footgoose

Gosh Ewan, was it something I said? http://www.ebay.com/itm/222605924479?ul_noapp=true and http://www.ebay.com/itm/2002-Moto-Guzzi-V11-Le-Mans-Tenni/222605863907?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D45726%26meid%3Dab0879cbc0ed493097b6d365037df0b7%26pid%3D100010%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D222605924479&_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109

I'm sure I read your description somewhere using leverage with a piece of wood?? That's how I do it!! My tank does not get all that large when it's off. The bolt hole is usually only about 5mm off. I do have to remove the Simon Cowl or it scrapes hard against it. Last winter the tank was off and dry for 4 months, and it had shrunk back somewhat. The winter before I built a jig to store it on as if it were still mounted on a bike. Not much difference with or without the jig. I think 5mm long is it's 'happy place'. We'll see when I put it back on after being off 6 weeks.

The real disgrace is the continued use of Acerbis nylon for fuel tanks. The USA must be the largest consumer of all the marques and models that use them, and they can't or won't figure out a way to accommodate alcohol. And why there's still alcohol in our gas this day and age is just silly.

Today I actually made a little progress on an ongoing project with the Tenni. A couple months ago, I figured I'd better get the RAM clutch in, in place of the potentially problematic aluminum flywheel. So, with the aid of the forum, I went the "motor out" route, so I could strip and paint the block. Fast forward to today. Motor + paint + RAM + time = got it installed and off the floor... onto my recently purchased Harbor Freight bike lift. I picked up a used HF bike stand on CL and bolted to the lift. All I need now is a string of fancy lighting like Docc's. The paint I used is Dupli Color Hi Temp engine primer and Ford semi gloss black. It's a bit glossier than the frame black, but I didn't want it too flat. I hope the quality exceeds my expectations. The sump is not painted yet. I'll do that when it comes off for the Roper plate.

awesome. yet another use for a ratchet strap. getting up there with duct tape for utility.

that clip on arrangement is very unusual. I wonder what brand?

Docc, you have described the three alternatives much more accurately than me. I don't want to split hairs, esp curly ones, but what makes the last four models "nakeds" when an original V11 Sport had no wind protection at all, not even the bikini fairing on my Rosso? The Cafe Sport has essentially the same fairing as on my RM. I can assure you, that when the weather gets foul, except for the folks on a LeMans, we are all riding naked. It's just a model designation.

that looks just like my bike, except for all the pretty lights and organized parts. I just booked a room. Will drag my Suzuki buddy down with me (Bill, from last year) he had a blast. We'll get there Thurs this time. I'm hoping the Tenni will be a "Go", otherwise.... whatever's running.

this it? https://www.estatesale.com/sales/view/131242.html

Magnets! That wouldn't have occurred to me. But then, the extension spring didn't occur to me either. With the oem spring, there is quite a bit of pressure pushing the arm into where it needs to be. If I pursued another alternative to oem, I think I would look into another (better) torsion spring, something like these...https://www.mcmaster.com/#torsion-springs/=18qqre6

Locknuts for sure Docc. I got flex top lock nuts for high vibration. https://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-locknuts/=18qqep8 tell me about the nyloc. I haven't made a final assembly

I have had two 2002's. Both had the 16+mm arm boss. One spring broke at 10k mi. I fixed both. The "upgrade" springs I got from MGCycle in 2015 were exactly the same as what I took out of my bikes. I had also read here the incorrect 16mm boss was a "bad batch" sometime around 2002. My recommendation is, anyone with a 2002 needs to get in there and check that boss size. IMO the spring can not survive on the larger boss. If you think you're in the clear or know your boss size is the correct 15mm, you should still, always, carry an extra new spring. I would carry the roadside repair tool kit as well. For those not familiar, when the spring breaks, there is no warning. You are stuck in whatever gear you were in when it snapped.

KiwiRoy here's a pic of both springs in place Steve S - the reason I didn't hook it there is the extension spring coil I used would hit the back of the selector cog. I also thought about hooking the other end of the spring through a small hole drilled in the nearby casting ridge, but was worried about too much friction/wear with all the movement.

Beautiful countryside. Looks more like my neck of the woods. And a little blue Cobra.

I got some work done on the spring swap. Some of my pics didn't come out, so the preferred sequence will be messed up, but I will get some more taken when I take this apart again, prior to final assembly. there is a lot of thread showing because I am not using the final assembly lock nut just yet. You can see where I cut away the casting rib so the bolt on the arm will clear. I don't have a mill. I used a Roto Zip (Dremmel) there is just a light pre-load at this position. from the outside, this is the countersunk 8-32 s/s bolt, flush with the face. It's the small one, about 1/4" allen head this shows my "stack of stuff" on the bolts. I'll lay that out in the next post.

that's a good angle Scud. sound is great too. I got a little adrin spike when you passed the car. thanks

100,000 mi? maybe a little BPH?

Here is another view of the "Japanese" design. Mine is very much the same. another Japanese design photo. You can see that besides a simple assembly, they drilled out the spring catch on the pawl arm and used the hole for the bolt. (right end of spring) Just above that you can see they milled away a bit (my guess 1/8") of the casting ridge, so the bolt end does not hit it. On the left end of the spring, they drilled a hole (shudder!) through the cover plate, to anchor that end. I hate the idea of this hole but alternatives are few and not as strong imo. I'll document my progress. Suggestions welcome.

I posted this http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19827 There is another guy doing it as well. A link is in the above linked post. I am awaiting a 'pile of stuff' delivery to make one of these up. Should have it complete enough to post something in a few days. I have a prototype assembled, but wanted to get the 'end result' parts chosen before drilling a hole in my cover plate. Basically copying the photos from the Japanese mfg. They could not be reached. I will post the results in the above thread.

I change the filter with oil. 15+ inches long.. where do you put it? Seems well made. never mind, I'm too cheap

thanks for sorting that out Docc. Now seeing the zip tie has me thinking it has in deed, been modified. Maybe I dodged a bullet.

chirping.. like the old VW beetles?

the zip tie may not be factory but the 3 setup seems to be. Harpers has this for '99-'00. They have posted this fiche for several other years incorrectly.

10th is Y. The bike is out of his hands now. Build date is unavailable. I was considering it for purchase but I had some hesitation because of this and a couple other issues. I took some time and missed out on it. I should have acted quicker. Interesting difference. A carry over from the 1100 Sport I suppose.

the owner sent a photo and said this is factory. I looked up some fiche for early sports and they show 3 relays.