gstallons

Disconnect this wiring to see if the brake light goes out . You will make sure you are going in the right direction . I will try to see how mine works in the A.M. and let you know

Are we all card carrying members of the Old Farts Club ? I remember when thinking 60 yr olds were ready for the junkyard .

I have an Accel crimp tool if you want to borrow to crimp them . It does perfect .

do what you gotta do ! Do you go to a chiro ? Start . Talk to him/her about things and get recommendations ! I have gone to a chiro since I was born , w/o one I would not be able to move . Until I get them replaced I get Cortisone shots in my knees every 91 days . I know what pain feels like . Start working out , lose weight ( if you need to ) and get a positive attitude . As far as the modifications , I hope others will jump in on this .

We've got a meth-head so screwed up , he stole all the wrought iron fences around the ( extremely old ) family graveyards around here .

I am sure he got $10 for it !

IF the bike has proper characteristics cold , such as idle , rev & return to idle , I think you cane rule out air boots . With that being said , examine them and the throttle bodies to verify everything is good. Now , this does this rev business when hot . Look down at the throttle cable to make sure it and the TB are at idle and they are ok . Play with them with a dead engine , sitting still so you will know how to manipulate them to be sure the TBs are not hanging up . Good luck and keep us posted !

I think you just remove the assembly ? This was some X ago . It can't be too difficult , I did it . Look at your parts diagrams then order the o-rings & superbad valve cover gaskets . MG Cycle is supposed to be the vendor for these . Get the o-rings from them too . Adjust the valves to taste and have fun ! Trust me 0.002'' isn't going to throw the Earth off it's axis .

Good . Put on some Steppenwolf and go !

Did you get everything lined out and fix your bike ?

Were you able to remove the screw from the throttle body ?

Try it like it is . I didn't notice much .

Hey , knowing is better than thinking . To the best of my knowledge , all this was the result of RFI from solid core wires . They tore UP AM radio and manufacturers started using resistor caps , spark plugs and plug wires .

At least you looked !

Do yourself a favor and look on the Odyssey website and see what type charger they recommend . These batteries use a different charger .

I like that !

Aluminum for a bolt ? stupid .BMW has them all over their automobile engines . If I am going to pare weight , I would lose 40lbs. instead of something this stupid .

You don't forgive that "that's just business" stuff . NEVER

Any plug wire with screw in resistor caps will have solid core wire . If you want to prove it , remove the cap and look into the center of the plug wire . You are going to see copper strands. Also , there is no need to run a resistor cap on non-solid filament wires .

I hope it works well for you . AGM batteries need AGM chargers .

To extend the Buell subject . I rode ONE a loooong time ago and I can't remember the model . White paint w/what I would describe a light purple exhaust . I rode it about 10 miles , stopping twice to get off and verify it had a H/D engine . This thing was PERFECT !

Shooting from the hip , I think it is 0.010'' . and , yes it is critical . When you do check this , make sure the tooth you are going to use to set the air gap is in the center of the hole .

You know the other side is screwed up too . Take it apart and do it right . You don't want to ride 45 miles and ruin a new riding boot on this account .

Seth , the leaking o-ring(s) can be accessed after removing the rocker arm assy . Look at a parts diagram and see what you need . When I repaired mine , I just used OEM stuff .

You either have a bad connection or a bad battery . I assume you are testing at the battery terminals ? Loosen and retighten them and test again .