Kiwi_Roy

You mentioned back a page that when you put the bike on it's side it would stall, I misread that as leaning over. Did you mean "On The side stand?" If the Neutral light is flickering and the side stand is deployed of course it will stall because the ECU is loosing power. I suspect you have a loose wire or the Neutral switch is sizzling away, it shouldn't be too hard to track down. You just have to decide weather to fix it, ignore it or bypass it

It's easy to check your TPS, just find the terminal that's connected to the slider and monitor that to chassis with a meter It should ramp smoothly from low millivolts to about 4-1/2 Volts as you twist the throttle. Use the Volt range on your meter, actually an old analog meter works best for this.

I don't think that model has a tipover switch but it certainly seems like loss of power. To confirm that can you wire a small lamp to Fuse 8 and Chassis, install it semi permanent so it's ready if it cuts out again any 12V lamp will do. Fuse 8 is the last point before the power goes into the ECU relay after half the flakey wiring, knowing if that's alive is a great troubleshooting aid.

If the engine is cutting out for no reason it might be the side-stand switch is faulty. to check this pull out relay No 3 and short out between relay pins 30 and 87, this will make sure the relay cannot make the engine stall Relay no 3 ----- 30 around ----- 87 | | | 85, 87a, 86

I or J To work on the switch safely disconnect the battery negative lead The switch unplugs just under the tank but I usually work on it in-situ

As Chuck mentioned earlier, if there's no power at relay 3/30 with the key turned On suspect the wire may have broken off the ignition switch. The switch is very easy to remove it's held on by 2 Phillips screws up from below, leave the lock in place. The back unclips and the white switch plate tilts out when you release the clip. After a few years the grease dries out and becomes hard holding the tension off the contacts Wipe out the old grease and replace with fresh Vaseline Fasten the wires to the back cover so they don't flex at the solder joints or they will become brittle and snap. The regulator needs to be well grounded from the case to chassis because all the current passes back that way, When it's new the bracket may be well grounded but it deteriorates with age, I always suggest a 6" wire from the case to a timing cover screw.

LowRyter, It's hard to determine from the symptoms you describe whether you have an electrical problem or just a flat battery I suggest you give it a charge, scrape the posts and apply some Vaseline. With a meter or test-light look for 12 Volts in the relay sockets pin 30, if you pull the relays out one at the time each 30 terminal should be alive, for relay 3 you will need the key On Relay 3 is the most likely to give you problems, I suggest you short it out by wrapping a strand of fine wire around the 30 & 87 pins Have someone watch the tail-light as you try to start, it should stay On Report Back

The white wire is the charge light, ground it and the light comes on, hence the flicker if it gets wet It could also be tracking across at another wet spot

The Charge and Oil pressure lights have 12 Volts on one pin and the other is pulled to ground to turn the lamp On This is probably a case of the wet causing the bulb to ground out, the same thing will happen to the oil pressure light if you let the switch insulator get too dirty in the wet. This is particularly noticeable with LED lamps as they need so little current to turn on.

Or bed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pressureangle said "Wow last post 10 years ago" Raz, the guy who started that thread in 2008 kindly sent me his map which he developed for the MyECU for his bike with the same pipes as mine, It ran nicely on my bike, in fact it was still in the bike when I sold it. I called it my Razmap The MyECU came as a kitset of individual parts you had to solder together long before Guzzidiag was available, the Map was loaded using a laptop with a serial port (before USBs), I believe it currently uses Bluetooth from an Android device which also gives you a handy window into the ECU. Cliff did a great job, his site has a good tutorial on how it works. www.myecu.biz

Does/did your bike come with an electric petcock? Just trying to figure out which of Carl's schematics to use the 1999 or 2004 Please give a better description of the Start Button symptom A small lamp wired from the petcock fuse (or relay 4 pin 87) to chassis will be a big help in figuring out the problem. The side-stand relay No 3 dropping out would effect your 1 & 2 Do you still have the stand cutout? Do you have some spare relays? Meanwhile poke something tiny into each of the relay sockets to make sure the connectors are secure and not pushing out the back.

Sorry I got all messed up with Tapatalk this morning on the train. There are many different problems with the starter, most of them easily fixed Does it always fail or just intermittently? Do you hear anything like a quiet click from the relay? - "Startus Interuptus" A loud clack from the solenoid but no turning? - possibly bad battery or battery connections or ground connection or loose magnets? Nothing at all? - Probably the bullet connectors as Docc mentioned Around 2003 they changed the solenoid wiring to feed the Start Relay pin 30 through the ignition switch (before that pin 30 was fed from a fuse direct from the battery), this is the main cause of "Startus Interuptus" for all the later model Guzzis right up to the present day. The starter solenoid draws 40 - 50 Amps while it is engaging the gear or at least it would like to, if there is too much resistance in the switch it will not engage, all you hear is the relay clicking and perhaps a bit of a grunt from the solenoid, you will read about the "Startus Interuptus Fix" which is basically wiring it back to direct from the battery. It's very easy to clean the switch, it's held onto the key with 2 Phillips screws from underneath, for safety disconnect the battery negative lead, remove the Phillips screws and switch, remove the back, release the odd clip and tilt out the white switch plate, wipe off all the old grease and replace it with Vaseline. When you reattach the back fix the wires so they don't bend where they are soldered to the white plate or they will snap off. I haven't experienced loose magnets but I think that would cause it to always fail A bad battery or connections would show up at the tail light, it should stay nice and bright when you press start, it will dim a little say to about 80%

Seen on the other forum https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2Z6w_rBsf0

I think you were the first correct answer.. No the resistance will just tell you if it’s shorted or open. The sensors are very simple, just a coil of wire wound over a small magnet, as the teeth of the wheel pass it creates a ripple in the magnetic field generating an AC signal in the coil. I measure the gap by sticking a blob of JBQuick on the tip of the sensor, bolt it in until set then take it out and measure, it won’t stick to the oily phonic wheel. Don't pay $200 for the part when it breaks I suggest you have one on hand from the source Antmanbee gave me. http://www.miparts.com/detail/rpm-sensor-engine-management_15598#.WsC7rSMZNBz http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19514&page=2

I’d love to roll up for Sunday coffee on one of those 500 singles Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Most of the people in BC live near the border, it's not a big deal to slip across and take advantage of the lower postal rates and skip customs duty. There are several companies in Blaine that set up business especially. At the Border Mail is one I use because if there's a lineup I can walk across, yes I do check in

The poster did say he has a dedacated headlight circuit so little Voltage drop in the original headlight wires. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m not coming over there, you come here LOL Kiwi_roy Griso 1100, 72 Eldorado Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think drilling s 3/8 hole in each puck gives it more travel so to speak, instead of squishing to fill the available space it has somewhere to go. I guess someone would have to try it out with a large torque wrench to prove it one way or another, see how much travel is available without/with holes. I do know the first ride on my Griso made me think there was something seriously wrong when compared to the VII, you don't ride that at walking speed without feathering the clutch.

I hate it when I come back to my bike and theres naked women draped all over it. I may have to get a different brand.

I must have read the same article on drilling the pucks, I did mine early on, 5 years and about 30k later they still looked fine. Rubber is non compressible

Bbolasaz, I think you summarized both systems very well. My 2001 of course had the early wiring and never suffered from Startus Interuptus but I could never get the regulator to work reliably until I fitted an after market regulator without the Voltage sense. What I would suggest with the 2004 wiring would be to feed the Start relay 30 from the headlight 30 next door, this would give improved starting as Fuse 5 feeds the headlight relay direct from the batery, not through the switch. Then to deal with the headlight relay The headlight relay coil 85 & 86 could then be wired between the ignition switch and the solenoid coil so when the key is turned on the relay closes, the 100 mA the coil draws would have no effect on the solenoid. When the start button is pressed the start relay puts 12 Volts onto the solenoid so now it bangs in. The headlight relay coil has 12 Volts at both ends so it drops out until cranking is over. Note: none of the relay Normally closed contacts are used, these are not rated as highly as the Normally Open ones, I have always suspected they are the main cause of erratic voltage reference on the earlier bikes. BTW I first became aware of the ignition switch problem when my bike started to run really rough, when I measured the switch it was over 18 Ohms, a 2004 would have long quit cranking at

Bbolesaz, Do you think the later wire with the start relay through the switch is more reliable? I always felt the earlier wiring was better for starting, for Voltage regulation not so much. I don't want to suggest something weird.

Marty, that 0.3 Ohms you read is the two coils to chassis a 1.05 Ohm direct to chassis and 0.25 in series with the starter winding to chassis. Where we get all the problems is from battery + to the relay terminal 30, that goes through the ignition switch on your 04, if you clean the switch every year or so it should be ok. I will sketch out how you can re-wire the later bike relays to avoid the ignition switch