gstallons

Something to distract you............. Please garnish your cafe racer with something like this when you finish. http://www.youtube.c...eos=V0Koub2dKYI

Does your bike have Ohlins (gold anodize) or Marzocchi (black anodize) forks?

Anything with a generator is a "loop frame", after that was the "Tonti", then came the "spine frame". To my knowledge the V11 is an example of the "spine frame". Any one else want to help on this?

Here is a link that will help interpret bearing part #s, prefix and suffix characters. Keep in mind that these explanations might not be the same for ALL bearing manufacturers. http://www.tec.nsk.com/Handbook.asp?menu=5,0,0,0&PageID=/BasicDimensionsAndPartNumbering/BearingNumbers1.html

Do yourself a huge favor and drain the rear end and gearbox both to see which component is broke. You would hate to work on one and find the other is the culprit.

Somewhere in my clutter, I own a BCA Bearing Specification catalog. When I find it I will post my findings. p.s. thank you docc for the ?

Where did you purchase the body work ?

If it is like mine, it is a braided wire shielding.I don't knowwhere (Guzzi probably) to purchase it. Is there a dealer near you?

12 mm is not much different from 1/2". 1/2" is 12.7 mm. What do you want to do? 1/2" fuel line is available from good auto parts supply stores.

If no one comes up w/anything, take the bike by a paint shop and see if they can match the color. Have them look at the area between the tank/seat are so the paint will not be faded.

Clean the rotor mounting surfaces prior to installation. When you install these rotors be SURE to tighten them in a criss-cross pattern and torque them to the proper value while doing this.

Make sure you ar esatisfied with the country of origin on the outside of the box......

The fluid is hygroscopic (attracts and accepts) moisture. Use DOT 4 fluid. The hoses should be fine as long as the exterior looks good. If you do not have braided steel lines and don't mind the $ get them.

David, Sorry to hear about "Christine".... Are there any priests in the area that perform excorcism on inanimate objects ? The white sludge is what happens when oil/moisture combine in an engine. Sometimes riding habits contribute to this. You do not start the bike and let it idle for a while and shut it off? What type of crankcase vent system is on the Griso? As far as the loose cam housing capscrew goes , tighten every bolt you come in contact with. The stripped cover bolt will have to be repaired with a "Heli-coil" thread repair. Snap-On or any tool vendor sells a smaller plier to remove the spark plug boot. You can use a silicone-dialectric grease on the spark plug boot to make it easier to remove the next time.

If you think it is the PowerCommander, unplug it and hook it up w/out the PC in the circuit and see if it starts. Same goes for any driveability concerns.

For everyone's benefit ; can anyone state the proper spacer length ? Also, the incorrect spacer length was? Also,the 30 lb. figure was just number.I didn't recommend tightneing it any less than factory recommendations. I was trying to state that any (reasonable) torque is not going to be a factor on the side (pulling together or pushing apart) load of any roller bearing.

The amount of torque applied to the axle nut will have NO affect on the axial load of the bearing. The bearing spacer will keep the bearings seperated a predetermined distance. This distance should be the same or more than the distance between the bearing housing bore depths. You could apply 10ft.lb. or110ft.lb. of torque and it will not wear out the bearings.

(d) for me. I can live with a little noise.

Do you know how to mount a dial indicator to check rotor parallelism? If it is out, you might have to replace it.

Drop the big $$$$$ and get Mistral or M4....

Probably the only repair is; to put a spring every 90 or 120 degrees around the middle of the seperator plate and splined hub . this would keep it from "flopping" around between the friction discs to stop the bittersweet symphony you hear. When this repair fell out you would have more troubles.

I would be tempted to just check the pressure with a manual gauge occasionally and rely on the light.

Pull the caliper. It's not that tough. Then you can see what is causing the removal problem.......... p.s. ANY rubber components around,in or on this brake caliper will not tolerate any petroleum products. If you do use a penetrant or lubricant wash it off with BrakeKleen .

I don''t think you could do this "safely". If you were going to do this, you would use a rheostat, not a potentiometer in series with the signal return wire or in series with the voltage reference signal.

Normal. That is not quite the word but is one that works. As RH said, when it stops making these rackets you need to worry!