LowRyter

Mate I had the same problem 12mths ago just take the unit to a specialist and get them to strip it and clean and lub it before it shits it self completely. wait? did you have the speedo serviced or the cable?

so what is this thread about?

the solution for the green one was to pressure feed the fluid from the bleeder. be sure to catch the fluid from the reservoir.

mine is still jumping all over. I did lube and it just ran out the bottom. the cable seemed pretty free when I spun it from the transmission side. but this makes me think the cable is the problem. Mine won't set back to zero when sitting still, it will stick at 20 or so, and by blipping the throttle it shakes down to zero. I wonder why the replacement you purchased didn't fit?

I think Carl Allison rebuilt a smashed V11 using a 1100 spine frame. He might have some insight.

If you're talking about rotating the engine to TDC, I just put the bike in like 3rd gear and turn the back wheel. Not too bad with the plugs out. I guess if you didn't have a rear wheel stand that wouldn't work so well. well that's what I do on the EV, but it has a center stand. I am sure bigg ass socket is cheaper than a shop stand.....I was looking through my tool box when I posted. Chuck knows I am a tightwad......BTW, the green bike just pulled 16k miles.

so a 1 1/4 would be just a little too small to fit? oh no matter, my largest is 1 1/16. empties the hot water tank on the RV.

why? horsepower (and your right hand).

how does the ECU map go off? I thought once you have the right flah, you're good to go.

http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=1812 This is a Stucchi replacement. It's not an exact match.

I have the Guzzi Scura/ Cafe Sport carbon fiber bikini fairing on mine and noticed the windshield has stress cracks. All happened today (?). Anyway, crossing my fingers that MG has a replacement windshield for it. recommendations appreciated.

why can't someone press in new bushings? why is the whole piece junked?

hey FG- you ever do routine maintenance on a KTM, like change the oil? You might check on that. I have a buddy with a 990 Adventure and he gets charged 4-6 hrs labor for it. Apparently plenty of the mechanical & tupperware pieces that have to be tampered. BTW- the guy that owns it is an engineer by profession so I would assume he can accomplish routine maint (?). On the other hand you don't have to drop the pan like you do on a Guzzi....

maybe 105-110 with a large windsheild......120 stripped bike, face on the tank how fast will my V11 Sport go? 130?

I am interested in a factory tankbag and shop stand to work on the bike in the garage. needed for 2001 V11 sport. contact me through profile on this site (I ordered an after market tankbag but could not secure it and sent it back)

regarding oil changes for 2001 V11 sport. 20-50 is correct oil? the spark plug socket in the tool kit fits the filter cover? then good luck getting a wrench in there & getting the filter out? otherwise, drop the pan? Is there anyway to install a hose clamp w/o dropping the pan?

Chuck, thanks for the Harbor Freight idea. I'll have to pick one of those up. I am always working with aquarium tubing and jelly jars- even had turkey marinade syringe. Sorry that Rosie is given you a few problems. I am sure you'll get to the root since you're an ace wrench. I was lucky to find a fast green one. BTW- I just put a 1000 miles on the green bike and planning another 400 miles tomorrow. Oil looks good.

I reused the O ring after finding it on the floor. I am out an hour of shop time. Did you have a power bleeder?

point upwards? the bleeder is at the bottom on the caliper pointing at the ground.

well Docc, I screwed up royal. I was attempting to unbolt the caliper from the bracket and my near vision fooled me and I unscrewed the wrong bolts and took the caliper apart. DUH. Brake fluid everywhere. I got it back to together (one O ring I hope). But cannot get it pressure. I've been bleeding but no luck. bad to worse I am afraid.

well I just got the new pads, EBC HH, $45! No wonder they're worn out, I've seen postage stamps bigger than these little buggers.

that's how I normally do it. And sometimes I use one of the old pads to wedge the new ones apart when I reinstall the caliper to the disc & bracket. Hopefully a two piston set up will be easier that four pistons. (side to side vs side to side & front to back).

thanks

are there only the two allen bolts that attach the caliper to the bracket?

Thanks Michael, I'll do it next time. I just had a rear tire replaced unexpectedly on the road Friday. When changing it the mechanic noticed the brakes were shot, the inside pad has no material left. Unfortunately, there were no pads in stock. I am back home now and I am going on a 400 miles on Saturday and don't have the time for all that you suggest now. And since this full sports Dunlop Qualifier, I'll have the wheel off again replacing it in abouit 3000 miles. So it won't be long and I can grease it then. The tire that was punctured was new, so I believe the PO did all the required maintenance. I've ordered the pads and am hopeful to get them in time to make the ride. I don't want to run into snags, so I am asking for the quickest way for success. When I've replaced pads, I've always removed the caliper. I might be able to do it while the caliper is still attached per the instructions. BTW- there are only two allen head bolts that attach to the caliper to the bracket?