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Everything posted by gstallons
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re-balancing the crankshaft: down the rabbit hole, again?
gstallons replied to sp838's topic in Technical Topics
I do think it would be more economical to leave the c/shaft where it is and do the rods/pistons and live with the results . -
Uh....not quite. You can drop the oil pan & look in the oil pan . You might see a lot of metallic particles floating in the oil . If so , remove the rod caps ( after using a metal stamp to index them to each rod and direction) and look to see if the bearing and rod journal are o.k or not. How much you know or don't know will depend on your success . Be honest w/yourself and Google pictures of these terms , procedures and repairs to be aware of your situation and direction you need to take .
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- engine knock
- knock
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Whew......it sounds like you have a rod knocking ? What is your mechanical ability ? The oil pan needs to come off and inspect the lower end to verify. Do NOT run or ride this until you verify this noise !
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- engine knock
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Yes....here it is called welding a 'stringer' bead inside the circumference of the cup and allowing it to cool. It will usually fall out.
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I've heard that before......
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Things must be different in New Zealand than the United States ? Here I ride meeting all kinds of distracted nuts and maniacs . They keep me distracted from worrying about tire problems .
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I have the Alpina tubeless wheels on my bike.... WOW ! expensive ? Outrageous ! Righteous ? Off the charts ! Will the tires go flat immediately when punctured ? Yes , so will my car ,truck , SUV .
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I had my tail section covered with this and I AM VERY SATISFIED ...
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Please refresh my memory... What has been done to the c/shaft , connecting rods and bearings ?
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The bottom pic looks like the scooter on my Quadrophenia CD cover .
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Why did you do this work ? Can you post pictures of the damaged or won parts ? Do you have pars diagrams to see if there are any missing or incorrectly installed parts ?
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www.uniquehydrographics.com can do a CF decal to anything within reason . I have used him in the past and the work is great ! For parts you cannot buy or doing it on a budget , this is the place !
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She finally arrived (introduction and some questions)
gstallons replied to Midle Age Warrior's topic in Technical Topics
If you don't have or can't find one add a test light to the circuit. Ground the test light to the same ground as the dvom . Check the resistance of the test light. . Remember this value . Touch the tip of the test light to the circuit being tested w/the dvom probe piggy-backed to the point of the test light. Your value should be the sum of the original value plus the test light value . Doing this will test the circuit's ability to carry a load . If there is a bad connection or a bad component this will prove it's integrity or lack of . -
Uhhhh.....that would be a small amen . Don't ask me either .
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She finally arrived (introduction and some questions)
gstallons replied to Midle Age Warrior's topic in Technical Topics
If you own one , use an analog volt / ohm meter and check these same circuits. If you come up w / similar readings . these circuits are good . -
Preemptive Shift Return Spring and Pawl Arm Replacement
gstallons replied to sp838's topic in Technical Topics
Do you have this nut on backwards ?- 48 replies
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- false neutrals
- gearbox
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Jaap, were you given visitation rights ?
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Sorry to hear . Hope it didn't cost too much . Is it back together and running smooth ?
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Yes...it will be up to the owner to decide how to procure the " stuff " that goes in them .
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Preemptive Shift Return Spring and Pawl Arm Replacement
gstallons replied to sp838's topic in Technical Topics
I would get the Redline oil , change the fluid , do the kit and lube the shift shaft pivot bolt . Don't forget the nut on the inside is a jam nut . The frame is threaded too.- 48 replies
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- false neutrals
- gearbox
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Use sandpaper or ScotchBrite to clean everything up and then remove all trash w/BrakeKleen . If it then fits o.k. use anti-seize on the mating surfaces so nothing will rust .
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You could purchase a "noid light" at a good atuo parts store or a tool truck. You will need the Bosch style noid light . It plugs into the harness connector and will flash as you are cranking the engine . If it does you need to look at the injectors . www.lindertech.com will be the shop you send both injectors to for rebuild and they will fix you up !
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Call Joe Eish @ Eish Motorcycles. 330-738-3944 . See if he has the crank sensor . If you are a MGNOC member you will get a discount. If it IS leaking ( make very sure ) from the plastic cover you can't do much for it.
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when you get the fuel pump problem fixed , purchase an engine oil dye and a UV light to test for the exact leak spot (s) . You can purchase the fluid at a good parts store and Fluke makes a good ( RLD 2 ) UV light to find the leak .
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The TPS or throttle position sensor is a simple device . Google " testing a potentiometer " . It will help you to perform this operation with confidence. You will need a GOOD DVOM , test leads that will probe connectors and an understanding of how to use it . p.s. this will be easier than you can imagine !