Kiwi_Roy

I have never bothered but you can buy wire that is tin plated, they use it on boats a lot so a marine store is a likely source. I think it would stand up to the conditions in the alternator better, Docc, can you give us the model No of your regulator so I can look up the connection, there might be something in the wiring instructions that pops out. Roy

The original Ducati Energias drew about 15 milliamps from the reference circuit (headlight) but when the key is off it doesn't draw anything. My aftermarket direct connect regulator from Electrosport drew 0.3 milliamps all the time On or Off It should not be possible to get current back flowing from the battery to the yellow wires.

Replacing the wires is dead simple but you might need a 40 Watt iron, one with a pencil bit may not have quite enough heat A soldering gun would have plenty of heat or something like a Weller thermostatically controlled one, there's certainly no nend to replace the stator just because the wires are shot. Out of interest here is the stator from my V7 Special

They are referring to the insulation resistance 10 MΩ is what you can expect with new wiring but even 0.5 MΩ is perfectly adequate. We don't normally bother with measuring the insulation resistance for 12V wiring but its standard practice for mains wiring its done at a DC Voltage if I recall correctly 1.5 x normal Voltage so it requires a special meter commonly referred to as a Megger, not just a normal multimeter. If you use new copper wire you will find it solders well to the existing coils.

My VII Sport did the same thing, the wire was so corroded I couldn't re-solder it so I simply replaced it with new yellow wires.

The sensor gap should be between 0.6 and 1.2mm. Its really hard to measure in situ, this is how I do mine. Stick a small blob of JB Kwik on the tip and bolt it in place, don't turn the motor. Allow time for it to set up, pull the sensor out again and measure the thickness of the epoxy. As for making the sensor oil tight, i'm convinced the oil leaks through the sensor not around it. I took to carrying a spare sensor in the Monkey Paw trap there's absolutely nothing you can do on the road if the sensor fails open. I don't have a VII any more but I have a two Valve Griso, it can be just as frustrating. I'm pleased to see some of you are still using the Go Winkie as Docc calls it to instantly troubleshoot a bad contact in the wiring to the ECU relay, I remember finding mine at about half brightness when the stand switch was acting up. Cheers Roy

You must put those FIAMMS horizontal, any sort of an angle and water gets trapped rusting away the diaphragm When wiring them use something like #16 direct from the battery with a relay, horns are like high quality speakers they benefit from robust wiring. And last of all do not mount them to a rigid surface or it damps the noise out, the little metal plate they ship with them has a purpose. They look like they are fixed to the Aluminium plate but if you look closely you will see the thin steel plate below.

Yes, pull both plug caps With your multimeter measure the resistance from each plug cap in turn, it should measure the same resistance typically about 8,000 Ohms, same on both sides. This is a combination of cap, lead and coil in series. Sometimes Guzzi have used that nasty carbon core lead, it can break contact and cause arcing inside the cable usually misses under acceleration because it's harder for the spark to jump the gap under pressure. Replace with copper core. BTW you should not have carbon lead in series with a resistor cap and xxxR resistor plugs, you only need one resistor.

Combination of heavy rain and dirt or road salt is enough to make the switch track across the insulator, try wiping it with a rag. WD40 is good for this as well.

I have installed a gauge on a VII Sport, its tied in at the same point as the pressure switch and mounted on the steering damper bracket, yes the pressure is as you say/ I also have a gauge on my 72 Eldorado, it's tapped into the RH head oil feed and shows similar pressure when cold but drops down to 10 PSI at hot idle

We are talking VII? no, just the ground for the flasher. Some of the more modern Guzzis don't have a flasher at all instead they have 4 dedicated outputs from the dash. I helped a guy with a Griso, his LEDs were still glowing even with the key out and he could measure 8 Volts across the lamp. I have a Griso so I checked into it, I don't have LED lamps but I stuck a couple in to try. It turns out that the dash checks for a burnt out lamp, it tries to pull the output toward +12V to the tune of 40 microamps even when the ignition is off. If the key is turned On and the output goes higher than 3.2 Volts which it will do if a lamp is burnt out the dash displays a picture of a lamp and the red triangle is illuminated. Some LEDs have a high forward bias that may cause the alarm, the Griso owner measured 8 Volts, this probably has several elements in series, The LEDs I have had 19 elements in parallel and the forward bias was only 1.97 Volts and operated without a problem. Simply adding a 1K 1/4 Watt resistor across the lamp is enough to keep the Voltage down when not operating, the resistor should ideally be at the end of line across the lamp. Soldered across the lamp holder is probably the best you can do. The V7 range have a different arrangement based on measuring the lamp current, i'm guessing you need a shunt resistor to run LEDs in this bike.

Perhaps just mount a quick connect in the bottom of the tank, there's really no need to shut the fuel off on a FI bike. Do you have an in tank or outside fuel pump? Personally I never had a problem with the Electric Petcock.

No resistors needed but you will need a 3 wire flasher The 2 wire flashers used with incandescent lamps are current actuated they work in series with the high lamp current. The 3 wire LED flashers are more of a Voltage device, they use the Voltage to chassis to activate the relay.

I think you will need to set it for i pulse per 2 revolutions, I assume you will be picking up the signal from just one coil.The last setting. If you are taking pulses from the ECU its anyones guess. BTW I think a common speedo cabe ratio is 1000 turns per mile

I'm trying to grasp the concept of a speedometer having a set frequency, does not compute.

Heres a couple of pictures of a solenoid, a Bosch in this case but the Valeo or the Chinese one is similar. Note how the long tail has 2 wires Someone came along and interrupted me in the middle of counting turns, I believe both coils were probably 300 turns. The heavy gauge coil is on the bottom so it's thicker and heavier for the same number of turns. Anyone care to check my counting? I only have a British Standard Wire Gauge from my days as an apprentice.

Heres a diagram I did years ago when I had a 2001 VII Sport The red dashed line shows how a 2001 VII Sport was wired from the battery, through a fuse then direct to the 30 terminal of the start relay. that bike never suffered from Startus Interruptus even when the ignition switch was so bad it started dropping out the ECU. Only 100 milliamps ran through the switch. You can check this on Carl Allison"s 1999 VII Sport But then along came your bike in 2004 and for some reason the factory ran the wire up to the Ignition switch and back, big mistake, look at those wimpy wires going from the connector up at the front of the tank to and from the switch this was enough to seriously restrict the current. Check this on Carl's 2004 VII Sport Catalytic The Timing Diagram shows the magnitude of the current through various parts of the starter, the narrow pulse at the left is only 15 - 100 milliseconds wide, the more current you can cram into the coil the better. Actually I have a theory - The factory don't know how much current the solenoids draw. If you take your trusty multimeter and place it in series with the solenoid it will tell you around 10 Amps because the high current pulse is so quick the meter is unable to capture it. So of course Luigi allows a little bit of a margin and uses a 15 Amp fuse. This is confirmed by all the Guzzi schematics that only show one coil in the solenoid. Obviously the factory are puzzled by this, if you look at a modern diagram they don't even show one coil but something like a black hole. If you take the time to measure the solenoid coil you will find measuring from the spade connector to chassis it measures less than 1/4 Ohm. One coil measures just one 1 Ohm to chassis but the other coil in series with the motor is only a fraction of that. All Guzzi starters are similar, doesn't matter what brand you pick. The second coil that guzzi chose to ignore is over 4 x as strong magnetically as the one they provide for. You don't have to re-wire the bike but you will need to keep the ignition switch in top shape. Later model Guzzi's like a Norge also run through the ignition switch but they have the switch mounted to the chassis so the wires are more robust. The Breva is another bike that seems to suffer, the fix there is just to provide a direct feed bypassing the ignition switch, It doesn't change the interlock because the relay coil feed is still switched. Relaying signals from one circuit to another is what relays are good at. Moto Guzzi - making Electricians out of riders since 1921

It could be your solenoid was jamming Chuck, in that case the fuse would have to take 40 Amps on a sustained basis. I hope you upgraded the fuse to a 20 Amp one If the solenoid is unable to slide the gear into mesh and close the main contact a 15 Amp fuse will blow in less than 1 second You can check this out for yourself by taking the large cable off the solenoid, this simulates the main contact not closing, even though the solenoid pulls into place the second high current coil stays in circuit. Note: its not just Valeo starters this applies to, The old Bosch, and the new Chinese starters currently used by the factory also have two coils Im willing to bet the ones sold on the internet also have the same 2 coil arrangement. I do wish Guzzi would show this on their diagrams.

The most common problem with Guzzi starters is lack of current for the solenoid, it would like to draw between 40 and 50 Amps.To get this current you need almost zero resistance. The way to test your starter is to take a wire from the solenoid and touch it on the battery, if it responds to that then its another fault. A word of warning, make certain that the bike is in neutral or on the centre stand so it doesn't launch itself. See Stewgnu's post, thats typical of too much resistance the solenoid sits there drawing not quite enough to pull in 20+ Amps The easy way to get around this is to provide a direct feed to the starter relay, this will send up to 40 Amps to the solenoid guaranteeing it will pull in. Cleaning the ignition switch and sprucing up the relay socket may get you off the hook for a while.

I seem to recall the speedo needle on my Vll in the vicinity of 240 kph, is that even possible or am I dreaming?

It shows it that way in this early document 1989, https://dpguzzi.com/efiman.pdf This is a great read if you want a basic understanding of EFI Connected to the manifold it would constantly be changing the injector pressure, I imagine it would put a lot more strain on the regulator and probably made it tricky to calculate the Mapdirect As it runs now the injectors run under choked flow conditions, the manifold pressure has no direct effect on the injector flow rate, thats a function of the ECU calculation. The ECU includes an Absolute Pressure transducer that signals so it can compensate for Altitude by changing the open time. Of course it also included revs, temperature, throttle position, battery Voltage and a few other parameters in the injector time setting (just not by tweaking the supply pressure)

I use a range of techniques actually, first of all I try to avoid having to put my feet down, so I time it to catch the green, hold the clutch in for a short light, try not to stop directly behind the vehicle in front so I don't end up the meat in a sandwich and turn the motor off for a long light, it also varies depending on what bike I'm riding. Luckily I don't have to negotiate busy traffic on a daiiy basis or l would probably give up riding. It's a good discussion, good to air different points of view.

In 2001 they had an electric petcock.

The riding schools teach you to sit with first gear engaged ready to drop the clutch Lately I have been stopping the engine with the kill switch then turning it back on, a quick jab on the starter button and I'm away.

It can drop right down to 10 PSI or less while idling hot but should sit around 60 at 2,000 revs. I had a gauge mounted on the steering damper bracket, you can hard pipe it there with copper. You also get full pressure from either of the head oil lines. What really gets your attention is the pressure dropping to zero under acceleration if you let the level get too low on the dipstick. If you don't run a Roper plate you must have a gauge IMHO, the light would likely not catch that event like a gauge.