gstallons

I talked to my old electronics instructor / best friend Gerald Wells to verify this ...after one hour of revue and lecture , you get the explanation . We started with copper core " high tension " leads , narrow streets in Germany , burn time , then to spark plug electrode composition and so on .

That shi**y engine paint ain't exclusive to Scura models. I don't know if it was a primer , preparation or paint problem but it sure looks crummy . You can do a search ( this site ) to see how to correctly remedy this paint problem ... I do remember someone using H/D crinkle finish black to match the color & texture .

A spark plug wire this short will not give you the necessary resistance to serve it's purpose. This R will keep the arc time minimal to reduce wear on the center / ground electrodes on your spark plug.

Uh.....you are not supposed to ask this question .

This is a subjective # but around 5k ohms per ft. is normal for ( as we know them ) spark plug wires . You will be looking for resistance and not infinity or open .

Check them w/a DVOM to see .

Your post says 5 meg ohm , do you mean 5 k ohm ?

Docc, that type of nut is called a tinnerman (sp) nut . I will check to see if IU have something and will let u know !

Swap the injectors from one side to the other and see what happens . If the heat travels then the injector is not good. Send them to www.lindertech.com for evaluation. They can test , contact you , clean and match them for flow to have you back in business !

Whew... MC5 for "Kick Out the Jams" and David Byrne for any Talking Heads song .

Things happen , that's why I recommended removing the oil pressure switch . This would allow the air to be purged from the oil circuit . This happened to a buddy's BMW 320i . It had sat for about a year and would not pick up oil until this switch was removed and the engine started .

Yep , make sure it slides in & out easily before installing it permanently .

Removing the oil pressure switch will allow the air to be purged from the oil circuit in the engine . This will ( if it works ) keep you from the work of removing the pan .

Remove the oil pressure switch and start the engine . Oil should PUMP out of the hole within 6 seconds . If it does it will spray out so watch where it is pointing . If it doesn't then it is time to go back into the engine , you may not have the gaskets indexed correctly with the parts .

The answer would be , NO .

That was the US Gov. pricing schedule you were looking at !

They are isolated from the vibration in the tank by rubber insulators mounting the tank to the frame. Level switches are mounted in engine oil pans , radiators and fuel tanks too. Vibration does not affect them either . The same ( different style ) level sensors work in dry solids such as ash , dust or other materials...

I thought someone had posted part #s for the turn signal lens on V11 bikes. I thought they fit Ducati , Buell or something. The only way they are available from MG is the entire assy. can anyone help ?

I don't know why it would not work . The one onmy bike has 85 mm openings on the tach / speedometer holes .

Do most / all level switches work like this ? We had one fail on a coolant level switch and shut down the powerplant . We had to run the engine on override until we figured out the problem . . On the sensor you describe , is the reed switch N.O. ( normally open ) or N.C. ( normally closed ) ? You can blab on this all you want because I am interested in the theory of operation of these level switches.

Is it a H-D or Russian copy of a BMW military bike ?

The fairing changes everything !

The LEDs will last forever and emit a better light .

Could you explain your last sentence a little more ?

Hey.....that looks good !