docc

I just retired a PC545 dated 12/2005. It was in the Sport 5 years, then in "swampee," the Cub Cadet garden tractor for 4 more (9 years of service: not bad!). Two other common sticking points in the V11 charging system: 1) inspect the 30 amp regulator fuse for melting or burned/charred blades/connectors, 2) remove the alternator cover, lie under the front of the motor and carefully inspect the two yellow wires leaving the stator as well as the flinky bullet connectors near or behind the oil cooler.

Where is that, exactly?

The Workshop Manual instructs to test the TPS potentiometer with "a tester" for the 150mV setting. The idle is then set at degrees opening with the computer interface (guzzidiag etc.). I presume the "tester" is simply a voltmeter. I do not see that the fully closed position is to be read by the ECU/interface, but only in mV.

There is hunting. And then there is hunting for the extremely rare and elusive -like the unicorn. But in this case, we do know there [were] some 600 unicorns out there. Somewhere . . .

I don't care who ya are - that's funny.

Fabulous! (Where are these breweries?)

After a couple attempts at bogus cables, we're hoping to get this sorted soon. Having been back and forth through this thread several times, I am still a little uneasy about the drivers for Mac OS X Mavericks (?) (I attempted a driver download for an ELM 327 interface and it locked my Mac - **uncomfortable!** . . . I thought the worst thing could be my Sport would run funky, but nooooo . . .)

I'm not sure the lower makes sense to me . . . now, a CF alternator cover, well that would be something . . .

Back in the day someone suggested the latch spring and the spring on the fast idle cable got mixed up and both work better reversed . . .

By all means, let's find a way to increase the visibility of G-B tuning parts for the V!!

That is interesting news! I did not see any pictures of their adapter - give us a complete rundown!!

Fast forward some years and you may have her back . . .

Hi, Saxman! Welcome to the forum - you're in the right place to enjoy your Ballabio! Join in this thread on the "bottom cowl:" V11 Chin Spoiler Search

Removing the rear wheel? What an opportunity for bonding! Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist

Seems there would be nothing to hold the engine from tipping downward. I suppose you could strap it to the spine above. Your picture does not show the engine tipped down at the rear, bringing the spine upward by loosening the forward mounts. I had thought this to be the action of the "crabbing."

The Buell lens(es) are an inner amber and smoked outer that screw directly to the existing body. waspp has a post here that shows the part numbers. My local (former?) Buell dealer is happy to send them to me. Apparently mine wriggle loose and go missing from time to time . . .

Just be aware that Crabbing the Spine Frame is a Pete Roper technique, often imitated, and (for safety's sake) should only be performed with the assistance of Colin, the rubber chicken, or one his brethren. Digitally remastered sketch here. Looking at the (low res) photo a couple posts down, I see the left porkchop is still in place. I have no idea why. Pete posted it's easiest to take them off. Just be sure to note the depth of the mounting pins before they are in the parts tray.

Maybe some smoked signal lenses from the Buell parts bin? Ever on into the darkness . . .

I been tellin' ya - you'd fit right in at the South'n Spine Raid!

(Not to hijack the thread, I hope) Back is sealed, fill tube on right, reservoir appears to be about 1" x 4". Something heavier than motor oil?

I've always used my Motion Pro mercury sticks, but sometimes think about putting this ALFA Romeo synch tool into service. The tubes are about 50 cm, so I'm rather sure it would require mercury.

motowfo and I balanced his Coppa with the TwinMax then put my mercury sticks on it and found it was perfect.

The wheel motion / play is normal. What is not normal is if the noise/feel has changed suddenly. Check for slop in the U-joints of the drive shaft, inspect the wheel bearings (especially the rear), that all of the engine/chassis mounting bolts are present and accounted for, look at the two bushings of the "torque reaction rod" above the rear drive.

I never could find my bad TPS watching for millivoltage jumps, but when testing resistance across the TPS leads, there was a distinct *jump* - new TPS: hiccup solved.