! Whoever did it looks to be experienced - it's easy to distort the patterns on the odd contours. Will you apply a clear coat to harden the surface?

And certainly the only "2005" RM in existence . . .

Ken, where did your CO end up set?

Looking fantastic! (BTW, if your rear fluid is that low the pads are probably very thin.)

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